Do folks attempt to fill the oil filter with clean oil when they do an oil change?

I realize the filter being installed upside down makes this harder. However I find that the filter material soaks up quite a bit of oil so I don't make a mess when I install it.

Also, does the oil filter with the standpipe make this harder? easier?

No, I don't. I really don't think it is worth the hassle. I suppose you could fill the standpipe with oil with a funnel to partially fill the pump.

After an oil change with 0-30W Mobil 1 and a Wix/NAPA 1806 filter it hits 50 lbs oil pressure in about 2.5 seconds.
No engine noise in the 2.5 second wait either......

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

I work as a mechanic and change oil all the time. I fill the oil up until its full on the dip stick, run it for about 30 - 40 seconds, shut it off check the dip stick again and fill it the rest of the way. Some vehicles you can fill the filter with oil and screw it on, but a vehicle such as my truck I always do what I stated before. It wont hurt the engine. It only takes a second for the oil to circulate anyways. Just make sure you lube the oil seal on the filter up or you will have a fun time removing it next time!

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-- Mister Perkins --

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What I do is not fill the filter, but I do crank the engine over till I see pressure on my manual gauge before I let it start. I have an ignition kill switch, so it is easy to spin over without starting.

My previous engine (a 170) would rattle and knock on cold start for 3~5 seconds every time unless I pre-cranked it. That engine still ran when I pulled it after 20k hard street miles under my foot, total mileage on engine is unknown.



TopHat

Could have been the Fram filter on there.

Spiinning without ignition might wash the oil off the cylinders?

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'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's Hookers on jack stands for 8 years in the driveway
'79 Maxivan 360 Offy Qjet Comp RV cam/rusting in the driveway.
93 D350 160HP Cummins Auto Dually Clubcab needs a injector pump
2005 Golden Couch Buick

I just add a dollup into the filter and smear a bit on the gasket and stick it on...never thought about it, and never had a problem with oil pressure on fire up...

-D.Idiot

I pull the coil wire and spin it over about 10 seconds and then crank it up. Works for me. Thanks Ron Parker











Bee Good Or Bee Gone

Pegging the throttle wide open while cranking will keep fuel out, and thus not wash the cylinders clean.

~THOR~

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you'll get a million different answers to this question and never get your answer. I've been doing this for years in all my vehicles regardless of make or engine. However the /6 is alittle tricky with the filter downside up and oil spilling out, but as you said that the filter does soaks up alot of oil. I have even gone as far as filling the filter as fill as I can and let it sit for a couple minutes while I drain the pan, then fill it again and let that soak before installing it. There is no right or wrong in filling before installing, to each there own.

Here is another opinion I've heard - I believe this was from the author of that long oil article, the corvair owner - recommended NOT filling the filter at all because apparently theres no standard for cleanliness of the oil before it goes in the bottle. The theory is, if you fill the filter through the larger center hole, this is the "output" hole, so your engine will see dirty oil the first time the oil cycles. Unless you can get the filter filed through its input holes, but this will be a challenge because the flapper valve is there blocking them off.

Me personally - I fill it through the center hole a bit at a time until the soaking up stops and it puddles up. Then with ignition and fuel disabled (easy to do with EFI...) I keep cranking until oil light goes out, then fire it up. This cuts down on the cranking time to maybe 10 seconds.

On a dry filter comparison, wouldn't the ones with the standpipe take longer to pressurize the system?

No.

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Nope, no fram filters here, I switch between the Napa 1515, and the Napa 1806, I have a full height stand pipe so it makes no real difference. I use the 1806 when available to keep the mess to a minimum, especially to keep oil off the lower control bushing on that side.

The cylinders are mainly splash lubed, so I am not really worried about washing the cylinders during 10~15 seconds of cranking, I make sure NOT to hit the gas at all till just after I hit the ignition switch. The 170 I pulled still had good compression, 120 to 130 all across, so I don't think I hurt it, It just had a loose bottom end.



TopHat

tophat,

With a new oil pump (mine is two years old now since the rebuild) using the 0-30W Mobil 1 and the 1806 filter, the pressure hits 50 lbs quick like 2 seconds on start up after an oil change.
The 1806 built in stand pipe is taller than the tall stand pipe on the old oil pumps. It seems to fill immediately on start up after an oil change. No cranking required with the coil wire unplugged or filling the filter required.

I used to use 10-30 Valvoline and occasionally 20-50 Valvoline in hot weather and yes, you do hear some noise on start up. Not so with the 0-30W Mobile 1. The start up noise is gone......

_________________
Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG