Hi All,

I need repair on my 71 Dodge Swinger. I’ve had her for 12 years and cannot seem to find anyone who can repair her properly. I have invested in 3 front suspension jobs in the last 3 years (one a year). I had the engine rebuilt in 2003 now I’m told I need the heads repaired. At times she smokes. Bottoms out on the potholes almost every time (I must slow down to a halt). Today I noticed parts that were covered by the front bumper are now visible beneath it as if what's under the hood is dropping out. Oil is leaking and a variety of noises exist. I need to be directed to a shop or mechanic who knows about this car and won't fix just enough to have me back in the next couple months. I do small jobs like oil changes, tune-ups and replacing alternators myself, but that is all. I'm amazed she's still drivable, but I refuse to drop another penny unless I can deal with a knowledgeable repair shop.
Please any help will be appreciated.

TIA

Welcome on the board. It sounds like your car has multiple issues originally arising from simple age and wear, but aggravated by improperly-done repairs.

The big question is: What exactly are you looking for? If your car has extensive wear in multiple areas (engine, suspension, etc.), then to have everything put right so that the car once again reliably works properly will cost a fair good chunk of money. Are you prepared to spend it?

I recommend you buy these three books as quickly as you can. Even if you won't be doing the work yourself, reading them will give you a good, deep, wide understanding of how your '71 Dart and its parts and systems work, so you can better evaluate mechanics and shops and the work they say is needed, and the job they do.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I'd be glad to help ya out but LA is too far to go. There are lots of people on here from out that way, hopefully someone will chime in.

Sorry to hear about your repair woes, but welcome to the site.

Crashing over bumps and lack of suspension control are usually caused by weak springs and worn shock absorbers. Another common cause is the front ride height being set too low. The front ride height is adjustable and needs to be set properly. Our cars typically came with very low rate (soft) torsion bars for the front springs. With weak springs and cheap replacement shock absorbers it's is easy to use up all of the available suspension travel and hit the bump stops (assuming they are still there!) or hit the ground with the front crossmember. A lower than stock ride height allows for less suspension travel so less force is needed to use all the travel and bottom out the suspension.

Rebuilding the front end usually consists of replacing worn bushings, ball joints, tie rod ends, idler arm and pitman arm. When rebuilding the front suspension it's easy to overlook missing bump stops. There should be a triangular rubber bump-stop on the lower control arm that meets a pad on the body when the suspension is fully compressed. Have a look and see if your bump stops are in place. If not, you have your first DIY (do it yourself) repair lined up.

You can see suspension diagrams here: http://www.moparts.org/Tech/Archive/susp/10.html

If the suspension bottoming problem persists or if you simply want to improve handling the best front suspension upgrade is new torsion bars and good shocks, but neither are inexpensive. About the least expensive worthwhile torsion bar and shock upgrade is a pair of .870" diameter torsion bars from a V8 equipped A-body and a pair of KYB Gas-A-Just shocks.

Stock base model 6-cylinder torsion bars are .830" diameter and have a wheel rate of about 100 lbs/in. The .870" torsion bars are 120 lbs/in. My Valiant has Mopar Performance 1.04" torsion bars which are 250 lb/in, are paired with $140/ea shock absorbers and retains a very good ride without being harsh.

What you really need is the original Chrysler factory service manual for your car so you can make more of your own repairs or at the least be more educated as to the functioning and repair of your car. There are no good substitutes for this book.

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Joshua

holy smokes, im amazed youve had "her" for 12 years and havent taken this matter into your own hands. do you have health issues preventing this?

if not, take some pictures. let's start with an overview of your car.
buy some tools. with what youve spent on mechanics over the years, youd have a heated shop with a lift of your own by now.
tackle each issue in order of importance one by one, a bite at a time and post appropriate help threads on the issues as you work through them. we will help you along.
please, dont flood the board with 20 help threads a day.
build your independence step by step and take back your car.
in the meantime, arrange for alternate means of transportation until your car is safe again. it is inevitable at some point you are going to have to disassemble it further than you can reassemble it in one day.
good luck.

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I've been calling it as i see it for my entire life and that's not about to change. Take it or leave it.

Thanks for the responses. You guys are really firing me up ( in a good way.) How much strength is needed to do these jobs? I guess it's true if you want something done right you have to do it yourself. I'll post the photos tomorrow. Thanks again guys.

if you can do a straight lift of 50lbs you have all the strength you need to do any type of repair on your car. with your budget, you can buy any tool you need to do the heavy work. the only female mechanic i ever worked with weighed less than 100lbs, and she worked on truck cranes.
just this morning i replaced a 50lb Delco 40MT starter on a hyster 40,000lb forklift outside, and it was about 2*F and snowing. if i remember to bring the camera tomorrow i'll take a picture. you can do this.

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I've been calling it as i see it for my entire life and that's not about to change. Take it or leave it.

The most important tool you will need is PATIENCE I get so frustrated sometimes I have to walk around for a while to cool down, but it always feels good when it done.

Welcome aboard HeavenlySwinger.

It is true, these guys can walk you through any repair if you have the desire to learn, and know which end of a screwdriver to hang onto.

I'm living proof. I got my Dart last March in border line rolling condition. These folks here have guided my hand over every inch of my car assisting in wiring, suspension, mechanical, and parts locating projects. They are great, but first you have to get a factory manual.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

Okay, still waiting for answers to the questions I asked in my earlier response, but…Pep Boys?!! They have garage bays, but they're for extracting money and breaking your car while installing poor-quality parts. They employ no mechanics, they have only minimally-knowledgeable, low-intelligence, inexperienced parts hangers. If that is the type of facility you've been trying to get satisfactory repairs from, then it is little wonder you are frustrated...!

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Sorry about that SlantSixDan
Very frustrated. Pep boys didn't get the chance, but if they weren't trying to milk me they would have.
I want my car to run well, I'm asking stock not racing(maybe in the future) I wouldn't have minded paying for an honest job and I was hoping that I would not have to repair everything all at once.

Now, I'm not looking for a shop anymore because reading the posts makes the idea of me repairing my car myself (with you alls help) at my pace and financial ability a feasible task. That is the route I will take. I've ordered the Chrysler repair manual, and will find another way to get around. I will post the photos tomorrow.

Yes the dip stick smells like gas and it is a thin layer that stretches about 3 inches above where the oil ends. the car smells like gas when the smoking occurs and I have to give it a lot of gas to get the car started.