Drove it today, signaled during a right turn and now my right signal won't go off, despite my mechanic replacing the turn signal switch (perhaps three years ago):evil:. So now it's on all the time, and I can't signal left or get it off. Drove it right home and have started steering wheel disassembly when I realized I have some questions.

A) How easy is it to take off/re-install the steering wheel on a 60 valiant? I've never pulled a wheel off before. Removed the horn ring cap, horn ring and spring switch while disconnecting the horn. Removed the retaining nut and washer. Won't come off.

B) Do I need a puller?

C) Once I get it off, do I need a special tool to put the wheel back on? Or does the puller reverse itself to help re-set the wheel on the splined shaft?

D) What could be the problem with the turn signal? Thoughts? Easy to fix?

Thanks guys.

i have pulled the wheel on my 73 dart about 10 times now.

your problem could be a turn siginal switch or just the turn siginal cam part of the switch. better have one of the experts reply on that one.
as far as pulling the wheel here ya go.

step 1: un hook the battery

step 2: dis - assemble the steering wheel

step 3: remove the large bolt that holds the steering wheel to the steering shaft.

step 4: take a marker and mark the relative position of the steeering wheel to the steering shaft. that way you can put the wheel back on correctly not way off center.

step 5: use puller, center forcing screw and swivel over steering shaft, slowly turn forcing screw untill steering wheel is removed. i leave the puller on so i can tap it with a hammer to get the wheel back on the shaft then i remove it and re-assemble.

here is a few pictures of mine and the puller i like, you can get a loaner/rental from autozone with a 15.00 refundable deposit. i payed 10.00 for mine since it was used. be sure you do not dammage the steering shaft threads when putting the wheel back on, i had to re-tap mine and it was a pain. that's why i leave the puller on and beat it up insted. i use a small hammer and tap the wheel back on the shaft just enough so i can start threading the large bolt. then i re - assemble the wheel.

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"Marilyn" 64 Dart GT & "Stella" 64 Valiant V100 Sedan - 63 Norton Project

If you buy a puller, get one that will also pull a harmonic balancer. It's more versatile, you can use it with 2 or 3 bolts.
I just used mine this week to pull the wheel on my Neon to change out the clockspring.

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Slant Cecil

The '60-'61 turn signal switch arrangement is totally different to the '62+ setup. It's much more intricate, with a much higher parts count, and there's no separate plastic cam. Info on repairing '62 or later turn signals does not apply to '60-'61 cars.

The steering wheel removal process, however, is the same regardless of vehicle year. It is very easy, and yes, a steering wheel puller is required. The horn ring's centre emblem assembly is removed by holding the wheel steady with one hand and turning the emblem's round housing counterclockwise until it unlocks, then lifting it off. There is a double-width master spline to get the steering wheel clocked correctly with respect to the steering shaft and linkage; see that you put the wheel back on with the master spine lined up, then secure the wheel with its nut and washer. No other special tool is required for reinstallation.

Where's your factory service manual? You will need it to repair the turn signal switch. Turn signal switches and parts for the '60-'61 A-body cars go by on eBay fairly frequently.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Thanks all of you for your quick replies. I will go purchase a puller since rental vs. buying one sounds like the same price. Dan, I have a 1960 Valiant Service manual, yet it details very little about the turn signal switch itself, so I think I'm on my own there. I have xeroxed parts manual pages so that may give me a bit more detail - hopefully. Will post my results.

The info you need may be in the '61 Valiant supplement to the '60 FSM, or perhaps in the '61 Lancer FSM. Coverage was spotty in those early years; good idea to have all three.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Update:

Pulled the wheel off, no problem. Realized the turn signals were staying on because the electronic part of the switch had come loose from it's two posts and no longer had it's tab under the part of the C-arm that moves it back and forth.

My problem has now become twofold:

1. Threaded the wires from under the dash into the steering column a bit more so I could pull the switch out and in the process, a screw that was holding the electronic part of the switch to the metal part that was loose fell down the steering column shaft. Don't see where it could come out unless I take off the rubber seal on the engine side. Did I screw myself? If I leave it in there, will it damage the steering column?

2. These screws, loose in the main top "cup" behind the switch, were holding the electronic part of the switch to the metal part. Problem is, looking at the holes where the electronic part is held on, they're not threaded at all. Not in the slightest. The screws look as if someone tried to screw them into these small holes and gummed up the threads. But the holes themselves are not threaded. One doesn't even go all the way through from one side to the other. How the heck is this electronic part held on to the metal part? Doesn't look like it was ever held on with bolts/nuts. Looks as though someone jimmied with it to make it "kinda work". Do I need to show a picture of this to be clear?

Am I in the market for a new turn signal switch? Is it all suppose to be one piece?

wow! wish i could help you there. the early cars i have no knowlege of period. if it was from my cars era i would give you a working turn siginal switch since i have an extra for just in case.

i do understand the frustration and i wish you all the best!

good luck mate, let us know how it goes.

neil

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"Marilyn" 64 Dart GT & "Stella" 64 Valiant V100 Sedan - 63 Norton Project

CORRECTION:

Looked closer at the one remaining screw I have and the holes within the metal piece of the turn signal switch body.

The screw is very carefully tapered with four diagonal slots cut at the end. Looks as if it was made that way! Tried screwing one into the hole and it took. Backed it out and looked at the hole and saw the screw had "cut" threads in the metal, much more visible than before. All I can think is that this "new" switch my guy replaced for me 3 years ago was never put together properly, all the way. SO that means I have to go find the screw now that fell down the steering column because I don't know where I could find another of these. Greaaat.

Turn car upside-down and shake...............

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

Yeah...I like the '62+ switch arrangement better. Much less complex and Rube Goldberg-y. You will definitely want to figure out how to fish that errant screw back out, if only because foreign objects in the steering column are a safety hazard — if it should happen to wedge the shaft to the jacket at some moment, you'd have a sudden problem steering the car. From your description, it sounds like self-tapping screws are used here. They are a standard hardware item. Order by description; the new ones may not look exactly like the old ones. You may want to look into the next bigger size if the ones you have now aren't taking a firm bite into the metal.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

How much trouble would it be to change over to the '62+ type?

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David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.

I'm only guessing, but my guess is that it would not be practicable to swap to the '62+ turn signal switch, because the '60-'61 column hasn't got anyplace for the later switch to seat.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

see if you can get a really long thin telescopic magnetic pick-up tool and snake it down the wiring hole and go fishing.

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I've been calling it as i see it for my entire life and that's not about to change. Take it or leave it.

A long thin telescoping magnetic pick-up tool? Is that a real tool or just a good idea?