Just a thought,
If I stick with the current manifold and worry about a new carb when everything else is cleaned up a little, would it be possible to run a line from that EGR mounting to a PCV on the crank case? Assuming I can fabricate a mount to fit the RDT chimney for a PCV.

Thanks alot,
60Ply

Your present difficulties setting the idle correctly will be greatly aggravated if you do this, for the existing carb is not calibrated to account for the extra air that'll be coming in if you put together a PCV system. Leave the PCV retrofit until after you install a newer/better carb. You won't need to fabricate anything; the proper PCV valve cap and retainer to fit the rear chimney of the rocker cover can be had new or used.

You will definitely need to find or fabricate an automatic transmission kickdown linkage. Make this a priority; driving without this linkage hooked up and operating correctly is very hard on the transmission. This system's proper name is the throttle pressure linkage, and if it's absent or too short, hydraulic pressure to the transmission's servos is greatly reduced. This means the clutches and bands are applied much less firmly, which in turn greatly increases internal slippage. Rapid frictional wear and cooked transmission fluid result. See this thread for good, workable options.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Hi Everyone,

I have nearly finished fabricating some new throttle linkages. They bear more resemblence to the original torque rods, and far neater than the mess that was there. All I need to do is fabricate some bushings for the kick down linkage, I fabricated that too (good job brazing rod is so cheap). Shall post some pictures when I have access to a camera.

The new throttle seems to be working much better than the original, can't fault it. The only thing I am concerned about is the "insulator" that fits into the carb throttle lever, and holds the torque rod. What should this be made from, and what exactly is it insulating? I have machined one from nylon because I had some free, and it seems to work fine, I am just a little concerned about temperatures in the engine bay.

As always, all help greatly appreciated,
Thanks alot,
60Ply

The original was rubber; nylon will be fine. You may wind up modifying the way your linkage attaches to a new carb you may buy in the future, obviating the need for this insulator.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Hi All,

The new throttle and kickdown work a treat. Much better response and dropping a gear when WOT is working very well. Gear changes are much more crisp too.

Unfortunately, the car is only doing 13 miles to the US gallon. I think some more fiddling is necessary. I was wondering, the dampener pulley on my car doesn't appear to have any marks on it, what should they be like? Are they painted, embossed etc? They could be hidden under the paint? I would have an easier time giving some information if the

Lots to be playing with, and the newly fabricated bits are fantastic, so, I'm sticking with the positive. This engine is slowly making its way back to how it should be, and I think I shall be going with the EI and carb update.

Once again, thanks for all your help,
60Ply

Should be a clearly-visible slot across the outer perimeter of the damper pulley (a "dampener" is a device that dampens, i.e., adds water, on e.g. a printing press). The damper is a 2-piece item. The outer ring member with belt groove and timing mark is bonded with rubber to the inner hub member pressed onto the front of the crankshaft. With time and use, the rubber will come unbonded and the ring will slip relative to the hub. This'll make the timing marks progressively inaccurate until they stop being visible. Temporarily, you can find TDC by inserting a straight length of shirt hanger wire into the frontmost spark plug hole and turning the engine til the wire stops moving upward. Remember there are two TDCs and you're trying to find the one between the compression and power strokes (both valves closed). You can then use whatever sort of paint to create a mark. But if the rubber's no longer bonded — and in your case it almost certainly isn't — you'll need to address the issue.

There are at least two damper rebuild services in the US, though frankly I wouldn't bother messing with rebuilding when you can get a brand-new one here. Made in Australia, sold by a reliable US vendor (who may be able to work with you to economise on shipping directly from Australia — couldn't hurt to ask). It has two timing marks, for compatibility with timing indicators on either side, as different year slants had the timing indicator located differently. It'll be worth your while to install a '67+ timing cover assembly with distributor-side timing indicator. The '60 timing indicator marks are stamped into the cover itself, and difficult to read even when nuclear (new and clear ), and they are clocked such that you'd have to find TDC with the new damper anyhow. That said, given that somebody installed later American manifolds and a later Australian dizzy, perhaps somebody also installed later front components.
Sounds like it!
Good show; did you ever get my e-mail?

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Hi Dan,

Thanks for the reply. Sorry it has taken a while to get back, I wasn't informed this thread had been updated. I am afraid I did not receive an email from you, unless it was sent straight to junk and deleted.

Also, I was wondering if you could give me an idea of the model and vintage of the brake cylinder? I'm afraid I already opened this issue up in the brakes/susp section of the forum, but I figured it would do no harm to ask here since you mentioned it.

Since there are lots of funny little issues with this vehicle it might be well worth my while starting up a site and documenting all this stuff properly, must be of use, or at least interest to others.

As always, all help is very greatly appreciated.

Thanks alot,
60Ply