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PostPosted: Wed Jan 07, 2009 8:20 am 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Wed Apr 30, 2008 8:28 pm
Posts: 645
Location: SFCAUSA
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I am almost ready to have some machining done to my cylinder head. I would like to have an idea of what it would cost to have some work done.

To be done:

1. Install new oversize valves w/hardened seats. (I already have the valves)

2. Mill off .08-.1 (not sure how much yet)

3. Machine for 1 possibly 2 valve guides.

I walked into a shop yesterday and the guy quoted me $420.
So, as I stared off into space trying to keep my composure I quietly thanked him and left.
From the looks of the place (not to mention the word "racing" in the shops name) I figured they would be on the high side.

What is reasonable price I should expect to pay for this work?

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 07, 2009 10:32 am 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Thu Jan 27, 2005 8:32 pm
Posts: 7834
Location: Portland-ish
Car Model: Fiat 500e
Here's my experience: http://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=30217

For your high cost of living area the price quoted is probably about right, but call around anyway.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 07, 2009 2:20 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 21, 2002 11:08 am
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Location: Blacksburg, VA
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Doesn't sound far off, but you might do better. Why not just ask Doug where he gets his done?

BTW, you should have them cut the seats for the bigger valves, then do your finish blending in the ports before the valve job. Nice pics in your porting update, esp the "scared face" one...

Lou

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 Post subject: Not bad...
PostPosted: Wed Jan 07, 2009 6:20 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 29, 2002 8:27 pm
Posts: 9760
Location: Salem, OR
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Sounds pretty close...
Shaving the head that much usually is a major cost at most shops (most places don't cut that much off anything...).

I currently have a head in for the same thing except I already had the head shaved previously. The only difference this time is I'm opting for stainless seats, since cutting the 1970's hardened seats are going to take away the hardening and I'm using stainless valves... so if the mix goes lean/ the exhaust turns into a blow torch... I can rest knowing the exhaust seat won't be the culprit this time...

So far you're doing great... 8)

-D.Idiot


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 07, 2009 8:57 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Wed Apr 30, 2008 8:28 pm
Posts: 645
Location: SFCAUSA
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Joshie that link gave me good info. its appreciated.

Dart 270, Doug had recommended the same thing with the blending.

D.idiot- Stainless seats, I thought Nickel alloy was the norm- just curios why your going that route.
Thanks fellas

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 08, 2009 4:44 am 
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Joined: Sat Oct 19, 2002 12:06 pm
Posts: 8672
Location: Silver Springs, Fl.
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Shop charged me $60 for a .100 head mill. No other work. Dropped off the head, picked it up a few hours later. No other changes to the engine, except the head mill/swap, pickd up 3 tenths, and 3 mph, 1/4 mile.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 08, 2009 2:09 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 17, 2002 7:27 pm
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Location: Park Forest, Illinoisy
Car Model: 68 Valiant
That really isn't bad for the amount of work you want done.

I would bet that when you get the valve job done you will need more than 2 guides done also.

My street head that Mike did was right at $800. That included 12 guides, oversize valves, porting and flowing, springs, retainers, locks, and a cleanup mill to make it flat. :shock:

I personally do not believe in replacing seats when using O/S valves, but that's just me. :lol:

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 09, 2009 12:19 am 
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Joined: Wed Jan 29, 2003 4:42 am
Posts: 8910
Location: Cox’s Creek, KY
Car Model: More cars than sense...
I paid somewhere in the neighborhood of $550 for a complete head job with all new larger Chevy valves, guides, springs, milled .080 and fully ported. This was in 2003 in Atlanta.

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