Lowering the boiling point will do nothing at all to address this issue.

Neither will continuing to claim that slant-6 cars have inherently slower or weaker heater performance than V8 cars.

If I sound cross and short, it's probably because I get hacked off when someone asks a question, gets a list of things to check and examine, doesn't follow through with doing so, then comes back and asks the same question.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

A lower psi cap will not hurt anything to try it. I don't think he really has an issue anyway. If this thread pisses you off then don't reply. Simple. We are not all you Dan.

Ted: Mopar big blocks (I've had three, 2 383's and a 400) always run hot...The slant has a very efficient cooling system (remember they where designed to be aluminum). I once drove from Burien to Renton (to state route 900) with a plugged radiator and water spewing out of some pin holes and never over heated the engine. I've had a motor mount break loose, causing the fan to chew up the upper hose, again spewing coolent every place and still made it a half mile on downtown Seattle hills before shutting it off....no worries again. See what I'm saying?

Thanks guys......

I am going to quit throwing money at the problem and just resign to the fact as Eric has pointed out. The SL6 is extremely efficient and takes longer to warm up compared the my 440 cars. I have bought over $1000 dollars worth of parts so far trying to get more heat. Two heater cores, two radiators, six thermostats, two water pumps, four radiator caps, over six gallons antifreeze, new hoses twice, even routed the hoses over the block for more heat, had the heater box rebuilt, new heater motor, electric fan cooling fan system, two probes, and so on..........some of you have seen pictures of my engine. It is as new and clean as I can make it with no leaks in the system.

Dan your a Grinch, and I resent the fact that you think I am not using everyone's advice and trying new things to solve the problem. I appreciate and am open to every ones input, because you never know if something has been overlooked, become cracked or is malfunctioning in some way. But I have purchased all new parts at least twice and in some cases more in the last two seasons 2007 and 2008..........

My wife can attest to my diligence in this matter because she she has also experienced the difference and has added up all the costs.

Dan,

Next time your out here visiting or looking for parts suppliers I will let you drive my car.

Thanks again.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Hummm... Heated discussion.

Time to think puppies.

There now, can you all feel the love?

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

But seriously, Ted, when you say the motor was entirely rebuilt, did you get the head and the block hot tanked? Back when my brother had his 68 Dart, we swapped a head from a parts car onto the motor in order to get the unleaded valve seats. After the swap, the heater barely put out any heat. We later swapped the head to one that had been fully rebuilt and BINGO the heat worked again. The first swapped head had so much crap in the cooling passages that it was restricting coolant flow to the point of not getting hot coolant to the heater core. The rebuilt head had been hot tanked and was squeaky clean.

Just a thought.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Reed,

Good thought! I am very detailed and meticulous when it comes to rebuilding engines.

Both were hot tanked for about a week then they ran it through a motor dishwasher on end. We got about 1 1/2 coffee cans of junk out of the block and another hand full out of the head.

The head has good flow because last year I had a odd experience with a heli-coil in the last stud hole on #6, next to the fire wall. I didn't know it was there and it blew out water around the stud enough to eat all the carbon fiber off the GPRS Aussie gasket, down to the metal core. I pulled the stud and later was able to get the heli-coil out. After that I fired it up to flush any other debris out and it pumped so much water through it shot a stream of water clear over to the fender over the brake cylinder. I think there is pretty good flow through the head.

Dan mentioned last year to look for pressure leaks, so I thought I had found the problem when I fixed the leaking heli-coil. All last summer during the 90+ degree heat using a 180 degree Super Stat the electric fan would rarely come on during my 120 mile commutes to work and back. I should have figured that when we got in the teens and low twenties this winter it would run on the cool side.

I wish I could find a thermostat hotter that a 195 degree Super Stat for the winter months. Our Auto parts stores here don't carry anything hotter, however I know some NASCAR engines run them from my tour through Chrysler's engine lab.

wjajr,

Yes, I feel the love.....thanks!

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Well, this one has me stumped. Every time I have had a heating issue it has been either a clogged heater core, bad tyhermostat, or clogged block/head passages. Sounds like you have covered those.

Have you double checked to make sure the temp door in the heater box is moving as it should?

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Reed,

Since I blocked off and sealed the cold air inlet, yes. I can go out and make sure it didn't pop off the control cable. I keep it all the way to the right for max heat. Another good thought! Thanks Reed!

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Recap:

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

Ted,

For what its worth I have similar issues with my Slanted D-150. I am in Spokane and have had to partially block the radiator to get heat lately. My Slant is mostly stock with the usual low compression ratio. It has a new radiator, 195 degree thermostat, and a stock fan--no thermostatic clutch in it (I do have one in a box waiting to go in--60 inches of snow here makes working outside less than fun).

My assessment is that your motor simply is over cooled (from a sensible heat standpoint) when the temperature is in the teens or below. If you have a functioning temperature gauge then you have much of the information you need--aside from the fact that the heater is blowing cold air at you. This is a simple heat transfer problem--same surface area for rejecting heat at 100 degree plus might be a bit much at much lower temperatures. The thermostat is NOT a throttle valve, so when it opens your radiator rejects a bunch of heat. A thermostatic clutch on your fan might be an option...if it will fit your rig...

Got snow? Move to Spokane, we do...

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Slanted D150

If everything in the cooling system is clean, free flowing, flappers in the heater box adjusted and working as they should it is time to test your thermostat. One should not need to place cardboard over the radiator to get heat in your mild climate.

Perhaps you could test the thermostat by dropping it into a pan of cold water that has a cooking thermometer monitoring temperature. Heat the water and observe the temperature at which the thermostat opens. Than cool it down to see if it closes, or sticks open too long.

Every time I have had problems getting heat it has been caused by faulty thermostat not fully closing. And yes, new units can be defective.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

Ted- any luck yet?

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Have you tried taking the vacuum hose OFF the heater valve to make sure it is staying open all the way? If the Dash switch is bad it could be seeing vacuum at cruise, but not at idle when you are looking at it.

A lower psi cap could only LOWER heater performance by allowing more bubbles to form in the coolant. It would also limit the max temp by letting it boil over sooner. The only reason pressures higher than 16psi are not normally used is because the radiator and hoses would suffer.

Did you drill holes in the thermostat? With the bypass right under the thermostat it is not needed on these cars. I would just get a new 195 superstat, test it and put it in. Is something way off with the tuning so that this engine is not making heat or power?

Yeah, that's great, but it still doesn't get all of it... sealing the block and pouring a muriatic mix in the water jacket in the block after hot tanking will dissolve the most stubborn rusted factory scabs...

-D.Idiot

And you can get muriatic acid at the local Home Depot or Lowe's or pool maintenance store.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.