Hello all, so here is my problem. I have 1982 D150 with the 225 in it, I just got the super six intake on it and I have a Weber 38/38 DGES that I can't figure out for the life of me. I put new idle jets in it size 60 if I'm not mistaken, and 150 main jets and 160 air corrector jets. I went up on the idle jet because it wouldn't idle unless I turned the idle speed screw in more than 1/2 turn, and it had a terrible bog at about 2000 rpm which Weber said was due to the idle jet being to small and it is running off the wrong circuit, so after I changed the jets, the idle was a bit better but I still had the bog at around 2000. So my next step was to check the float and I did, I got conflicting specs but I set it to be 18mm from the carb surface with gasket in place and with 2mm of needle movement max (it has about 1-1.5mm right now.) So I was hoping somebody out there who has used this carb had any advice or baseline settings that I could start at because I don't think I am really getting anywhere. Off to the bookstore now to read or buy the Weber Book. Any advice would be great.[/i]

Float level and float drop measurements are done without gasket. 1.5mm needle motion is too small, I usually see about 3mm when correctly set to DGES specs. I think this is referred (not sure and could not find the specs *specifically* for DGES, well, to the settings for DGV series (diagrams: http://www.racetep.com/carpics/wegerf.gif )

DGES is a sync opening carb that both throttles opens at same time. This means all jets have to be exact twins.

Second, idle jet 60 is really fat for that carb and same with other jets.

Second, fuel/air mixture screws have to be adjusted exact same time on both sides, little at a time, look at it this way as twin carb in one unit.

DGES is a performance carb for racing/high power, less on streetabilty.
Probably you can get this tamed, but we need more details you are planning with this truck? Hooked up to vacuum advance on your distributor? Base ignition timed correctly with timing gun?

This is reason I chose dual barrel progressive weber carb for MPG, streetablity and extra power if needed that secondary barrel provides.
That said carb is 32/36 DFEV.

Cheers, Wizard

I bought the 38/38 because when I was doing my research I got the opinion that if you ever want to do any mods to the head or put a different cam in or basically any mods, the 38 was the way to go. Right now the truck is stock, I removed the lean burn and did the HEI ignition, but other than that the truck is stock. Later on down the road I do plan on doing some head work and putting a different cam in but I really haven't decided on any of that yet, I just want to get it running well first. But yeah the vacuum advance is hooked up and the timing is spot on. I took the carb off and bought a weber book so right now I am just making sure everything is in spec, for starters, the float was about 10mm off.

I would like to hear more of your experiences with the 32/36 Weber.

Ray

Tip in bog occurs when you are moving from idle screw then thru transition slot (that's what idle jets are) then onto mains jets when fuel begins to rushing out of the venturis that fuel/air mixture across range of throttle openings too uneven. The air jets sets the mixture at mid to upper range of HP (slant six around 5500-6000 rpm IIRC).

Throttle transitions through from idle to WOT in transition sequence: idle mixture screw(s), air jet (via both idle mixture screw and transition slot/holes) then beginning of main jet at low-mid opening, then mid opening air jet starts to come in while main jet is now fully flowing full blast and at WOT reason air jet is there to keep main jet from being overdrawn and going rich.

Try 50 or 55 idle jets (57 available) since your idle mixture screws are screwed in too far (too rich on that idle jets). Should be around 1-1/2 turns range but not more than 2 turns.
TIP: idle screws turned far too out is too lean idle jets. If idle screws turned in too far, too rich idle jets.

Sequence of tuning: idle jets, then main jets then air jets. main and air jets does interact a little but you should be fine if you are methodical with tuning at specific points of throttle openings where certain jets is in play.

I was not sure what you have been mentioning about too lean. But too rich makes engine blubber/gurgle kind of exhaust sound/intake sounded odd and lose some power softly, while too lean make engine miss and buck and almost die if engine not hot enough when this happens, while extremely lean either engine simply die, or ping if just a touch too lean.

PS: webers I find they tend to like bit extra touch of base ignition advance at idle. 6 to 8 even 10 degrees is not unusual with webers.

And how is manifold vacuum at idle? Taking care of air leaks is critical, your vacuum gauge will tell you much, also it will tell you how well mixture is. Also having wide-band O2 setup (whole kit, does include sensor and gauge, box to take care of wide-band O2 sensor is about 300 and worth every cent of it). I have version of mine installed myself and I was still wondering why I had not bought one much eariler.

Ah, my 32/36 DFEV carb? Excellent! When I had my friend drive my caravan round trip to get shocks/strut replaced, friend said mine is nicest car to drive even it is a carb. That's interesting since friend had carbed vehicles and had a late dual carb aircooled VW vanagon.
MPG is excellent even it is city (19-20) for 1987 2.2L caravan.
I'm watching your thread with great interest as I have this tip-in little hole if I'm not prepared for it, van simply lose all it's motivation and rough, back off and gently roll trottle in to get some power to move (so engine don't fall flat on rpm (need good flow of air) or get lucky if I shove throttle more and wait for engine to shudderingly catch and rev up till engine get hot enough. The hole is STILL there, as small notch at tip-in when hot. Still working on that as I have not installed distributor with vacuum & mechanical advance. Van is still running on computer controlled ignition.

Cheers, Wizard

Hi. I have recently searched the net for info on those Holley/Weber carbs because my BBD's for my '77 Aspen Wagon are all worn out. I found a couple of sites with lots of info, and I recall reading about a bog problem around 2000 rpm. It was related to the 32/36, but since it basically is the same carb, you may pick up on some good tips there.
http://datsun1200.com/modules/mediawiki ... Carburetor
and
http://www.mazdatruckin.com/B2200/5200.html
Lots of tips for adjustment when you follow their internal links.
Wanna see some really hot intakes? Take a look at what they do 'down under' in Australia:
http://www.hotsixes.com,
http://www.aussiespeed.com and
http://www.pentastarparts.com.au/classic/blown-225.html
Gentlemen, you may start your drooling now...
Olaf.

Forgot to mention that the Holley/Weber carb is a bit fuzzy about the fuel pressure, you may need a regulator in the fuel line. Olaf.

Yes, 3~3.5PSI.

Cheers, Wizard

Hmm. I was asking about fuel regulators for the Holley/Weber a few weeks ago, and was told firmly that they weren't necessary. Yet, I seem to remember reading conflicting statements in the past. Could we have more users chime in on this?

What kind of fuel regulator? Can you provide a link?

The datsun link mentioned above says ~2,5 - 3,0 psi, and so does the Redline Weber service manual, they even use the word 'critical'!
[url] http://www.redlineweber.com/html/Tech/3 ... akdown.htm [/url]
Olaf.

Thanks for the info, I have been super busy between work and school but I have the next two days off so I will be working on the truck. I got the carb all in spec according to the weber book, and I am going to test the fuel pressure and if need be install a fuel pressure regulator tomorrow.