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 Post subject: the machine shop
PostPosted: Tue Sep 01, 2009 3:02 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Location: hillsborough NC
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ok tryed to take my head to the machine shop today and i learned some stuff.

the main things the guy said was that
1. polish it more
2. the 1.70 1.44 valves wouldn't help none cept in the high rpms
3. he would only take it .050 off the head because of clearance issues with the intake and header combo and becouse of messing up the push rods

so this goes like the opposite of everything i've herd on here and what do yall think i mean this is my first slant build and i'm not sure what to do

like this is a hot engine erson 270 cam headers 4bbl intake and a 390 but i dont know what to do

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1973 plymouth duster 225 slant six .30 over, erson 270 cam, 9.5 to 1 compression, big valves, headers, and a holley 4 bbl
http://cardomain.com/ride/3135091

hey that thing got a hemi? naw its just a slant six


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 01, 2009 3:57 pm 
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Guru
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You should try another machine shop... the person you talked to does not know anything about a SL6 and is trying to apply his V-8 knowledge to a Slant.

Example: If you machine a lot of material off the heads of a hydraulic lifter, V-8 you will mess-up intake manifold alignment and hydraulic lifter pre-load. (Pushrods become to long) but a mechanical lifter SL6 does not have those issues.

Example # 2: a SL6 head and valve size was designed for a 170 CID engine and yes, if you put O/S valves into a head going onto a 170, you trade some bottom end response for more high RPM flow. When you put O/S valves into a head going onto an engine that flows 25% more air, (225) it really responds well.
DD


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 01, 2009 5:51 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Location: hillsborough NC
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thaks doc im gonna just tell him what i want done and not worry bout it

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1973 plymouth duster 225 slant six .30 over, erson 270 cam, 9.5 to 1 compression, big valves, headers, and a holley 4 bbl
http://cardomain.com/ride/3135091

hey that thing got a hemi? naw its just a slant six


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 01, 2009 5:53 pm 
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Do you have the ability to check his work after it is done? He has already proven he does not know what he is talking about. :?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 01, 2009 5:54 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Location: hillsborough NC
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slantzilla u lost me but i think you might mean measure the head with a caliper? am i right i could just do befor and after checks

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1973 plymouth duster 225 slant six .30 over, erson 270 cam, 9.5 to 1 compression, big valves, headers, and a holley 4 bbl
http://cardomain.com/ride/3135091

hey that thing got a hemi? naw its just a slant six


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 01, 2009 7:40 pm 
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TBI Slant 6
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Location: Orlando, FL
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I like Docs suggestion.

Really, it depends on the customer relationship you have with him. He might honor your request and do a good job or he might be peeved that you didn't listen to him, doing a sloppy job and messing up your build.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 02, 2009 3:49 am 
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Quote:
slantzilla u lost me but i think you might mean measure the head with a caliper? am i right i could just do befor and after checks
You may be able to do just that. Maybe lay the head on a flat surface and sink a dial or verneir caliper down thru a head bolt hole until it hits bottom? Record and remeasure after machine work.
Better to measure combustion chamber volume which is what you're trying to modify anyway. Who is your machine shop? Lou and I had great success with Boyette's Machine in Raleigh. IIRC, Rock (another board member) has a great deal of experience with those guys as well. Great work, nice folks, clean older shop (40+ years?) and quick turnaround last time I was in.

-James

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 02, 2009 8:24 am 
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3 Deuce Weber
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I think I would try to find a shop that better understands what you are trying to do. Personnaly I think I would take a light clean-up cut on the head and focus on unshrouding the larger valves. I would raise compression by cutting the deck on the block. Read some of Doc's articles on heads and blocks before spending money.

Just my 2 cents.

Scott M


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 02, 2009 9:56 am 
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Even when you tell them what you want they don't listen. I gave "grind to" crank measuerments for every journal including tolerances. They ignored me and used their book because they know better. Fortunately, I was able to move rods & bearing combos around to get very close to my final desired clearances.

I will not be going back to them again.

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Last edited by Shaker223 on Wed Sep 02, 2009 3:24 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 02, 2009 2:16 pm 
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I agree with James. Boyette's is worth the trip to get it right. It is tough to find a good shop.

I drive 60 min to the far side of Roanoke for my work after trying a couple of crap local shops.

Lou

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 02, 2009 4:00 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 17, 2002 7:27 pm
Posts: 14585
Location: Park Forest, Illinoisy
Car Model: 68 Valiant
I send my stuff to Nebraska. :shock:

I got burned twice by the local Mopar "guru". Never again will I darken his door. :oops:

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 03, 2009 7:35 am 
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Turbo Slant 6

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Location: Raleigh, NC
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Hey slanting,

I've been asked to look at work from a shop in Hillsborough and one in Creemoor. Don't mess around, drive to Raleigh to Boyette's. Family owned since the 1930's, did all the slant six taxi fleet work around Raleigh for nearly 30 years, and you can just sit and talk with them at lunchtime if you want. THey are great at telling you what happens in one thing if you change another, and they are a performance shop as well.

rock
'64d100


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