I'm trying to figure out this miss I have going on here. Got this motor from a guy who had a Pertronix ign in it. He didn't give me the distributor but to my surprise, the distributor that came with the car I'm putting it in has a Pertronix ign as well. Not sure which Pertronix since I've never messed with one.

Now I've got a red wire coming from the ballast and going to the distributor. The black wire from the distributor is going to the negative ternimal on the coil (no idea what kind of coil either). Theres a blue wire going to the + side of the coil and it looks like it's coming from the ballast resistor as well. Theres also a little condensor looking deal thats attached to the coil bracket and it has a wire going to the + coil terminal. Never seen one of these hooked up in person so I don't know if thats correct or not.

I've got the thing timed at 8* BTDC and I can tell the motor and timing is fine, it's just it has this miss to it that I can't figure out. I changed the plugs. Changed out two different sets of wires, as well as a new cap. I know all about tuning them up and how HEI is better and all that. I just don't really have any funds to spend on this unless I absolutely need them to fix what I have. Anyone know what could be up? I have a feeling its the way the ignition is hooked up but I don't know anything about this system.

Check here.http://www.pertronix.com/support/manuals/default.aspx

Thanks, looks like its connected correctly but I still don't know why theres a condenser attached to the coil.

If I pull the plug wires off one by one and it changes the idle every time, does it mean I'm not dealing with a miss?

yes that means no miss ..if you pull and not change there is miss....condesner on coil could be static suppressor for radio

keep on roddin'

Once you're certain that it isn't an electrical problem, you might want to check for a vacuum leak. Carter BBD's are notorious for leaking around the throttle plate shafts at the bottom of the carb.

Best of luck,

Joe

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Joe Hoppe

71 D100 225 Super Six 727 AT on 2008 Crown Vic CopCar frame

64 Valiant Wagon 225 904 AT 3:23 8.75"

If you want to check for the leaky throttle shaft.Take a product like white lithium and spray it on both sides where shaft enters throttle body.If idle changes there is a leak.I suggest this over the other methods using flammable sprays.The spark point of lithium is higher.

Still can't figure it out. It's like a slight backfire/coughing out the tail pipe and its pretty constant.

It's a Holley 1920 and with the vacuum gauge connected I get about 17-18hg. Not perfect but not enough to be the problem either. Did a valve adjustment and that did nothing to help. Have two 1920's that I put kits in and both run about the same with neither helping the problem. Loosened the bolt on the bottom of the distributor but it doesn't run any better whether I'm at 15*btdc or 10*atdc, or anything in between. Have it set at 5* BTDC right now just to be safe. The timing mark is correct and I know I'm on the compression stroke.

The only slight problem I see is theres a small exhaust leak coming from the runner with the choke thermostat. Theres a little bit of liquid bubbling up through it. Not sure what it is but that can't be normal. Could that be the cause of the problem? I'm at a loss here and would like some input on what you guys think.

Does your exhaust manifold have the bolt-in choke pocket?

Are you saying that you have liquid bubbling out of a gap in the exhaust manifold? To me, that suggests a pretty bad head gasket leak or a possible cracked head, but the exhaust is so hot that most liquids are usually vaporized before they get into the exhaust manifold. Have you done a compression check yet?

No it has the closed choke pocket. I did a compression check when I bought it from the guy a couple months ago and it was pretty much 120 across the board. Thing is there wasnt an exhaust leak either because we were in a semi closed garage with it running and I never noticed it at all.

Its just some very slight bubbling coming out of the top of the runner where it meets the head. I've got extra head gaskets here but I've never changed one before. Is it as easy as removing the head and bolting it back on or is there a lot more to it?

If your just changing the head gasket, you will have to remove it, clean the mating surfaces, put the gasket down and torque it down correctly.If I did it anyone can. It is best to have help putting it back on ,unless you have a hoist.


Dave

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81 Dodge D150
It looked easier in the book .

Do a leak down test on the cooling system,that should tell you if the 'liquid' you're seeing is a major problem.Any chance the 'liquid' you see is oil? or coolant leaking from somewhere else and running along head/manifold to where you see it?

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83 B-150 slant 6,4 speed. 79 B-300 360 pathfinder 4x4. 74 W-300 318 4x4 git-r-done 80 B-100 sl6,4speed

You might have a manifold mounting bolt or bolt hole that is stripped or not seated all the way allowing coolant to seep out of the head.

I'll get out there tomorrow again and see what else I can do. I started it again and didn't see any bubbling this time but there is a weird looking leak deal on the exhaust manifold.





Those are two different, well I don't even know if you can call them leaks, on both sides of the manifold.

Wow. You have a real problem if that is where the leak is. Are you sure you don't have a massive carb leak and that is actually gas dribbling down the side of your manifold stack?