someone put out a video on rebuilding torqueflites.

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'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's Hookers on jack stands for 8 years in the driveway
'79 Maxivan 360 Offy Qjet Comp RV cam/rusting in the driveway.
93 D350 160HP Cummins Auto Dually Clubcab needs a injector pump
2005 Golden Couch Buick

I must have missed that one on YouTube.

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Joshua

There used to be a video tape you could buy.

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'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's Hookers on jack stands for 8 years in the driveway
'79 Maxivan 360 Offy Qjet Comp RV cam/rusting in the driveway.
93 D350 160HP Cummins Auto Dually Clubcab needs a injector pump
2005 Golden Couch Buick

Well, the transmission is all together except for the oil pan. after putting the shift kit in the 1977 vintage valve body I found it doesn't have part throttle kickdown which I want and it won't accept the part throttle kickdown parts from my '72 valve body. So I put the shift kit in the '72 valve body which took me about 3 hours as it had a sticky valve that required some finesse before it would move freely. Maybe the stuck valve is why the '72 trans ate it's second gear band? I even think all the valve body springs are in the right places! There are too many parts in these slush boxes and Torqueflites are supposed to be one of the easier transmissions to rebuild. Actually, if this had been a straight rebuild it would have taken quite a bit less time, but my trans now has 4-pinion planetaries and 4-disc clutches from a V8 trans (A998) along with the TransGo TF-2 reprogramming kit. We'll have to see how she performs with the 9.5" torque converter.

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Joshua

Rebuilding Automatic Transmissions is a BLACK ART...........

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

I don't believe that for a second.

What I do believe though is it can be a lot of work to do right and very easy to do wrong.

I spent quite a lot of time on my transmission. If I had to do this for a living I might starve if they all took this long. I put in an extra 3 hours just so I could have part-throttle kickdown.

All the pertinent clearances have been checked and are on the tight side of spec. The clutches, steels and second gear band are new. All the soft seals and many of the steel sealing rings are new. A few interlocking steel sealing rings were left alone.

I'm glad I bought the V8 core to upgrade my /6 trans. If I had bought just the hard parts needed I wouldn't have had the extra valve body and been without part-throttle kickdown.

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Joshua

That quiet little white Valiant is growing up so fast *tear*....

Its gonna be quick AND fast!!!!

Can't wait to see it run!

Go Josh!

~THOR~

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1984 D100 Shorty Custom
Certified Auto Appraiser - RevItUp Classic Appraisals
President - Cherry City Bombers CC
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

haha- my father once kicked my ass after learning from my mother that there was a bunch of metal in the dishwasher...




(valve cover, bellhousing and throw-out fork)

Using the kitchen in this manner is like camping. Leave the place in better shape than you found it.

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Joshua

Amen to that, I agree they usually have way too much end play. And too much end play drops hydraulic pressure since its a "controlled" leak that gets a little less controlled when the end play is big....

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Special tools special schmools!

Go redneck:



That's a 727, so it has multiple small springs instead of one big one like a 904. Don't know if that makes it easier or harder to compress with C-clamps.

I strongly recommend knocking together a tranny stand to aid assembly:








Removing the pump can be done with a 2x4 across the bellhousing and some threaded rod, nuts and washers (sorry, don't have a picture).

Putting the pump back IN without shaving a gasket is a lot easier if you warm the case to make it expand a bit and leave the pump cold:










Note the all-threads (or bolts with the heads cut off) to help align the pump housing to the case.

Vaseline on the seal helps too:




Scrounging core transmissions can pay off, too. When setting up the clutch packs, there are different thicknesses of snap-rings, and "wave" vs. flat snap-rings too:




Older T-flites used a flat ring in the front clutch pack, later ones used a wave ring to soften up the shifts. Needless to say, I like the flat snap-rings for a performance build.

Watch out for the interlocking oil seal rings, you have to hook the little tips together, but the material is very hard like iron piston rings and you can break them with rough handling:



There are other pictures at http://lonestar.texas.net/~sglacker/Trans_01_04/

if you find any of these helpful. As I said, its a 727 for a big-block, but there aren't that many differences.

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Thanks for the info, but the trans has been together for 3 days now. My end-play is right on the tight side of spec.

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Joshua

Cool! I still had fun makin' like the Doc and posting assembly picture links
That's where I'd want it.

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Hey 440
Thanks for the pictures and the link. Joshie what converter and rear are you running.
Thanks
Frank

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Scrapple: Because a mind is a terrible thing to waste.
73 Duster - Race Car
66 Dart Wagon - DD
178" FED
82 D150
All Slant powered

I bought a 9.5" torque converter from PTC http://ptcrace.com/. The rear end is a 3.21 geared 8 1/4.

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Joshua