I may have a small hub iron flywheel in decent shape. Should I look for it??

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

I think you can hold off on the flywheel for now, but thanks, Lou. I would rather get a starter to work, so that I can drive it without tearing it apart again. Menko thinks that he has one and a way to transport it as well.

Thanks,

Greg

I think it may be possible that Australian starters are all the early direct drive??

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

The "can solenoid" type starter that Rock offers will fit and work with your Canadian flywheel — your fastest way forward with this is going to be to take him up on that offer. Have a good local starter/alternator house go through the starter for you when it arrives, then toss it in and off you go. If you were to use the Prestolite '60-'61 (plus Canadian '63-'66) starter, you'd need to rework the starter circuit slightly; no starter relay is used with that setup. The "can solenoid" starter will hook right up just like the Chrysler gear-reduction starter.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Australian '63 (AP5) through '67 (VE) slant-6 engines used a Bosch-built direct-drive starter that is compatible with the other direct-drive starters we're talking about in this thread (Prestolite '60-'61 + Canadian '63-'66, Chrysler-built "can solenoid" type).

I have two of those Bosch direct-drive starters, but...they're in Australia right now!

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Starter bolt pattern is identical for all 2-bolt-starter-mount Mopar bellhousings from '60 through the last 5.2 and 5.9 engines (the V10's different, and the new Hemi's different). What differs by starter is the distance between the starter drive pinion axis and the crankshaft axis, and the starter drive pinion diameter and tooth count. Different ring gears are used with the different starters. The direct-drive starters all have a 9-tooth pinion. The Chrysler (and later Nippondenso mini) starter has a 10-tooth, 33mm-diameter drive pinion, as do certain Bosch gear-reduction starters used in Australia. There are also 9-tooth gear-reduction Australian Bosch starters, and 10-tooth-27mm-diameter gear-reduction Australian Bosch starters. Are we having fun yet?

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Ahhhhh!

That is the sound of getting advice from Mr. Dan.

Thanks for the help.

Greg

sent you a PM

Greg

Dan,

As I have been before I am once again in a state of marvel at what you know and/or can find at your wrenchtips. How does he do it, I ask!

I am really glad to be able to print out your answer and stash your reply in my "Arcane Technical" project notebook. I could see a starter on a truck with that big flywheel had to be farther from the crank center but didn't know HOW FAR. Before reading your reply I sent Gmader a note about how I was going to mount the old truck iron bell and truck starter an old block and take the measure, then use an 833OD bell and repeat, then sketch, scan and send to him. Saves me that fun in skeeter country. Or I may just do it anyway, just the kind of slant obsession I love.

I have several sets of all parts necessary to rebuild that starter since I did starters in my wasted youth. It seems most folks buy new ones rather than change end plates, armature bearings, brushes, clean out the field coil, etc. Gettin to be a lost art, I fear.

rock
'64d100

I finally got to my slant pile.....

Way at the bottom under the 3spd trans was the starter .....it looks in great shape mechanically.

I sat it beside a red gear starter and saw the difference right away.

Greg you have a backup starter on its way. I apologise for the inconvienience.

I did not see an easy way to adapt a red gear starter using the Prestolite starter nose.

Nice facts Dan

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

Got Sandy's starter today when I got back from work. It bolted in, and after a false start on understanding the wiring, I have it running.

Thanks to Sandy and Dan, and to Rock for offering help as well.

Greg