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PostPosted: Tue Nov 03, 2009 9:16 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber
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Location: Pomona C.A.
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restore, junk, buy new one,or what. on a tiny budget any suggestions

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 03, 2009 11:26 pm 
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Why not start with a description of what problems you think it's causing?

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 Post subject: mornings are horrible
PostPosted: Wed Nov 04, 2009 2:35 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber
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Location: Pomona C.A.
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mornings the dude don't want to wake up, after many attempts and almost a discharged battery it starts. it got better after the valve adjustment, i use to have to open the hood spray, and pray for it to start now i just need to crank about 2 3 times, and it starts after it has warm up of course. but mornings or any time where it sat for a while man the dude don't want to go.

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 04, 2009 2:49 pm 
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Supercharged
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Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
Choke adjustment. See HERE

You might also have a ruptured choke pulloff diaphragm. Do a search on the site to see how to check this.


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 Post subject: thanx,
PostPosted: Thu Nov 05, 2009 12:12 am 
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3 Deuce Weber
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thanx, ill check it out.

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 16, 2009 9:28 am 
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TBI Slant 6
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I have a similar problem. Since I don't drive the Dart daily, I think fuel is evaporating out of the carb. It takes a little cranking and pumping on the gas pedal to get it to light off. It used to be a lot worse. Not only hard to start but no immediate response to accelerator when prodded.

Replaced the original with an Auto Zone (Holley) rebuild. It worked much better, but fuel mileage took a nose dive. Found the rebuild had a 62 jet, not the 52 that should be there. It's a bummer to have to re-build a "professionally rebuilt" carburetor. So fed up with 1 bbl, I'm moving up plans to upgrade to 4 bbl.

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 16, 2009 11:32 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber
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let me know what you find and ill keep u posted as well. thanx 2darts

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 16, 2009 11:37 pm 
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Supercharged
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Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
Ask yourself- do you really need a four barrel? Slants are small displacement engines and most (read almost all but 1/4 race motors) will actually perform better with a one barrel or small two barrel carb. I highly recommend figuring out why your current motor setup isn't working right before you spend lots of money and effort installing things like a four barrel carb. Problems that appear to be caused by a carb can actually be caused by ignition issues, valve lash issues, compression issues, vacuum leak issues, etc... Also, you might be very surprised just how well a one barrel slant six can run.


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 17, 2009 10:00 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber
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Location: Pomona C.A.
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i want performance, yet it is also my daily driver which means fuel economy is important. i dream of the slant sickness article slant six it is beautiful. do i need a check list? maybe?

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 17, 2009 10:46 pm 
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Supercharged
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Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
Performance + economy = two barrel. You can do quite well with a BBD or a 350 CFM Holley two barrel carb. Four barrels are expensive and usually won't give you good performance on the street. I say usually because there are slant six tuning gurus who have the expertise and skill to run a four barrel carb on modified slants and still pull down low to mid 20s for gas mileage.


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 18, 2009 12:17 am 
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3 Deuce Weber
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so what about intake manifold which one u recommend?

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 18, 2009 1:15 am 
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Supercharged
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Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
Well, it's hard to go wrong with the factory "Super Six" setup: click here This setup has propelled many slant six racers successfully.


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 18, 2009 8:58 am 
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hello reed- good referral to doctor dougmos very good article on adjusting the carb. i have used it successfully on a variety of sl6s over the years. one needs to remember it may take 5 times under different starting conditions to get the carb perfectly adjusted. also keep in mind that there are 3 separate adjustment situations: quick cold start/fast idle , semi warm/driveoff/ slight idle kickdown and partial choke open and fully warmed up / curb idle choke off. the second situation seems to be the toughest to get right. back in ancient times(slantsix news days) dougmo would respond to questions on how to put amanual choke on a slantsix with intructions not to do it but rather get the carb adjusted properly. thats where this article helps. those aftermarket manual choke kits are a nightmare- very tough to get them to kick up the fast idle with the choke closed. i have 2 questions - never saw a factory manual choke on a sl6 car or truck- does such a maverick exist? also is the best way to adjust a mixture needle/jet for best economy/running to first get the warmed up car to curb idle(choke and fast idle off) and then slowly turn the mixture screw in until it begins to stall or stumble and then back out the screw1/4 turn? thanks bf


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 18, 2009 9:40 am 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:20 pm
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Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
Quote:
hello reed- good referral to doctor dougmos very good article on adjusting the carb. i have used it successfully on a variety of sl6s over the years. one needs to remember it may take 5 times under different starting conditions to get the carb perfectly adjusted. also keep in mind that there are 3 separate adjustment situations: quick cold start/fast idle , semi warm/driveoff/ slight idle kickdown and partial choke open and fully warmed up / curb idle choke off. the second situation seems to be the toughest to get right. back in ancient times(slantsix news days) dougmo would respond to questions on how to put amanual choke on a slantsix with intructions not to do it but rather get the carb adjusted properly. thats where this article helps. those aftermarket manual choke kits are a nightmare- very tough to get them to kick up the fast idle with the choke closed. i have 2 questions - never saw a factory manual choke on a sl6 car or truck- does such a maverick exist? also is the best way to adjust a mixture needle/jet for best economy/running to first get the warmed up car to curb idle(choke and fast idle off) and then slowly turn the mixture screw in until it begins to stall or stumble and then back out the screw1/4 turn? thanks bf
I don't know if Mopar ever offered a slant six with a manual choke, but SlantSixDan has posted links to modern aftermarket electric choke kits that reportedly work well in place of the stock choke pulloff.

The *best* way to adjust curb idle mixture would be to install a wide-band O2 sensor and get a air/fuel ratio gauge. Then you would know EXACTLY what the air fuel ratio was.

I have always let the engine get fully warmed up, set the curb idle speed and the timing, then turn the screws in 1/4 turn at a time until the motor starts to run rough, then back each screw out 1/2 a turn. Never done me wrong. You may need to adjust the idle speed and timing id your mixture adjustment was wildly off.


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 18, 2009 4:45 pm 
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The slant-6 was offered with manual choke in truck applications. It's not just a bracket attached to an ordinary automatic-choke carburetor. The choke lever is much longer than the automatic choke lever (to give good control over choke opening via a long throw from full closed to full open), underslung rather than overslung (so there's room for the lever to swing without hitting the air cleaner), and it's a coaxial spring-staged setup that lets the choke open partway just due to airflow past the plate even if the choke lever is in the full-choke position. Some manual-choke carbs also have a spring-loaded poppet valve on the choke plate itself to admit extra air even if the choke plate is fully closed. And the fast-idle cam is smoothly curved rather than stepped, so that it doesn't block the choke from closing when the driver grabs the choke knob and pulls. I'll try to get some pics the next time some of my manual-choke carbs floats to the top of the pile!

I agree the aftermarket kits are more "manual joke" than "manual choke".
Quote:
also is the best way to adjust a mixture needle/jet for best economy/running to first get the warmed up car to curb idle(choke and fast idle off) and then slowly turn the mixture screw in until it begins to stall or stumble and then back out the screw1/4 turn? thanks
Carburetor operation and repair manuals are posted here for free download, together with detailed info on how best to set the idle mixture.

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