Hello Auto Transmission Sages.


I will be building a 904 for racing next year.

All of the internal stuff on the rebuild seems quite simple - Clutches, steels, bands, drums etc.

My questions relate more to Valve bodies, Fluid choice, and Most important, Torque Converters.

What do you recommend for these?? I think Eventually I would like to use a Reverse pattern manual valve body as this will be a full out racer with no street use. This might have to wait as budget allows.

The cam is going to be the Schenider 296-06F - 296* dur Intake and 306* exhaust. 108 * lobe separation with approximate power range 3200-6200 RPM


Transmission in question will be a 69 slant 6 904.
4.10 or 4.30 Gears out back with 26-28" Slicks.


Thanks,

Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Greg, you can get a manual valve body relatively cheap. Last time I checked a low band apply Griner was right at $200ish. A no low band apply Cheetah is probably about $50 less.

For a converter bite the bullet and get one made. Midwest did 2 for me, but any good converter company will build one to your specs.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

Or you can build your own, with a kit from T-flite Patty.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Well i probably would have no problem building my own, But what's the difference between low band apply and not, and Why would I care??

Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MOPAR-To ... otohosting


Looks like this is What i need from Torqueflight patty


Greg

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So I am guessing these 904 converters listed here are incorrect?

http://RaceConverters.com/categories/Pr ... oducts.asp

Those are for a v8?


Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Greg
You are correct about the V8 converters. As for low band apply it has to do with the sprag on the 904 can break and over speed the cluthes causing the 904 to greanade under the right(wrong) conditions. I wont say dont worry about it but most racers here in the south dont use the low band apply conversion. I guess for the $50 its good insurance.
Frank

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Scrapple: Because a mind is a terrible thing to waste.
73 Duster - Race Car
66 Dart Wagon - DD
178" FED
82 D150
All Slant powered

i think I will Go for a low band apply.. Evertually I will Get a A&A Bolt in sprag, but for now $50 dollars is better than a whole bunch of shrapnel.. I have been there with the stick car.. Not fun and it costs a whole lot more than $50 to Redo.


Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Greg, do not waste your money on a bolt-in sprag for a 904. The 904 sprag is riveted in already. (I have a bolt-in sprag for a 904 if you are dead set on one though) The bolt-in is mainly for a 727 where the sprag race just sits in splines. 904 just doesn't have the sprag issues that a 727 will. (And they are relatively rare in a 727)

Low band apply will tend to protect the trans if your destroy a driveshaft or ring and pinion in low gear. I ran a Cheetah w/o low apply for years and never had any issues at all. Biggest thing you have to remember is to NEVER get off and back on the gas in low gear.

What really happens if you roll a sprag w/o low band apply is that the front drum will immedialtely spin to 2.5 times engine RPM. That explodes the front drum with disasterous force. Slant motors just don't have the torque to damage a sprag and kill a drum.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

Dennis, that makes sense I have never been inside a 727 and therefore did not realize the sprag problem is more specific to them.


also If I decide to use a manual valve body will it shift at all through the gears by itself in "D" provided the kickdown is hooked up correctly??


Thanks,


Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

A manual valve body is just that. It will be in the gear you select. If you want automatic shifting you have to get a street/strip valve body. I wanted to try letting my car shift itself for consistency so I bought a Trans-Go TF-2 shift kit and reworked my own valve body. I have yet to put the trans in anything so I don't know the results. Doc says it takes some trial and error to get the 1-2 and 2-3 shifts to happen at the same RPM so I may end up shifting manually until it's dialed in. I have a ratchet shifter so I'm not worried about going past a gear or hitting neutral on shifts.

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Joshua

The manual/auto valve body will still require the kickdown linkage to be installed. A full manual does away with it.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.