I have been looking for some poly or urethane inserts for my 1978 Volare engine mounts and can't find any.I see a lot of people putting chains and straps on them.I was wondering if there would be any problems of having a set machined out of aluminum and installing them.Is the block strong enough not to break off at the mounting areas? I was thinking I could always get a universal urethane bushing and install it where the bolt goes but I would prefere just to have aluminum inserts machined and install the bolt through it.I really don't care if I can feel the engine vibrations in the car (kinda like that thought). I'm more concerned with breaking the block or causing fatigue.I have new replacement ones but the motor has quit a bit of movement in it.Any thoughts?

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SOOOOO much money spent and I keep gettin' told that I could have had a V-8

Poly spool inserts for the '73-up engine mounts are being developed by Johnny at PolyBushings. I just spoke with him; he says he should have them designed and ready for production within a couple weeks.

Solid mounts are a poor idea. You won't break the block, you'll crack the K-frame and start shedding parts, probably starting with the front suspension. The front end design of the F-body is pathetic enough even with isolation from engine vibration. Take away that isolation and things will start failing sooner than later.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

[quote="SlantSixDan"]
Solid mounts are a poor idea. You won't break the block, you'll crack the K-frame and start shedding parts, probably starting with the front suspension. quote]

I ran a 12 second 383 big block wagon on the street & track for 3 years with solid mounts..no issues whatsoever.

What kind of wagon, with what kind of K-frame?

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

1966 Coronet. V8 k-Frame.

Do you drive it daily?

If yes, I'd honestly stick with the rubber mounts and use a torque strap. Even with new rubber spool type mounts, I noticed a LOT more vibration in my car than with the old worn out inserts. It's still comfortable, but I would imagine that with poly inserts, the vibration would be too uncomfortable for a DD.

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

So this applies to my comments about F-body shake-apart...how?

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

You hurt my 5th Ave's feelings Dan.

Reed,

I wouldn't worry about it much. Aside from the torsion bar doing double duty as a strut rod and the so-so upper control arm mounting the F/M/J suspension is quite robust. There is a reinforcement kit for the upper control arm mounting so that's an easy fix.

If one wants to firm up insert type mounts which have voids you can fill the voids with windshield setting urethane. The Dodge Colt Turbo I had briefly had an engine mount that had been filled. The vibration was certainly noticeable, but not objectionable. I6s don't have the same vibrations as an I4, but solid mounts still aren't fun in a street car. I also value my hearing.

An F-body would actually get less vibration into the cabin than an A-body with solid motor mounts as the whole F-body front subframe is carried on bushings.

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Joshua

I've driven hopped up F bodies daily too without any problems either. I didn't have solids though.

Thanks for the input.I like the idea of filling the mounts with urethane.My only thing is when running the car hard you can really feel the motor move and it making the trans move lot also.I have aluminum front K-member mounts instead of the original rubber ones.I dully disassemble and sand blasted and inspected the K-member and it sure looks pretty rugged,even for a built six.I'll try filling the mounts and see what happens.I don't care if I can feel the motor,it's not like it's a daily driver.My biggest worry was if I had solid mounts made would the block handle it and not crack.I'm only launching the car off the foot brake/line lock but the few times I launched it hard there was a lot of movment.I put in new inserts.I was really thinking of only having a solid mount made for the left mount ( torque side) and leaving the insert in the right side for a little cushion.Seems to me that if I secured the left side of the motor it would be a big help?I guess I'll find out shortly and I'm supposed to have my motor back in a couple of weeks.

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SOOOOO much money spent and I keep gettin' told that I could have had a V-8

just my .02 but what I am planning on doing is welding the round insert piece that holds the rubber "bushing", because the 2 tack welds broke that hold it in place, burn out the rubber, make a cheap i.e. cardboard backing plate superglued on the one side, put the bolt through from the bottom *make sure its centered !!* fill it with flexane 94, sort of like thishttp://www.nicoclub.com/articles.php?id=215490


-Mike

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I am the Guardian, I hate helos, everything leaks.......

http://www.fastenal.com/web/products.ex ... allpartial

And heres where to get it, very good people to deal with,


-Mike

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I am the Guardian, I hate helos, everything leaks.......

I dont want to hijack the thread but I was working on my 80 Volare today and noticed that both engine mounts are pretty worn out. I checked Rockauto.com (my new favorite online place to order parts) and see that there is a complete LEFT side mount for $7.89 but for the RIGHT side only the rubber insert is listed for $4.17. I checked NAPA online and only found the inserts.
It is common to replace just the insert on an SL6? How difficult is it to replace just the insert?
Thank you,
Scott

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Scott
1956 Dodge Custom Royal Lancer
1980 Road Runner (Dont call it a Volare!)
2002 Dodge Ram 1500 Quad Cab
1976 Corvette Stingray