Underhood was painted, and the ground strap from the head to the firewall is connected as it was originally when purchased new and last run. Should I scuff up the area on the firewall behind the ground strap screw?
I disconnected the plug (the wires on mine are black and brown), removed the distributor from the block, set the multimeter to 2000 (not 2000k) and the reading was 433.
While doing this test, the multimeter started at 430, jumped up to 600, then dropped to a negative number. Is this bouncing around what is to be expected? I did not receive a drop under 100.
Have feeler gauges. Using .008 gauge, did #3 above. As #4 said, there was some resistance. My opinion is that it was not too tight, nor too loose.
I spun it slowly looking closely and none of the star points hit the magnet. I then spun it faster observing the same. My eyesight sees that the star points are equally spaced/gapped. I did not change the gap with the feeler gauge.
I returned the distributor to the block. Did this test provide evidence the distributor is okay?

Scuff it up and make sure there is clean metal on the firewall, and on the block where the other end hooks to.

The dropping to a negative number is a bit interesting, but I take that as a multimeter fault, not the distributor. It sounds like the measurements you have should be fine. It would be interesting to see what you get with a different (preferably better) multimeter.

Gap sounds ok to me as well.

I'd say the dizzy is in working order. On to the next step after grounding everything.

~THOR~

_________________
1984 D100 Shorty Custom
Certified Auto Appraiser - RevItUp Classic Appraisals
President - Cherry City Bombers CC
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

The resistance scale does not go into negative readings. it is either 0.0, or O.L with resistance readings inbetween. are you sure it was set at the resistance scale?

_________________
I've been calling it as i see it for my entire life and that's not about to change. Take it or leave it.

While reading this thread, couldn't help but wonder if the plug wires are routed correctly 1-5-3-6-2-4 in a clockwise rotation.

On page 2 of this thread, I wrote:

hi 74DartSport,
have you had any success with your engine yet?
got a progress report for us?

regards,Rod

Thor I am reviving this post. I did the voltage drop test. My multimeter was set on 20V and the reading was 0.13V. I assume this means the brown wire does not need replacing.
I have spent months trying to resolve my problem. I have drawn wiring diagrams and compared them to my 1973 FSM wiring section. Still will not fire up.
Voltage readings:

Battery - 12.22 v
Battery relay - 12.22 v
Starter - 12.22 v
Fusible Link - 12.22 v
Wiring Harness (J) on bulkhead - 12.22 v
Underdash Firewall Harness (J) - 12.06 v
CI 5 Starter & Ignition Switch Connector on Steering Column - M16 20 BK had 12.01 v and J1 12R had 11.93 v
Back of Fuse 7 on Fusebox - 11.94 v
Back of Fuse 8 on Fusebox - 11.97 v
Key in RUN - 10.64 v at three of four terminals on ballast resistor (Terminal with Red w/ Green tracer only had 3.09 v).

This is as far as I have gotten tracing wires and volts. I am looking for a drop in voltage associated with faulty wiring. Where do I trace wires next. (I don't know how/where the wiring from underdash leads back to the engine/alternator/coil/distributor areas.) Please point me in this direction. Still not getting 12 volts at + coil. Jumper wire from (+) battery to (+) coil did not fire engine.

Starter still turns fine. Could a weak starter be my problem? Why no 12 volts at coil?

You need to check the last 4' of the engine harness.......somewhere in there may be a burnt wire. Unravel the tape and check it carefully.
On my 74 I found several burnt wires that were touching lowering the voltage to the coil.

_________________
Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

I can do this. Are you talking about the engine harness that runs along the firewall, the wire harness that runs along the valve cover over to the coil, alternator. Where in the harness were your burnt wires. GOOD ADVISE TED. I hoped to avoid this but I am out of options.

Someone look at my above post and tell me where the voltage goes and comes back into the engine compartment.

I see your car is a 74. I don't know if this has been mentioned yet, but have you disabled the seatbelt interlock system?

I second checking harness. Burnt wires suck

_________________
-- Mister Perkins --

Pictures of my truck
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3257131p

Not disabled. It works and I do plug in the seatbelt every time to crank the car. Once its plugged in, turn the key, and the starter spins.

I just went and bought an inline spark checker. This morning I ran a jumper from the + battery to the + coil terminal and sprayed aerosol starter fluid down the carb. Still no fire up. I suspect no spark at the sparkplugs.

Try pressing the bypass switch the next time you try starting it up. Or, just disable the system by unplugging the wires that go to your seats.

74DartSport,
Mine burnt at about midpoint along the valve cover. The alternator wire got hot and melted through to the oil sender and coil wires. I was getting less than 4.5 volts to the coil at an idle. Now I am getting 10 volts. You can unplug it right behind the valve cover and pull it out. I purchased the stock terminal ends at our local Auto Parts store and replaced each wire on wire at a time. That piece last four feet can receive allot of heat and abuse so its good insurance to replace it. Take your time and solder the wires. Wrap it in black tape and use 1/2" diameter flexible conduit and a few insulated pipe clamps to hold it off the valve cover bolts. That way it will stay cooler.

Click on the link below and you can see how I ran it along the valve cover. I bought the conduit, but haven't run it yet.

_________________
Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

I just tested plugs wires 1, 2, and 3 with a sparkplug tester. I pulled the wire off the plug, plugged the sparkplug terminal into the plug wire, adjusted the gap on the tester and grounded the ground wire as the instructions stated. I ran a jumper from the + battery to the + coil terminal. Prior to cranking, I had 11.4 volts at the coil + terminal. I tried three attempts to crank the car, yet there was no spark on the sparkplug tester. WHY?

Should I buy new sparkplug wires or rewire the harness along the valve cover as Ted advised me. What do I need to rule out first?

I have changed everything except the sparkplug wires, coil to distributor high tension wire, distributor, and harness wires.