I made a discovery of some sorts today when sorting through my blocks about the -10 BH block which according to the article from the main page
is an ideal block in which to build a strong slant. I had bought a complete 225 engine from an old boss at a previous job I had. The engine came from a 1973 dodge dart swinger and it's a "-10 BH"

My gold daily driven duster which is a '73 and sports it's original engine carries the "-10 BH" designation as well..

My dads one owner 1973 duster has the same "-10 BH" as well..

So I guess if you are looking for one of these blocks for a foundation- a 1973 mopar is a good place to start

Well I already have the one "BH" engine tore down, but the problem is that I misplaced the main caps that go to that particular block This block will be getting arp main studs. When using main studs is it essential to have the block align bored or honed??

The "BH" casting is more important then the "- 10"
All the BH blocks I have inspected have extra ribbing and ten to weigh a bit more then other blocks. I have seen up to -14 on BH blocks but it is possible that the dash numbers go higher then that. (this is the casting pattern number)
I would say "yes", have the block align honed with the studs installed and torqued to the reccomended ARP rating.
DD

In that case I have another complete BH engine laying there with everything. Would you still reccomend align honing the block when using the main caps from the original block?? I get so many different answers regarding this matter......

The main caps need to stay with their original block. My machinist went through several 318 #5 bearing caps to find one close enough to align hone to fix a 340 that had damaged it's #5 main cap. If you lose the main caps the block makes a good planter.

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Joshua

I have never align honed anything. Just make sure the plastigage is even on all mains and crank spins freely and you're good.

I just put together my first motor with main studs, no align hone. All was fine.

You do need to have matched caps with block, or I would definitely align hone.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Is there any Oil Passage Interference when Using ARP Main Studs?? If so Watch and be careful that the passenger side studs do not thread-in too far into the block ,as they could hinder oil flow to the mains.. I have never used the studs so just something to check when assembling.

Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

I had a 318 that had distorted mains; crank wouldn't turn even though micing journals and bearings revealed proper clearance.

You can use caps from a different block if they are machined to match.

Also, I've heard that line boring is better than honing because it preserves crank to cam distance; essentially blueprinting the dimension.
Honing, although faster and easier, removes material from block and cap equally, moving the crank "up" in the engine. Boring can bias more toward the cap, but requires more precision in setup.
Although usually more expensive, I think it's money well spent.

Intresting...has any one here had the rotating assembly balanced?? Im wondering at the cost of doing that...

Yes, I had mine balanced. The engine is very smooth all the way up.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Do you remember the cost on that?? It would be well worth doing IMO....

Yes, they charge $227.50.

Mine is a 74 forged crank. They cleaned up the crank allot first like Doc does, lots of flash and sharp edges were smoothed out to lighten it some before attempting to balance. Then the rods were resized, shot peened and checked for weight as were the pistons after they were teflon/heat coated. Doc shows how this is done on his engine build up posts.

When reving it up the engine is super smooth. Before it had some vibration.
It will hit 90 mph from 60 mph in a heart beat. I would have never pushed it that hard before. The balancing really made it a smooth running engine. With advancing the cam 4 degrees and recurving the distributor and opening up the emulsion circuit on the carb it is very responsive and peppy for a 2.76 gear ratio. Porting the head and exhaust manifold also made a noticeable improvement. You don't need to gasket match the intake manifold. I made that mistake and had to get another intake manifold.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Thanks! I was thinking about $250. Mine will be balanced when I get around to it. The machine work is gonna add up quickly

I have a 198 block as well but it doesnt look as beefy as the 225 BH though.

Here's the difference between my 2 tore down BH blocks...

My 225 BH comes in at 158 pounds , My 198 BH comes in at 153 pounds

Where do i find this casting number?

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My lugnuts require more torque than your honda makes.

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Joshua

You can replace the cap without line honing but you have to check it first. Use a caliper, mic, telescoping guage or whatever you're comfortable with and make sure it's not out of round when torqued to spec. If it is, you have to line hone it.