Dave,

Call them up.....they will ship a new one direct shipped to your house. I have had them send me several. The auto parts houses love to drop them on the floor on end. I have had to return a few Fel-Pro's because they were crushed or bent.

If the plugs are all black with UR4's, I would definitely replace the valve guide seals. That is a hot plug.

How many miles are on this engine?

When everything is back together check to see what the voltage is at your coil. I see 10 volts at an idle with the orange ECU and Blaster 2 coil and the .85 ohm resistor that comes with it. Hope fully you won't be in the 4 to 5 volt range. My plugs used to run pretty dark at the lower voltages right after the new rebuild..

_________________
Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Dave
Did I see you saying you were running the engine but not driving the truck? If that is the case I wouldnt worry about anything til you start driving it.
Frank

_________________
Scrapple: Because a mind is a terrible thing to waste.
73 Duster - Race Car
66 Dart Wagon - DD
178" FED
82 D150
All Slant powered

So Ted even though I got the gasket from Amazon ,, if I get in contact with Remflex they will exchange it?

Dave

_________________
81 Dodge D150
It looked easier in the book .

I want to make sure everything is good before I put the exhaust and intake back on. Is there suppose to be any kind of grease looking oil residue in any of the exhaust or intake ports, because looking at it more, all of the intake ports look greasy looking.If you think it would be best to pull the head ( can I pull it myself?)and put in new valves and seals ,I will.How much does the head weigh, and if I do change out the valves and such, what all needs to be done.


Thanks
Dave

_________________
81 Dodge D150
It looked easier in the book .

I know this is getting old for everyone, but I was talking to my father in law , and he said I could check the compression without the exhaust and intake on, so if that is the case, I guess I will try that ,and if the compression is good , just leave it alone for the time being.

Dave

_________________
81 Dodge D150
It looked easier in the book .

Dave,

I would return the gasket set to Amazon however, Remflex may tell you other wise.....give them a call. They provided super service........they sent another set free.

You can check compression with out the manifolds. If the valve seals (boots) are not down on the guide boss and have slide up the valves, they don't do much good. That is why your seeing some oil. The guides may be worn allot too! You can put on new boots for now and run it another 60,000 or so.......then rebuild the head later. The head weighs about 60 pounds.

To speed things up if the compression test show all the cylinders at 120 lbs, or better I would just leave the head on there and change the boots.

_________________
Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Thanks Ted,
On the boots , I read that you do not push them all the way down ,is this right?


Dave

_________________
81 Dodge D150
It looked easier in the book .

Dave,

No, you push them all the way down over the guide boss. They stick in place (friction fit) when they are new. As they get old and crack the will slide up or just break apart into chunks.

Get your manual out and take a look at them or go to the auto parts and look at a bag of them. The rubber just goes to pot after so many heat cycles.

_________________
Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Ok , I wanted to make sure . In the manual I read, it said not to push down flush to the bottom, so if it is ok ,then I will push them flush.

Thanks
Dave

_________________
81 Dodge D150
It looked easier in the book .

Well, I finally had a chance to check the compresion.The lowest compression was the first and it was 165 and the rest was between 170 and 177 ,so that is good. I think I am going to take the head off and clean everything up while most is taken apart.
As long as the valves are not burned ,should it be ok to just clean them up and put them back in, and where would be the best place to get the seals?

Thanks for everyones help
Dave

_________________
81 Dodge D150
It looked easier in the book .

no need to pull head to do seals....get a two feet of 3/8 rope...remove plugs....thread most rope in plughole turn engine by hand till it stops...remove spring, (i have a small spring compressor) think it was napa....r & r seal ...replace spring reverse rotation of motor ,remove rope....you did leave some sticking out didnt you?????LOL next hole


keep on roddin'

hantayo13,
I am going to clean up the ports and valves , since there were some oil that got down in the ports and on the valves, and since I already have the exhaust manifold off, what the heck.

Thanks
Dave

_________________
81 Dodge D150
It looked easier in the book .