Off topic, but don't fear the wheel adapters. We've used them for years on many hot rod applications. Make sure the ID of the wheel adapter fits the axle hub snugly though so your not transferring the entire load on the lugs themselves. Torque them down properly and live happily ever after. Much like anything else it's usually stupidity involved with wheel adapters gone horrible stories.

_________________
Linder Tech.com
Bubba's Trailer Park

Maybe a stupid question and a bit off topic- but about wheel adapters. I'm doing a conversion, come to find out that my rims-cragars- are barely rubbing the calipers on the outside face. What to do? I need about 1/8" to clear, would a washer between the rotor and rim have detrimental effects? Or I was thinking of filing a bit off the ribs of the calipers where they hit.
(Edit) Theres a a place in town that sells spacer rings each 1/8 inch I am thinking 2 of these should do...pfft...washers, what was I thinking.

Retrobot, it goes without saying definitely carefully check your measurements- its easy to overlook the small things (see above)

_________________
<img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3173/2992308402_5481afb26e_t.jpg">

I went the route of installing 75 Valiant disks and rear axle assy on my 72 Demon, primarily for BBP wheels and for finding replacement pads. I've had less trouble with finding pads for the floating caliper brakes than for the KH units.

The KH disks I had on my 66 were fine. If you want to keep it looking stock under the hood, you'll need the proportioning valve and lines from a 65 or 66 model. They were the only ones with a single reservoir master cylinder and disks.

I have a 1964 dart Gt with power brakes as a factory option, so I want to keep the booster under my hood. My problem is - no stopping at all. I installed new brake lines at the rear, and re-built everything at the wheels, so now I have to deduce that the Booster or Master is the culprit.
As it has just the single pot master currently, I would like to upgrade to the double pot Raybestos # MC36338 mentioned earlier, if that is the part applicable to being placed inline with a booster. Is this the part I need for my set-up as well? How can I check to see if my booster is working? Thanx!!

From a functional perspective, you'd be better off installing a later booster that doesn't require the cumbersome vacuum reserve tank and such. But if you want to keep the original booster and vacuum tank, and you determine the booster's faulty, you can always send it to Booster Dewey in Portland for rebuilding. A websearch will turn up his phone number. To determine if the booster or master is faulty, with the engine off, pump the brake pedal six or seven times until it grows very firm. While "standing" on the brake pedal, start the engine. The brake pedal should drop away under your foot (become softer). If not, then the booster's faulty.

A good master cylinder for your power-brake dual-pot retrofit would be the MC36439 (Raybestos number).

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Okay - thanks. I assume that my line coming out of my single pot should just bolt right up, and I won't need to do anything else, just bleed an go...................??