===========================

Video 1:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XmxIduxU8hQ

Video 2:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w9F2oc9xjx4
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
around 1min 40 seconds is where it really acts up and you can hear it.




Well folks, I rebuilt the carb about 1 month ago.. I just replaced the accelerator pump cup today. I have an extra Rebuild kit (Standard). The truck will idle great. Revs up fine when in park. Drop it into drive and start going and i get up to about ehh.. 45 - 50 and it starts to cut out.. Sometimes 35. So i depress the accelerator pedal and ease into it again and it will either start bucking or just completely cut out. I know its getting fuel. Not sure about spark though. Its acting almost like its losing spark or something???? but if I let off the gas it will idle again perfect. Thought maybe it was condensation in the tank (water), so I put some dry gas into it and it still acted up. Right before it really messed up though was I took a trip to drop off the bed liner to a buyer about 30 minutes away. It was actually running great even though the accelerator pump was still trashed. Got up there, dropped it off, turned around and started heading back home. Got about 10 minutes away and I had to drive 35 the whole way home because it was cutting out so bad. I had to keep easing into the throttle and then when it would just start sounding like it was sucking air i would let off the throttle and it would idle again.. Truck has new fuel pump (electric), new dizzy, new plugs, new wires, new fuel lines all the way from the carb to tank. I checked the vacuum today and it was reading around 2 pounds per sq inch. Is this normal? On the gauge it reads NORMAL in green and in red it reads IGN TIMING OFF. It was sitting happily in green though.

I know I need to replace that old lean burn system with HEI.. I have the coil, just need to get a ballast resistor and vacuum advance dizzy. My best guess is the vacuum advance in the computer is starting to go.. or the computer it self. I know there is tests you can do to test the computer, but ide like to get some suggestions before i bring the old dodge bible out and start troubleshooting the ecm.

Thoughts suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

_________________
-- Mister Perkins --

Pictures of my truck
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3257131p

What, exactly, have you done to remove the lean burn so far? Are you still running the lean burn specific carburetor? Are the lean burn vacuum lines and sensors still hooked up correctle and functioning? Is the vacuum diaphragm on the lean burn computer ruptured or does it still hold a vacuum?

Have you checked the float level?

The HEi system does not require a ballast resistor.

Have you checked for any vacuum leaks, or maybe its a plug wire.
I had a bad plug wire, and when I got up to 45mph ,it would buck and shutter, I thought it was the tranny , I took it to the shop and it was a bad plug wire.



Dave

_________________
81 Dodge D150
It looked easier in the book .

haven't tried the plug wires yet. Its been about 3 months since i've replaced them though.. they should still be good? Everything on the carb that was emmissions I removed. The only thing hooked up is the vacuum amplifier, choke, and vacuum advance. Smog, charcol canaster, EGR valve all removed. EGR valve I machined a plate to cover it. I just dont get it. I suppose it wouldnt hurt to replace the plug wires again?

Carb is a Holley 1945. Had all the emissions bull crap on it.

_________________
-- Mister Perkins --

Pictures of my truck
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3257131p

I recorded two videos of my truck. One ideling revving it up and one driving it down the road. they are uploading to youtube right now and I will post links soon. !!

_________________
-- Mister Perkins --

Pictures of my truck
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3257131p

Err, no. I've had bad ones straight out of the box. Ditto for champion spark plugs. Check them plugs too. A plug wire will show itself to be bad when under severe load, and sometimes if they are really bad, they will show up at idle (in the dark).
Exactly how did you do that?
If you don't have EGR, you don't need the vacuum amplifier. Did you plug the charcoal canister lines when you removed it? Might be causing a fuel delivery problem due to building up vacuum in the tank. You didn't really need to make a plate to cover the EGR; just flipping it 180 degrees does the same thing.
The emissions 1945 is crap.

_________________
If it was easy, everybody would be doing it.

Well .. thats really good to know I didnt need the vacuum amplifier.. I bought carb caps from the local speed shop. Capped every vacuum line that came off that was hooked up to the EGR valve, charcol canaster, smog pump except for the bowl vent.

quick question. When I timed my truck today, by the book it says to time it at 16. Manual is 12. But anyways, having all of the emissions crap plugged off will that change what the timing should be?

_________________
-- Mister Perkins --

Pictures of my truck
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3257131p

When I got my truck from my grandfather, the vacuum line to the diaphram on the lean burn was disconnected, when I connected it , it barely stayed running.I left it unplugged until I rebuilt the carb.
Its funny how people start pulling and swapping vacuum lines ,until it runs better :shrug:
Nothing to do with this post,it just popped in my head


Dave

_________________
81 Dodge D150
It looked easier in the book .

Yeah I did check for vacuum leaks. I used a liquid nitrogen smoke machine with the carb capped and there was no leaks. Then I ran a vacuum gauge on the whole vacuum system and everything checked out alright as far as I can tell. It was in the green GOOD section running about 2lb. per sq in.

_________________
-- Mister Perkins --

Pictures of my truck
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3257131p

Hmmm... how is your coil? Fuel pump? Power source?

_________________
If it was easy, everybody would be doing it.

If you have any carb cleaner , I would start the engine and spray the cleaner around the engine and carb, to check for any vacuum leaks. When it gets dark get a friend start the engine , put it in drive ,keep foot on brake and press the gas, and see if you see any sparks.

Dave
I ran off while writing, before your checking vacuum leak post

_________________
81 Dodge D150
It looked easier in the book .

Coil is new. fuel pump is a new electric 4-7Psi. Not sure what you mean on power source? The ECM controls the coil and Dizzy and has 12V output if thats what your asking?



As far as the carb cleaner, the Liquid nitrogen smoke is actually to check EVAP systems, but works great on vacuum too. All you do is hook it up to a vacuum line with a "T" connector, hold the button and wait for smoke. if there is no smoke, there is no vacuum leaks.

Haven't tried to run it at night though yet. will do that tonight.
...

video is still uploading. Video 2 is the one that you guys might want to check out. if you roll towards the end of the movie you can hear what its doing. Sometimes it jerks, other times it just acts like its not getting spark.

_________________
-- Mister Perkins --

Pictures of my truck
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3257131p

Do you have a fuel pressure gauge , it would be hard to check while driving though. maybe your fuel pump is acting up also

Dave

_________________
81 Dodge D150
It looked easier in the book .

Its alright

I like your idea of running it in drive at night though and looking for sparks. Only thing is it seems to be acting up only when its at a certain speed. Do you think the kickdown linkage could be a culprit? I dont think its ever been replaced and I'm pretty sure its out of adjustment. Maybe its trying to kick down too much or too little?

Yeah I ran a low pressure fuel gauge on it last week just to double check and it was running at a constant 5Psi. The nice thing about having an electric fuel pump is if it starts sucking air you can hear it tapping real hard. I do need to install another electric pump at the tank though because when I first turn the ignition on and the pumps flip on they tap real hard for about 5 seconds. If I had another pump right at the tank that other electric pump wouldnt have to work as hard..

I should run an in cab fuel gauge just so I can monitor it. I think we might be getting somewhere with the fuel. Maybe when the engine starts running harder, maybe the electric pump isnt pumping at a constant 5psi? It sure would be nice to be able to run an in cab fuel pressure gauge. Maybe I could just hook it up at the carb and T it off and take the hood off and drive it




===========================

Video 1:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XmxIduxU8hQ

Video 2:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w9F2oc9xjx4
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
around 1min 40 seconds is where it really acts up and you can hear it.

_________________
-- Mister Perkins --

Pictures of my truck
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3257131p

Not sure about the kickdown linkage.
Have you tried maybe driving it in low 1 0r2 instead of drive ,and see what it does.

_________________
81 Dodge D150
It looked easier in the book .