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PostPosted: Mon Oct 27, 2008 5:16 am 
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SL6 Racer & Moderator
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Joined: Sat Oct 19, 2002 12:06 pm
Posts: 8804
Location: Silver Springs, Fl.
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What year car are we talking about? It soulds like the alternator is putting out ok, but there is a pulsing load. Is this a car that has a circuit breaker protecting some circuits? If so there could be a short, and the circuit breaker is opening and closing, causing the pulsing. A headlight switch CB can cause this, if there is a short in the headlight wiring, and the switch is on (just an example).

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 27, 2008 10:52 am 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Fri Sep 09, 2005 9:51 am
Posts: 855
Car Model:
While a diode may well be bad, I've seen stator windings in a '74 Coronet in terrible shape with 2 of 3 burned through, 1 diode dead, and still sort-of charging. Those alternators are quite easy to disassemble for inspection because the brushes are so easy to remove from the outside.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Oct 27, 2008 11:15 am 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Sun Nov 11, 2007 9:59 pm
Posts: 232
Location: Chico, CA
Car Model:
It's a 1973 Dart with stock wiring.

Woah!! Here's something else I just noticed; When the key is turned on, but BEFORE engaging the starter, the ammeter shows about a third of the way towards discharge (these old ammeter gauges aren't very clear as to readings but I'd guess about a 16 amp discharge!). Once started the gauge comes back to it's pulsing center. Funny I haven't seen that before but probably wasn't looking for it.

So the HEI swap is powered through a relay, which is on whenever the key is on, which means that the module and coil are getting power whenever the key is on, engine running or not. With ever accessory off, would the coil and module pull that much power? Or maybe I have some kind of short after all (noticed that the horn has stopped working)?
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Last edited by polkat on Tue Feb 01, 2011 4:30 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Oct 28, 2008 4:33 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Sat Nov 29, 2003 5:45 pm
Posts: 1903
Location: Hamilton the STEEL CITY, ON
Car Model:
you need a multimeter.
radio shack $20, get you one.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Oct 28, 2008 5:20 pm 
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Supercharged

Joined: Thu May 12, 2005 11:50 pm
Posts: 6291
Location: So California
Car Model: 64 Plymouth Valiant
Quote:
you need a multimeter.
radio shack $20, get you one.
You can always get a disposable one at Harbor Freight for about $3 on sale.......

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64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Oct 28, 2008 5:36 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Sat Nov 29, 2003 5:45 pm
Posts: 1903
Location: Hamilton the STEEL CITY, ON
Car Model:
for novices, i recommend the more expensive ones to save the frustration. we want to make the introduction to multimeters as pleasant as possible because it is one of the most important tools in your toolbox.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Oct 28, 2008 8:04 pm 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Sun Nov 11, 2007 9:59 pm
Posts: 232
Location: Chico, CA
Car Model:
I've got one as mentioned before.
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Last edited by polkat on Tue Feb 01, 2011 4:30 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Oct 29, 2008 4:15 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Sat Nov 29, 2003 5:45 pm
Posts: 1903
Location: Hamilton the STEEL CITY, ON
Car Model:
yes, you did I apologise.
does your multimeter have an ammeter function? if it is of fair quality it should have a separate lead port for either a 10A or 20A capacity. an amp clamp would also be valuable at this point.

try unplugging the relay and see if the key-on power draw is still there.

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I've been calling it as i see it for my entire life and that's not about to change. Take it or leave it.


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