I did the 8 1/4" rear this weekend and thought there would be enough room for the drive shaft to fit but then went back and read some post about this swap so I'm off to the drive shaft shop on Mon to get a shorter drive shaft or have them shorten this one. What would be recommended? Do I ditch the trunnion style and see if there is an adapter for the trans that would allow a regular splined/U joint setup shaft or just let them shorten this old one.
Thanks
Howard

_________________
65 4-door Dart
70 Chrysler 300
2004 Cummins Ram 3500
1968 Dart GT Convertible-project
Chordomafoundation.org

The tailshaft in the trans would have to be changed to use a slip yoke.

Shorten the one you have.

_________________
Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

You can do this conversion.
http://www.earlycuda.org/tech/ujoint.htm

_________________
Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

No, you don't have to change the tailshaft. The granny 4 speed has the same flange on the back and uses a slip yoke arrangement. A good driveline shop should be able to set you up with what ever you need.

Recommend you take this opportunity to go ahead with the cross-and-roller conversion linked by Charrlie_S. The ball-and-trunnion front joint can be rebuilt, but it is costly to do so and difficult to find some of the wear parts. Since you need to shorten the shaft anyhow, now's a great time to go for a long-term solution. I have this setup in my '62 and like it better than the original B/T joint.

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I'll talk-w-the drive shaft co. in the AM. I really can't spend a lot of $ on it right now but these guys have always been very inexpensive and good. They mostly deal with trucks/heavy equip but do any auto/truck work as well.
What is so bad about the B&T? It is a slant so power isn't an issue and I just replaced the boot. That was a joy to do w/o taking the pin out !
I got a synthetic replacement years ago and figured while I had it out I would relace the boot & look at the joint. It is all put together and looks good but I will still pursue the cross joint raplacement.

_________________
65 4-door Dart
70 Chrysler 300
2004 Cummins Ram 3500
1968 Dart GT Convertible-project
Chordomafoundation.org

Power and durability were never the issue. As I understand it, the Ball and Trunion joint was used behind at least some Hemi engines. The issue is availabilty of replacement/repair parts. They can be found but they are pricey.

_________________
David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.

The repair kits are costly and difficult to install, and they don't include the iron housing, which is itself a wear part and is very expensive if you can find it.

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I dropped my shaft off this AM. In speaking-w-the guy who does the work (Fleetpride is the Co.) he said he didn't have the flange fixture to do the B&T style but he could cut the 1.6" off the end and it shouldn't effect the balance and he could just use the center that is drilled into the end to press teh yoke into the shortened shaft. He then called me back to say there was no center drilled in the end so he needs to get the fixture from another branch so it will take 3-4 days to complete but this way he could also balance it when he is done.
This will cost about $60.00 and to do the Spicer style conversion would be about $200.00 and another week or so for the parts. I opted for the B&T for now.

_________________
65 4-door Dart
70 Chrysler 300
2004 Cummins Ram 3500
1968 Dart GT Convertible-project
Chordomafoundation.org