Shaker, Do you have a tube bender or did you buy some bent tube and then cut it up? Can you share more of the process?

Danny

You can purchase bending mistakes at Stahl Headers (I did this) http://www.stahlheaders.com/Frame%20Tubing.htm

Or a prebent "builder kit" from Columbia River Mandrel bending
http://www.mandrel-bends.com/catalog/bu ... r-kits-46/

The process is a lot of test fitting and visualization. Pipes are tack welded to check fit and accessability. You have to be mindful of access to fasteners and heat sensitive items. You also have to be able to remove the header and be able to weld all the pipes too. The collector is the last item to be welded as you have to fill the hole in the middle of where all the pipes converge.

What was your order for Stahl? Might be able to save a buck if I just buy what i need!

Thanks for the links. I thought that looked like what you were doing. I can see how it would keep you on your toes.

Danny

I bought the 1 5/8" bending mistakes. Lots of pipe left over (even with a few mistakes)

I thought I might be able to do it with the columbia river ultimate builder kits but you would have to have it well though out ahead of time and not a lot of room for error.

shaker how did you get the round pipe in the rectangular-ish hole ? Precision adjustment tool aka a Pound-O-Meter (hammer) ? Are you tig or mig welding ? I am assuming your using gas for the mig, straight argon or a blend ? Gorgeous header, thinking of mass producing ?!!

-Mike

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I am the Guardian, I hate helos, everything leaks.......

I used Clifford flanges (this was before the ones on ebay were available). The flanges are nice but don't line up with the ports exactly well. I had to grind a few of the ports to make sure there was not an obstruction on the inside edge. I'd be curious to see how well the ebay ones lined up.

The pipe-o-meter was a hammer and a vice. Surprisingly, it worked quite well for working the metal into the needed shape. I'm using a mig welder with a blend of argon...80/20 I believe. My welding is not very pretty like some guys but when I look inside the pipes I can see it has good penetration. The intake will cover most of it up anyway.

I don't think there would be a real market for a turbo header. I'll have somewhere between 25-30 hours into this one. As I got better, I might be able to do one in 20-25 hours. I think it would be just to expensive and ultimately cost prohibitive for most.

Tom, So that Old Clifford Header flange is just Mild steel too?


Also In the first pic of "header Porn" it sure looks like you have some Junk in that #1 Exhaust port Like anti freeze crud or somethin.. It could just be the pic, but it looks different than the other visible exhaust ports in your shots. good work on the Headers..

I made all of my own 3" exhaust for my volare and your pics remind me of that project. Your car will be a super sleeper now with that bigger turbo and Better Bottom end - Just hope the crank Doesn't snap in half with all that Power!


Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

hell shaker's creative enough he'll just build a girdle for the bottom end !! BTW are you going to ceramic coat it, or just use header wrap ?

-Mike

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I am the Guardian, I hate helos, everything leaks.......

Good eyes Greg. The 1st stud would weep when the engine warmed up so there was a little spotty rust in the port. Yes, the clifford flanges are mild steel. I sure hope the crank does not break!

Mike, I'm going to have the header chrome plated for added durability. I'm not going to have it polished since you will not be able to see it. A friend of mine who has a lot of work plating work done thought it would be $60-$100 to have a basic chrome job done.

cool, I really can't tell by the pics but I am assuming you got a brace to help hold the turbo up, is it possible to get a shot of that bracket ?

-Mike

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I am the Guardian, I hate helos, everything leaks.......

I'll see if I can get a pic...I made a brace that attaches to the block via the power steering mounting holes.

Hey, looks good. Don't see your O2 bung yet? Just put one on dads downpipe. $3.50 at Car Quest for 18mm bung. Later
Ryan

so how goes the header shaker ? what is that brass fitting(s) attached to the intake manifold ?

-Mike

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I am the Guardian, I hate helos, everything leaks.......

The brass t fitting is for the boost/vacuum gauge and the other end has an adjustable pressure switch that activates a methanol injection system.