ok i have a 1984 dodge d100 pickup with a 225 slant six and A833 4sp ovrdrive trans. i want to get better gas milage. anyone have any clue?

Tune up, valve adjustment for starters. Do a thread search. There is alot of info on this website

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Thanks Mike

84=squishy lifter cam, no adjustment

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'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's Hookers on jack stands for 8 years in the driveway
'79 Maxivan 360 Offy Qjet Comp RV cam/rusting in the driveway.
93 D350 160HP Cummins Auto Dually Clubcab needs a injector pump
2005 Golden Couch Buick

Are you still LEAN BURN??? Do you have to be emissions checked?
Frank

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Scrapple: Because a mind is a terrible thing to waste.
73 Duster - Race Car
66 Dart Wagon - DD
178" FED
82 D150
All Slant powered

What are you getting now?I did the fuel line mod and the HEI conversion.The truck with auto and lockup went from a dismal 11mpg to 20mpg.Check the "stickies" on fuel line mod and HEI conversion.Once you have done those mods, play with the timing and carb settings.Just try to make the engine smoother and vacuum higher.Listen for ping[detonation]when adjusting timing,back timing down 4degrees from ping.Good luck.

i have the electronic fuel control thing on my air cleaner

how do i adjust the valves?

Unless someone changed the motor,your1985 has hydraulic lifters.No adjustment needed.The "thingy" is the computor to control the timing and on some the carb.http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=15779.

OK so you are still using the Lean Burn computer. DO you have to pass Smog/ Emissions tests where you are at???
Frank

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Scrapple: Because a mind is a terrible thing to waste.
73 Duster - Race Car
66 Dart Wagon - DD
178" FED
82 D150
All Slant powered

I'll ask it again: what do you get for mileage now?

It is a pickup truck, so you should expect mpg between perhaps 10 to 20 mpg. I would think that 17 to 19 mpg is a realistic number that is near the max you can expect...a open bed pickup is pretty much a shoe box traveling through space. Lots of air resistance there.

To really sort this out you need to get some good data, stuff like the following:

RPM of motor
Vacuum of motor
Fuel/air ratio (lamba)
etc

You can measure all of the above--which costs money...if you have that data you can tune your engine rather easily.

However, you can still improve your mileage without the above knowledge by applying those sound suggestions others have indicated. A proper tune up is the place to start...new plugs, check your plug wires...having the Leanburn still can be an issue since it does everything associated with timing, etc. If your Leanburn was in excellent condition it would probably be ok...I suspect it isn't given its age. So, electronic ignition...do the HEI swap or the MOPAR swap, either is way better than a poorly performing Leanburn.

Consider a replacement lower restriction exhaust. Figure out the rear end ratio and decide if it needs to go up or down numerically...I suspect up is the direction you want. Engines have "sweet spots" in their torque curves., you want your engine to stay in the sweet spot as much as possible--think about a 3.9:1 rear-end. As strange as it seems a higher numerical ratio can sometimes improve mileage, especially in a heavy vehilce like a truck.

Read the posts here...they help. And remember it is a truck, not a Prius. You can't really get much more out of a pickup truck than the low 20's for mileage in your beast. Go to the URL below to bound what you can get mileage wise:

[/url]http://www.fueleconomy.gov/Feg/best/bestworstEPAtrucksNF.shtml[url]
It is highly unlikely that you can do better than a throughly modern vehicle as far as mileage goes.

Finally, don't forget that your right foot is the ultimate mileage tool. I once varied my driving styles every so slightly and found I could change my mpg by more than 5 mpg, it was simply to make my mileage go down, much more difficult to make it increase consistently.

[/url]

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Slanted D150

How you drive it does make a huge difference. There was a recent story in the news about a bunch of hypermilers who took a bone stock, no mods Fusion hybrid and got a ridiculous 81mpg just by being anal about driving technique.

For the truck, your best cheap aid to this ends is a vacume gauge. Generally speaking - the higher the vacume the better the mileage.

Kip On Truckin'

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1965 Valiant wagon Turbo slant (work in progress)
2000 Chevy 155" cargo van - The Abductor
1970 Newport convertible
1996 Buick Roadmaster Wagon
1966 CruiseAire motor home
1990 Toyota 1 ton box truck TURBO slant (scraped)

Got the 83 D-150 out of winter storage this month,been to busy to get the engine mods done, so been driving it. Took it on a highway trip today, still have the vacuum gauge hooked to it from last December.
At 65 MPH, clocking about 2100 RPM in 4th gear,, have 6 inches of vacuum on the gauge, (vacuum goes to about 3 at full throttle while at speed) if I shift into third, and get to the same 65 MPH, RPMs increase to 2500, and vacuum increases to about 10. Does this mean that the throttle plates are actually open less in third than in 4th gear while at the same speed and I am getting better milage at the higher engine RPM?

6inshes is not good. My 6000lb van pulls 15-17 at 70mph sometimes better when the wind isn't blowing.

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'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's Hookers on jack stands for 8 years in the driveway
'79 Maxivan 360 Offy Qjet Comp RV cam/rusting in the driveway.
93 D350 160HP Cummins Auto Dually Clubcab needs a injector pump
2005 Golden Couch Buick

dizfunkshunul and DadTruck,

Besides a good tune up and relashing the valves you need more timing to get some power out of it....

DadTruck sounds like your tires are too big........
Example: I turn 2500 rpm at 60 mph with a 2.76 rear ratio using P235R 15 BF Goodrich T/A Radials on my Dart.
You must have an over drive, a high rear end ratio or over size tires to turn 2100 rpm in 4th gear.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG