Also, anyone on here know a lot about 318's?
If so, in 1972 onward they de-tuned them to have less horse power due to strict emission laws, is there a way I can re-tune it so that it will have the power of a 318 before 1972?

Thanks.

Sort of, but not as much as many people misbelieve. The horsepower rating system changed for 1972, so even those engines that were unchanged from previous years had lower (and more accurate) published horsepower numbers. See here for more detail.

It looks like yours is a California car. Check the underhood vehicle emission control information label (on the driver's side inner fender) to see if it was built to California emission regulations — better yet, show us a good, clear, sharp, close-up photo of the fender tag (also on the driver's side inner fender, a metal plate stamped with letters and numbers) so we can tell you in detail how, where, and when the car was built.

If it is a California-emissions car, the biggest improvement you can make is to eliminate the floor jet exhaust gas recirculation system. This consists of a pair of plugs with a hole in the middle of each, threaded into the floor of the intake manifold. There is no EGR valve or other control system; the holes are always open to admit exhaust into the intake tract. It does awful things to performance, driveability, and economy. Disabling it is very easy: replace the floor jets with solid plugs. I'd try and find brass ones, tho steel or aluminum would also be okeh. Just remove the carburetor, unscrew the floor jets, screw in the plugs, and replace the carburetor. You will need to reset the engine idle speed and mixture.

Beyond that, improvements are pretty easy…a carefully-recurved distributor, preferably in conjunction with a good electronic ignition upgrade such as the HEI setup, which is potentially easier on your V8 than on slant-6s (depending on choice of coil and module) because of the availability of this clever bracket. NGK #ZFR5N (stock number 3459) spark plugs gapped to 0.045". Use the blue Standard-BlueStreak CH-409X distributor cap, and the tan NAPA-Echlin MO-3000 rotor (don't substitute on the plugs, cap, or rotor). Good quality spark plug wires (I like Magnecor). As things need replacing (e.g., exhaust system) you can consider upgrades.

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Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

The car was purchased in California when it was new. And I plan to put a 4bbl intake/carburetor on it, so that should take care of my biggest problem. (4bbl wont happen for a while though) and It doesnt have the sticker on the drivers side fender, but, it does have the metal plate stamped. so it seems that if I just modify it the car it will really start to gain power as the old parts with the emission control will be coming off. Thanks for the info though, it helped me out a lot.

Also, with the 318 currently having 160-170HP stock with all the emission controls, jumping up to a 4bbl should easily bump me to around 230HP? Since the 71' and earlier was stock at this HP with out emission controls.

I once had a 72 Satellite with a 318. It was not a California car. he only modification I did to that car was to add a Pertronix electronic ignition system, dual exhaust, and bump the base timing up a bit. That car got almost 20 MPG on the highway with me driving like a maniac, had loads of power, and was a very pleasing car to drive. It was otherwise in stock two barrel trim with the stock single plane intake manifold.

If you are going to swap to a four barrel and not go drag racing, I would recommend you try and get your hands on a Edelbrock SP2P or Offenhauser Dual-Port intake. You should be able to find these cheap because most hot-rodders consider them junk due to the intake runner design. These intakre manifolds arew designed to maximize low RPM torque and fuel economy at the expense of high RPM flow and horsepower. However, this is exactly what you want in a street motor that doesn't see the high side of 4,000 RPM very often.

I would also recommend not getting too large a carburetor. For a street motor i wouldn't recommend anything much bigger than 500 CFM. I am a big fan of the Holley 4360 Economaster style carburetor. It flow 450 CFM, can be fitted with an electric choke, and can give excellent gas mileage and performance.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Yes, I agree, I wasnt going to get like a 700CFM carb or anything, will stick with a more pratical one like you suggested, more than likely a 500CFM one tho. as of right now the car gets 14mpg City 18mpg Highway...and also, that depends on what your idea of a fast moving car is, my idea of one would be 0-60 in around 7-8 seconds for a street car, since I like playing with the car, doing burn outs and what not lol
but over all I would keep mods mild. only getting the 500CFM 4bbl carb, Headers, and a MSD. Thats all.
But this wouldnt happen for a while, I need to get my license, then head out looking for a job.

Sounds like a plan. However, I think you would be just as happy, and spend much less money, bu doing the HEI ignition upgrade rather than MSD.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Not really — you're getting tripped up by pre-'72 and '72-up horsepower rating system differences. Please go read the horsepower article I linked you to in my previous post.

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Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Nope. That 230hp rating was a lie. My '68 Dodge D200 had a 318 with a Stromberg 2bbl and a PCV valve as the only emissions equipment. Dodge saw fit to post a net HP rating on the ID plate and it was no where near 230hp. The same 318s that were advertised as 230hp (gross) in a passenger car were 164hp net in a 1968 Dodge pickup.

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Joshua

Dan, The intake manifold jets that you are taking about. Would they apply to a 87' 360 motor? This post caught my eye because I am rebuilding a 360 motor with a factory Quadrajet 4BBL. After reading the post I unscrewed a (part?) maybe 3/4" pipe size from the drivers side intake manifold floor. The (part?) is clogged with carbon. The passenger side of the dual plain manifold has a 1/2" hole in the floor that has no plug or fitting. The two holes seem to feed into the exhaust manifold crossover area under the manifold. It is not a Califorina emission motor, and it did have a EGR valve before I blocked it off. Am I looking at the same jet you are talking about? I can post some pics if it helps.

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Yes, but exhaust only flows thru them when the EGR valve is open on '73-up engines.

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Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

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Um....First off '72jim it Isnt a Duster, Its a Dart, the duster is a slant. and It doesnt bother me to break the law by adding a 4bbl, who cares? the only way ANYONE will know is if they pop the hood, so yeah, good luck with me getting in trouble with that. I dont mean to snap at you man, but dude, its my car, its my choice. And I dont have the money for a performance car, and even if I did I wouldnt buy one, why buy one with all the mods done? That takes away all the fun of doing it yourself. and the suspension is also in good shape, the back ones were recently replaced.

I guess you haven't spent much time around dragstrips with a slant powered A-body!

-Jaems

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Which law would that be, exactly? Please provide specific citations to laws saying you cannot replace a 2bbl carburetor with a 4bbl carburetor on a 1972-model vehicle.
Who said anything about doing burnouts?
It'd start and run better, and get better mileage, with the floor jets plugged.
Oh, well then! You believe everything Rich Ehrenberg says?

Hi there, 72Jim. Have we seen from you before…?

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Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

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