Rock, I don't want to give you the wrong impression, I'm no virgin to cars, I'm just old. I've got arthritis in my lower back that has slowed me down a lot. If I do too much bending/twisting I pay for it for a week.
I have tried to do stuff with cars before but I never(I mean never )had a support group like you guys. I can paint, not well but I can do it. I've been a machinist for what seemed like a couple of hundred years. I've even reconditioned cars in a former life. I can do mechanicals but now really need a book right beside me and I've got one. I'm still looking for the guy that called them the "Golden Years".
The exhaust manifold has been played with. I drilled it out as far as I could go then hit a rock. Something in the manifold is really hard. It snapped two drills then dulled up two more. A machine shop in my area(down east Maine) is hard to find and would be expensive. If a fellow member will sell me a good manifold for around $100 plus shipping I think I'll be better off.
The garage is big as well as heated. My wife (did I mention she is a wonderful woman) gave me two restrictions. It couldn't be bigger than the house and it can't have a bathroom. She knew she would never see me again. It's 24x 48 with radiant heat in the floor. I've also got a 55 gallon drum converted over to a wood stove for heat when I want to work out there in the winter. I've got water in it, a good sized compressor and a bunch of tools (I don't need to mention you can never have too many tools-one thing my wife doesn't understand).
Rock, I'm going to send you pictures in a PM. I still haven't figured out how to post on this site.
You guys have inspired me, you really have. I'm going to try and do more work myself so expect a bunch of stupid questions. I had even forgotten about the Plymouth right side left handed lug nuts. The rear brakes are fine by the way. I've got all winter to play, as long as I've got you guys to answer questions I think I'll make it.
Thanks again.
Joe

you probably dont need this tip if you were a machinist, but it should be pointed out that if you break a tap in a hole you are in deep trouble whether it is a $1 tap or a $30 one.
some machine shops offer EDM (electrical discharge machine) service and can drill out anything with one, including a broken tap.last time i had this done for a customer the bill was $60. you may want to consider that, a shop may use a cheaper method if you let them look at it.
if you do not want to bother with it, send it to doctor dodge (doug dutra) cores are getting scarce and he is always looking for them.

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I've been calling it as i see it for my entire life and that's not about to change. Take it or leave it.

Rock, Send me an EMail at: colbyhill@wildblue.net and I'll send some pics of the Mahal.
Joe

This might be better, yet.
http://www.1aauto.com/1A/ExhaustManifol ... 083/475970

Price has gone up some, but it is brand new.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Joe, that "gold" was really rust! I have had ruptured and herniated disks, so I know the drill. I have to be careful not to over-do it.

I have had the same trouble with broken manifold studs, so I don't do it myself anymore. I have broken way too many easy-outs. But the last time I had it done with the EDM it was only $20!!

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Chuck Rivers, Webmaster

Chuck, Thanks. I had a herniated disc that healed then arthritis made it's way in and we know how that goes. It sure feels like rust. I've got some good drugs but there is still pain. I try not to go there, I'll have to get out my soap box and get on a full scale rant. Anyway, I can't find an EDM shop in my neck of the woods. Down East has it's disadvantages.
It's pretty much a done deal for a few parts, a new manifold is among those. I think I'm getting a good deal. New to Mopar but the price I've been quoted sounds really reasonable. If I can find a shop down the road, I'll have a back up.
Thanks for the input and good luck. The hardest thing I've had to do is learn how to slow down. It's still a learning curve.
Joe

that's strange that you cant find edm service in your area. it's pretty much essential for mro emergencies, and most any area has some sort of manufacturing hub in a nearby city. chuck, my bill was that high because a large tap had broken off in a carton clamp, so setup time and burning out the hard tap took longer. a broken manifold stud is cake with an EDM. broken taps, slightly less so.

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I've been calling it as i see it for my entire life and that's not about to change. Take it or leave it.

The phone book up here isn't even an inch thick. The local folk do all their business by word of mouth. I guess I could start with the parts store and go from there. But, like I said, a deal is almost done and I hate to be the one to back out of a deal.
Thanks for the help.
Joe

A torch, drills, penetrating oil, torch, penetrating oil, torch, etc...take your time. Propane torch will work.

I was at the flea market yesterday and got safety glasses that were designed for people that need reading glasses!

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'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's Hookers on jack stands for 8 years in the driveway
'79 Maxivan 360 Offy Qjet Comp RV cam/rusting in the driveway.
93 D350 160HP Cummins Auto Dually Clubcab needs a injector pump
2005 Golden Couch Buick

Joe,

Last year I had a similar problem breaking off a tap in the very last stud hole in the head. Talk about back breaking trying to work way over there in the corner stretching across the car. I finally got the tap out by soaking it with Kriol and taking a socket the same size as the hole and grinding notches to fit the flukes of the tap. By pressing it in the whole and twisting it the at the same time it finally came out.

I used a square 1/4" 6" long driver on the socket and a crescent wrench to turn it. I used a finish nail tapered punch down each fluke to clear the debries from drilling. That way the socket could be ground to fit. To my surprise after enough soaking and grinding it twisted right out rather easily.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

The shops usually charge more if you have broken off an easy-out in the hole, which is why I usually don't attempt it anymore.

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Chuck Rivers, Webmaster

Definitely recommend Kroil on any stuck bolt or tap. It is a penetrating oil, something WD-40 is not.

The 2 bbl from the Pinto is a Weber 32/36 made under license for Ford. It is a progressive 2 bbl and easily tuned to fit the application. It is popular in Jeep circles to replace the Carter BBD. The Weber has better fuel economy and performance than the Carter. A problem with the Weber is that it has a peculiar throat, so choice of air cleaners is limited.

If you have limited cash for professional engine work but your serious about putting some hard work into your valiant i highly sugjest you head to the library and take out every high-performance book they have. Look at areas such as port-matching, turbocharging (can be done for well under $500), and various years of slant six rod/crank/piston combinations.

In your situation you either go with the super six carb,manifold, and linkage salvaged from a junkyard ($50-200) and spend the money on headers and perhaps a hotter camshaft..... Or you do some plumbing and create a blow-through carburetor turbo setup.

Turbocharging the slant six is becoming so common that you can pretty much go right into it after reading every article you can find on the slant and having a good understanding of turbocharger components and how thirsty your setup is going to be (GN turbo probably to much in this case).

Thanks for all the information . I think I did the weber switch once on a 50 Chevy. Two barrel and dual exhaust really helped out the 235 six. Something to keep in mind.

I already looked in the library, remember I'm Down East Maine... There's a lot more books on boat building and how to sail properly. There actually is a speed shop half an hour away. They might be a source of information.
Again, what I've got to do is collect a lot of information then sit down and figure out just what I want to do.
Thanks again.
Joe

Well, it seems okay so far. Very easy to work on, very simple. Adjusting the valves on the 122 cubic inch motor is a bit different that on a slant, but not too bad. However, right now it gets 25-30 MPG mixed city/highway driving, and that includes going 70+ MPH. Pinto guys report figures of over 40 MPG on well tuned motors. That is what I am hoping for.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.