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 Post subject: Tow Bars
PostPosted: Sun Oct 18, 2009 12:03 pm 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Thu Mar 08, 2007 12:22 pm
Posts: 106
Location: Prescott Valley Az
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Any input on the use of tow bars?I don't own a trailer and my shop truck really don't like all the extra weight of a trailer plus another vehicle stacked on it.I saw a tow bar reasonably priced and thought that would be a good option.I can put my tools,jack,slicks ect.. in the bed of my truck and just tow bar the car (unless I crash it or bust a axel)Are they stable at highway speeds?I see motor homes towing with them all over.Do you need to remove the drive shaft or can you just put the vehicle in netrual.Just a option fo me so I don't have to worry about gettin home if I break a motor or something. :?:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Oct 18, 2009 3:52 pm 
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Supercharged

Joined: Thu May 12, 2005 11:50 pm
Posts: 6291
Location: So California
Car Model: 64 Plymouth Valiant
1. You need a good attachment up front of the towee
2. Make sure the towee's steering is free so the front wheels can caster
3. You can't back up the towee
4. Manual transmissions can be left in neurtral
5. You should disconnect an automatic transmissions driveshaft unless it's a short tow.
5a. You might be able to leave an old automatic (with the rear pump) connected :?: :?: :?:

They're stable, I've towed heavier cars than my toyota truck weighs.

You'll get a slight push from the towee when cornering as there's a delayed reaction for the towee's front wheel castering.

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64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Oct 18, 2009 5:50 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sat Feb 16, 2008 1:25 pm
Posts: 5611
Location: Downeast Maine
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I think if you let the towed vehicle idle in neutral while under tow it shouldn’t need the drive shaft removed if it is an automatic.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Oct 19, 2009 6:50 am 
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Board Sponsor & SL6 Racer
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Joined: Sun Jul 30, 2006 8:36 pm
Posts: 2432
Location: East Arkansas
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Dont tow a Auto without removing the drive shaft if your towing over 45 mph or 5 mile (either one). You will burn up the trans, trust me.
Frank

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 Post subject: Tow Bars
PostPosted: Wed Oct 21, 2009 2:22 pm 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Sun Mar 28, 2004 2:48 pm
Posts: 206
Location: Phoenix, Arizona
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>Dont tow a Auto without removing the drive shaft...<

Is this true with the '65 and earlier transmissions? They have a rear pump.

--Walt Jackson


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Oct 22, 2009 8:23 am 
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Board Sponsor & SL6 Racer
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Joined: Sun Jul 30, 2006 8:36 pm
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Location: East Arkansas
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Walt I dont think I would try it. I have heard it both ways yes and no. But in my OP its not worth frying a tranny.
Frank

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Oct 22, 2009 11:45 pm 
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Site Admin
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Joined: Mon Mar 31, 2003 1:04 pm
Posts: 7426
Location: Oregon
Car Model: 2023 Eichman Digger?
Define highway speeds. A motor home has quite a bit more mass than the Geo hooked on back.
I had an electrician friend that had his manual transmission mini-pickup pop into gear behind his motor home. The tow back from Reno to the Mid-Willamette valley completely borked the engine and transmission. It was a Mazda Rotary. It was a throw away at that point.

Speed when using a tow bar needs to modulate with terrain, road surface, weather and etc.

While I'm sure some folks have had good luck towing vehicles of similar or greater weight than the tow vehicle, I wouldn't under most conditions other than moving something disabled a short distance at low speed.

The longest flat tow on my record was from Florida home to Oregon, and then back across to Chicago, visiting the Grand Canyon, and various mountainous regions. I used a 3/4 ton van to pull a Celica for a fellow squid. Dropping into Oregon on 140 in second gear, (Manual) brake on with both feet by the bottom, I couldn't get under ten miles an hour. (We were running heavy.) There was a cow standing in the middle of the road, and smoke was rolling out of the rear drums. Fortunately I managed to get around it. There was swearing involved.

The truck ruts in low speed lanes made the combination unstable and hard to keep going straight. By the time we got to Chicago, I'd beat the main bearings out of my small block. Uneven concrete slabs on I-10 in the gulf states and some of the secondary access roads elsewhere caused a tremendous tendency to porpoise. It beat the snot out of the bottom end of the engine. I had to drop a new engine in that fall.
With an automatic transmission the engine would have been buffered somewhat from the sudden changes in load. Three on the tree wasn't an ideal situation in my case.

For long distances, I recommend against it. It's uncomfortable, and tense. If you have to go that route, keep your speed reasonable, and avoid roads that are known to be poor, or under construction if possible.

Ask Doc about Diesel spills on off-ramps. :shock:

CJ

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