Okay, so this guy has these kits available on eBay. I've read up on many much cheaper HEI setups in sixes. I was curious as to the forum's feedback on whether something like this was worth the cost.

Also, it says it's for pre-72 cars. I have a 64, but it has a 76 block, but the block is the only real part of the engine that is different. All the peripherals from the 64 were installed to the block before it was place in the body. Does that matter at all? Sorry, it sounds stupid just saying that, but I want to make sure all the facts are out there.

Thanks for your help!

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Chuck and the Flying Valiant

Any slant-6 distributor fits in any slant-6 engine. The eBay seller you point to is reliable and reputable. The wording of the auction is a little misleading; it's not a NOS kit, it's a new distributor, a new MP wiring harness, and a new who-knows-what-brand-but-maybe-Mopar control box. HEI works better but requires more work to set up. Any electronic ignition setup (Mopar, HEI, whatever except Pertronix) uses a Chrysler electronic distributor. You can easily get a brand-new such distributor from Old Car Parts Northwest; see my post in "The Slanted Network" here on the board. And thank you for using a short link rather than posting one of eBay's craptastic ultra-long URLs!

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

You're welcome. I know they're annoying. I finally figured out the brackets after years of <> training on LiveJournal.

I know the HEIs are better, but I like the neatness of these packages. Is the HEI that substantially superior?

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Chuck and the Flying Valiant

The "plug and chug" aspect of these kits is indeed appealing. Chrysler electronic ignition is better than points. HEI is better than Chrysler electronic ignition. That doesn't mean Chrysler EI is inadequate. Go look at the linked HEI article, which in turn has links to "how it's better" and "why it's better" articles...then decide which to use.

("Ask your doctor if HEI is right for you!")

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Side effects of HEI may include busted knuckles, headaches, nausea and dark material under your fingernails. Do not take HEI if you are nursing, pregnant or trying to deny that you made someone pregnant...

Thanks. I'll do my research!

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Chuck and the Flying Valiant

I've very recently used one of these kits to replace the spark computer in my '86 B250. It all went together very well, worked first time and made a huge improvement. Having read many posts here regarding the condition of the LT side I chose to take a new feed directly from the battery via a fuse and relay, the relay being triggered from the master ignition. So all my LT is new from battery to coil. I did myself a wiring diagram to work to (because I've lived with myself long enough to know I'm not as smart as I once thought I was) ... you're welcome to it if it'd be useful.

I also replaced the stock coil with a Blaster 2. Then I read SlantSixDan's comment about being removed from "the list" due to being made in China now ... so rushed out and phew, mine is US made. It seems UK stock is NOS

Good luck with the conversion if you go ahead with it.

Richard.

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'86 Dodge Ram B250 Dayvan, 225, Mopar ECU EI conversion w/ Pertronix Flamethrower.

I think the reason he says for 72 and under is because in 73+ the cars already had electronic ignition.

Thanks, Richard. I'd be more than happy to check out your wiring diagram. I was originally trying to keep all things Ma Mopar, but I guess that went out the window when I decided to try a Mercedes clutch fan! I may still go HEI, but it wouldn't hurt to have someone else's wiring reference on hand.

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Chuck and the Flying Valiant

I've put a pdf of it here.

Of course, the specifics of the master disconnect and starter relay will most likely be different for you, but it should be easy to work that through from the FSM.

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'86 Dodge Ram B250 Dayvan, 225, Mopar ECU EI conversion w/ Pertronix Flamethrower.

If you decide to do Mopar EI or need just the dizzy, I have a pile of stock late dizzy's with the short slot governors I have just cleaned up, and will be putting some 'better' springs in for a slightly better street curve...
PM me if you want to go that route instead. As an FYI Mopar Performance still sells the EI conversion harness for about $22, so if going to convert on the cheap an DIY, you can get that part at your local dealer.

-D.Idiot

Otherroutes-neat color coded diagram
This is for a 4 pin ECU with single ballast resistor.

My recent first kit conversion was 4 pin, single ballast resistor and my 65 Dart started immediately without problems.

My next kit, purchased for my daughters 65 Dart had the 5 post ECU and dual resistor. Unfortunately I'm still troubleshooting it to get it to work. If I throw in the points distributor the car starts at a click so I have ruled out the coil as being a problem. Resistance for both resistors is to spec. Power is at the coil in the start position. I've also changed the ECU for another new one without success

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1965 Dart 110k, 225, Carter BBD Super Six, 2 1/4 single exh., sbp manual scarebird front disc, 7 1/4 rear 2.94 sure grip, 14 x 4.5 OEM wheels, 833 OD with hyd. throwout bearing, HEI, electric fan, ram air/heated air, Accusump. http://plymouthcarclub.com/

Did you change the 5 pin for the 4 pin from your other car as a 'test'... I think that the blue wire is not hooked up right, or... since the 5 pin has a 'start' side of the resisitor, the blue wire should be hooked to the side with the 'loop' (it ties in both sides of the dual ballast resistor for power... so if you have power at start, the loop/resistor is hooked up differently?)

?

-d.idiot

DusterIdiot: Thanks for jumping in. My daughter's 65 has all five wires hooked up including the blue/yellow hooked to the dual resistor. We've verified the wire connections against the kit instructions & our 76 Service Manual multiple times. The kit wiring diagram even shows the orientation of the resistor.

The substitute new ECU is 5 pin.

The reluctor gap was a bit tight on the kit distributor so we adjusting that also. Unfortunately the gap is not uniform top to bottom. We also tried a used distributor from a 84 truck even though it doesn't have the vaccum advance just to see if it would start the car.

There must be some values we can check with my Volt/Ohm meter to verify connections & components.

Since we get the points distributor into the car multiple times with successful starts, I don't think setting the distributor location is the issue.

My daughter is so excited about successfully running the engine she rebuilt (in the car) with rings, rod bearings, timing chain, cam stop, seals, valves, late model head, etc. that she is not that put out by this electronic ignition issue.

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1965 Dart 110k, 225, Carter BBD Super Six, 2 1/4 single exh., sbp manual scarebird front disc, 7 1/4 rear 2.94 sure grip, 14 x 4.5 OEM wheels, 833 OD with hyd. throwout bearing, HEI, electric fan, ram air/heated air, Accusump. http://plymouthcarclub.com/