Royal purple is "supposed" to help reduce friction, and their own tests have "proved" it, however, I have not tested it myself, and the gains to be had don't really out weigh the cost.

In a video I saw, they were testing a '94 Crapstain and with Royal purple in the engine, trans, and diff, they "gained" about 10hp, and 5 ft/lbs of torque.

~THOR~

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1984 D100 Shorty Custom
Certified Auto Appraiser - RevItUp Classic Appraisals
President - Cherry City Bombers CC
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Do you think I should be the "guinea pig" on this one? The royal purple is $10 bucks a qt!!!! (donations anyone?) Vs. the $5 bucks for the valvoline.

How many qts do I need anyway? For the converter and the trans?

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'74 Duster 225 Super Six w/904
14" Cragar SS wheels

You may do as you wish, however, I feel that unless you have a Dyno readily available, you won't notice any difference. 5 ft.lbs of torque and 10hp isn't goin to "feel" much different than if you used otherwise. Also, the torque/hp gain was with Royal purple in ALL powertrain components, not just the engine. I doubt that you (along with the rest of us) would be willing to spend well over $150 for oils alone.

My .02

If you do decide to try it, let us know if there are any differences you notice.

~THOR~

_________________
1984 D100 Shorty Custom
Certified Auto Appraiser - RevItUp Classic Appraisals
President - Cherry City Bombers CC
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Yea your right, Im going for the cheaper stuff.

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'74 Duster 225 Super Six w/904
14" Cragar SS wheels

I will say that with synthetic oils I have noticed better oil pressure.

Don't synthetic engine oils tend to degrade seals if you have run reg oil for most of the engines life?

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'74 Duster 225 Super Six w/904
14" Cragar SS wheels

Not quite sure on that, however, I do know that the Dragstip will charge you for the chemicals it takes to clean synthetic oil off the track....

I just run 10w-30 regular oil. Never had a problem with it, and I have noticed the same oil pressure with both synthetic and standard. It is my belief that the synthetic oils were not designed so that we could cram it into our old cars, it was for the newer cars, with newer garbage in them, that require "special" oils to keep them going.

My .02

~THOR~

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1984 D100 Shorty Custom
Certified Auto Appraiser - RevItUp Classic Appraisals
President - Cherry City Bombers CC
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

True. I have run them exclusively after the first oil change in the rebuilt motor in my 84 Ford. No leaks, oil pressure guage pegs on startup and stays pegged no matter how hot or hard I drive it.

Other vehicles I have tried them in were high mileage motors that leaked oil anyway...

I just wanted to add that the Mopar branded/packaged ATF+4 can often be had at WalMart. I bought the only two quarts the local store had for $4.74 each. Looking at the bottle it states that it's a synthetic fluid. To get enough fluid to service my Dakota's trans I went and bought 4 quarts of Valvoline synthetic ATF+4 an auto parts store as the only other WallyMart ATF+4 was their house brand Super Tech ATF+4. I wanted a synthetic fluid even though the Super Tech ATF+4 does appear in the licensed ATF+4 brands list to which Dan has provided us a link.

Did you know that the Chrysler 'multi-speed' automatic has no bands (all clutches) and has a spin-on filter in addition to the usual suction filter? 201k miles on this one and counting!

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Joshua

Its your car, and your decision, but I'm with MichaelS on this one. My '78 Volare came with power brakes from the factory, but now it has manual brakes. It's been working fine this way for several years.

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"Ja, Ich fahre ein altes auto."
'78 Volare 225
'67 Charger 318

We seem to be skipping around alot of random questions here. If more performance and mileage gains are what you are looking for, spending money and time on power brakes is probably not going to help.

Modifications to the induction and exhaust system, an ignition system upgrade, and a proper tune-up on all the components in the car will net you more economy and power than sticking power brakes or different tires on the car.

My advice, do as Dan mentioned and save up for a better exhaust system, preferably from Mr. Dutra. You can purchase the modded rear manifold from him, along with the new cast front. By the time all is said and done, you will have a much better setup this way for a variety of reasons.

Having the carburetor properly tuned, and getting the distributor recurved are probably the cheapest things to do that will move you towards your goals... which we still don't really know what it is exactly that you want.

How many MPGs are you looking for? In city or on the freeway? What does the car run in the 1/4 mile? What would you like to see in the 1/4 mile? What is your rear end ratio? Tire size? Without hard numbers, I at least have a harder time trying to help ya out...

~THOR~

_________________
1984 D100 Shorty Custom
Certified Auto Appraiser - RevItUp Classic Appraisals
President - Cherry City Bombers CC
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing