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 Post subject: Brake Questions
PostPosted: Sun May 25, 2003 7:55 pm 
I finished the front suspension rebuild and also completely redid the brakes...master cylinder, booster, rotors, calipers, hoses, and pads. The brakes seem to always be on in the front. With the foot off the pedal, it is hard to spin the wheel. I haven't completely bled them because I need to do the rears now. Is this normal? Will they "settle in" after awhile? On the rear drum brakes, any good ways to pull the drums? I backed the shoes off, sprayed penetrating oil and tapped on the drums but they won't budge. Thanks all. Mike.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun May 25, 2003 9:25 pm 
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Joined: Sat Feb 08, 2003 2:37 pm
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I couldn't get my rear drums off once... then I realized I hadn't released the e-brakes ;)


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 Post subject: No e-brakes
PostPosted: Mon May 26, 2003 7:10 am 
Actually, the cables are all broken on mine and need to be replaced. Plus, the drums spin freely. Even at that I backed the shoes off quite a bit more. On my 1950 Chevy, I had to use a huge puller and considerable effort. I don't want to go that route except as a last resort for fear of damaging something...although I may very well have to replace the drums anyway. Thanks.....I certainly have done more than my share of things like that....the other day, I managed to squirt WD-40 into my eye because I had it pointed wrong, then I smelled this nasty smell and realized that I had singed my hair on the trouble light....I may get my own personalized coffee mug in the ER like Tim Taylor has. Thanks, any bright ideas on busting the drums loose would be appreciated. Also, what of those front brakes that are all new but seem to be constantly gripping.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon May 26, 2003 1:05 pm 
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Ahh discs in the front... possible the proportioning valve is messed up and sending too much pressure to the front?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon May 26, 2003 1:53 pm 
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Joined: Sat Oct 12, 2002 11:22 am
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Location: Sonoma, Calif.
Car Model: Many Darts and a Dacuda
Rear drums sometimes get rusted-on to the center axle register.
What I do to free them up is to wack the area in between the studs with a hammer. It sounds pretty crude but it sends enough shock through the drum to crack loose the rust "weld joint" that has developed between the drum and axle flange.
DD


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 Post subject: Good Point
PostPosted: Mon May 26, 2003 6:24 pm 
Good point on the proportioning valve...the brake light is still on as I have not bled the rears. I did try banging on the drums between the studs. I keep spraying WD-40 and banging away. Maybe I just have to keep at it. Thanks.

Mike


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon May 26, 2003 11:24 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 1:49 pm
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Location: Lubbock, TX
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Time for a bigger hammer. :shock: I have heard that Coca Cola also works as a penitrating fluid.


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