Newport77,

It's probably just the needle and seat not shutting off the fuel. You have to rebend the tab on the float to adjust for the right height. On real hot summer days it is good to adjust for a little more pressure on the seat to keep it from leaking and causing the the fuel to over flow.

Here are a couple of ideas.......first you can install a fuel pressure gauge before the carb, see the last photo on the link below. I took that shot while drag racing. WIth the hood open and the sun shining in the gauge went up to 15 pounds or so just from the heat while waiting in line. I had installed a needle and seat that was metal on metal so the ethanol isn't deteriorating the usual rubber tip on the needle, which keeps the fuel from coming in very well. Starts at the line were very crisp all the time even when we had to wait 20 to 40 minutes. They had blown engine clean up, replace lights on the tree, etc...

The second idea is running an electric fan. I leave mine armed after shut down so when heat soak starts the fan automatically kicks on and runs to cool the engine and carb down, thus minimizing heat soak and carb boiling and flooding problems. On 90 degree plus days my engine starts up with a bang and is not affected by the problem.

The third idea, is on the aluminum heat deflecter I run a 1/2" thick gasket above and below it to insulate the carb. The aluminum not only reflects the heat but acts like a heat sink and when the electric fan kicks on it cools down very quickly.

Hope these (3) ideas help you.

Click on the red link below and then click on the picture to blow it up full screen size into slide show mode. Reference the last picture. I moved the fuel pressure gauge to the carb line right off the fuel filter. Then I could see the higher seat pressures the carb was seeing and not just the fuel pump output. All three upgrades work well together to minimize the heat soak effects. We had four Darts back to back in a row in our line and some had a hard time starting after the long waiting times between rounds. Mine always fired immediately. I couldn't get my hand off the key fast enough........

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

The funny thing is that viton-tipped inlet needles were introduced in '61 as a major seal/shutoff improvement over the previous metal-on-metal items. Ethanol doesn't degrade the type of viton used in standard inlet needles; the metal-on-metal needles are needed when running methanol.

'Course, that assumes that the rubber tip on the inlet needle is actually the correct grade of viton. In this day and age of even name-brand suppliers providing the cheapest possible part, and rampant counterfeiting, that might not necessarily be a good assumption. Buy carb parts and kits from reputable, high-endy suppliers.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

These are all good ideas.
I did rebuild the carb a while back (maybe 2years ago) at which time it got everything new, including the needle and seat- but I did not replace the float because, then and now, I was having trouble finding one.

This is why I am assuming it's the float.
However, it couldn't hurt to try your suggestion.

I actually have done some work to try to shield the carburetor from heat.
I got a heat deflector off an 81 Cordoba with a slant 6 and put that on there. That helps somewhat.

I also re-routed the fuel line so that it wouldn't be near anything hot. I didn't do it exactly the way Dan suggested, using plastic fuel injection hose and all of that, but it is routed better than it was.

Some of these things did help to a certain extent.

I'm just figuring the float is old, and it couldn't hurt to put in a new one anyway.

But I may try some of the things you suggested as well- so thank you.

-newport77 (Scott)