EMS- nice picture! I think the dorks that had the car before me abused it.

Ted- I believe it. I couldn't believe that BOTH spider gears had three teeth sheared off. And there was another tooth getting ready to go on one of them.

Josh- I will send you a PM about that gear.

Thanks everybody! I hope this rear axle will last quite a while.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

what was strange is they didn't take the springs or swaybar guess they got interupted by a neighbor before they could get them I have no use for a thief at all

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Nothing beats a slant six
1987 D150

Been busy as all heck lately between my job and getting my 5th ave roadworthy again.

The rear axle vibration turned out to be caused by a cap coming off the rear u-joint. I installed the new u-joints but neglected to put the c-clips on the caps that are held in place by the rear axle yoke. My dumb mistake, can't blame anyone but myself.

I also removed the lean burn ignition and carb and swapped on an HEI system, an Edelbrock SP2P intake, and topped it off with a Holley 4360 carb. I still need to fine tune the motor and timing curve, but I think it won't have a problem lighting up the tires even with just a 2.94 rear gear ratio.

I forgot that the throttle linkage is different on smallblocks between the two and four barrel carb, and the air cleaner I had bought turned out to be too big to work with my A/C compressor. So, for now, the throttle is wired together with bailing wire (short term fix ONLY) and the air cleaner is the base of a cheesy aftermarket chrome air cleaner topped by the lame K&N air filtr that was on the car when I bought it and a "silenced" open element air cleaner off of a late 60s dart I parted out about 15 years ago. At least the air cleaner has a fitting for the breather.

All in all, it is a great feeling to have the car be running and driving again.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

glad o hear she is up and running again Reed

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Nothing beats a slant six
1987 D150

I need to try and get a burnout shot now...heh heh heh

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Must do burnout video. It's the modern era after all. Beat this!

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Joshua

Its hard to top having your own fan club! I will see what I can do with a tripod and a digital camera.

First I need to fine tune the motor though. I am using a distributor from an unknown application, and I set the base timing by guess since the factory timing is specced for the lean burn. I need to do a spark map because I think the vacuum advance is kicking in and causing a bog on acceleration. I did accidentally lay some stripes on my driveway backing out....

I think I will also be adding a relay to the HEI system, just to be safe.

Pictures:

The beginning:



The end:



The throttle held together by bailing wire:



A comparison of the stock two barrel intake runner sizes to the Edelbrock SP2P runners:



I can see why the SP2P would choke the motor at higher RPMs.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Joshie225,

What muffler do you have on your car? It sounds pretty quiet. Nice burn!
I bought new winter tires for the snow out here, no more burn outs for awhile.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Whew! Latest update:

Spent almost all day picking away at the projects I have on my 5th Ave. First up was the valve cover gaskets. Ever since I swapped intakes, the motor has leaked oil badly. I figured it was the valve cover gaskets since I had to lift the, to get the intake on. It wasn't too bad except for the rearmost bolt on the driver's side valve cover. The one tucked directly underneath the power brake booster.

Next up was installing the correct throttle linkage. I finally installed the proper four barrel throttle linkage and got rid of the bailing wire. I also adjusted the kickdown on the transmission.

Then came a major project- replacing the exhaust. The stock exhaust has three catalytic converters. The back of my exhaust line was totally rusted out, and I was fairly positive that all three of the cats were plugged. Fortunately, I found a guy selling an original exhaust line off of an Aspen R/T. It was 2 1/2 inches in diameter and had no cats. Unfortunately, it had been modified with an aftermarket muffler and changed to exit in front of the passenger rear tire.

All was going well until I slid the new exhaust system up to the manifolds to bolt it up. The driver's side was fine, but the passenger side was off. THe spread was about 1 inch two narrow. After cursing my stupidity, I set about cutting the new exhaust line and fitting it and then welding in a patch section of pipe over the part I cut.

I finally got it all back together at about 9 p.m. and fired it up. It is way too loud and the patch I made leaks. I am contemplating removing the rest of the AIR injection system and taking it to a muffler shop and telling them I bought it thios was from a kid who was trying to hot rod it and put on this crappy home-made exhaust line. I want to put a quieter muffler on it, as well as a resonator, and I want it to exit out the rear. Time to start saving up.

The upside is the motor runs noticeably smoother. I didn't take it for a test drive since it sounds like I don't have a muffler on it at all, but it idles much smoother now.

Two steps forwards, one step back...

Now the trick is to find a free flowing welded muffler that is nice an quiet.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

I am more concerned with quiet than welded or free flowing, but if I can score a Walker quiet-flow that will fit this oversized pipe and application, I will be a happy camper.

AND! To top it off, looks like I didn't fix the oil leak. I guess I need to pull the intake again and make sure that I get a thick enough bead of RTV gasket maker across the back of the intake manifold. The Edelbrock intake gasket set I bought didn't even come with the little cok gaskets to go on the front and rear of the intake. The instructions said to use a 1/4 inch bead of RTV gasket goo. Well, I did, and now it is leaking. I am hoping it isn't something like the rear main seal. But with my luck so far with this car....

Hopefully your using the black Ultra Seal. Just let it tack up good on both sides before you drop it back down.

I wish we could find a welded, long lasting, quiet muffler.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

I used the blue ultra seal. Would that cause a problem?

Reed,

I haven't used it because it is too much like silicone. I like a little tougher and heavier medium for sealing front and aft intakes, pans, timing chain covers, etc. I sealed the bottom end of my SL6 with the Ultra Black and no leaks, even with the 0-30W synthetic.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Hmmmm. Maybe I will pull the intake ( ) and replace the blue with black, or maybe copper.

I figured out the exhaust though! I am going to attach the new line to the old factory muffler and arch over the tailpipe. The second muffler and smaller diameter pipe should quiet things down nicely. Once I do that and get this dang oil leak fixed, most of the dirty nasty projects are done.