Well The 4" Extension is finished as well as adding a baffle with trap doors to keep oil at the pickup on the hard launches.

The Trap Doors were made from simple 2" steel Hardware store hinges and A lot of layout and welding. Tomorrow's Tasks include putting a slosh Baffle in at the top of the pan and Making a Dipstick guide for the side of the pan.

Pics below of today's accomplishments.

Greg

Oil Pan comparison Shot - Stock A Body to Ruster's Oil Pan in progress

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I don't understand what the baffle/hinges are doing, and the pictures aren't helping. All I see is a deeper pan.....

Got a hand-drawn picture of what supposed to happen?

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

Those trap doors look goofy to me too. Seems you will eliminate volume except under braking. 4" drop is a LOT. 2" is the most I've done. Springs on the trap doors?

Nice work on that stuff!

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Well after studying other oil pan designs Moroso, Canton Etc. it seems the manufactuers use the oneway doors to keep oil near the pickup - On larger more elaborate pans they might have more than 2 doors.

So On a drag only car I feel that I just need one baffle / door set - It lets any of the oil into the area before (forward) of the baffle then Keeps the Pickup covered under acceleration rather then having all slosh to the rear of the pan.

We'll see how well it works - I can always take the baffle out if I dont like it.


Greg

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OK, sounds good.

Lou

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Only thing I would fear with a pan that deep is knocking it off on the return road, or under braking.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

Greg,

Might be a little deep. It would suck to take it apart once you got it into the car. Not sure if you recall my pan but I've banged it a few times. I believe it had 2.5" added to the center. I can put 7 quarts into the sump alone.

Additionally, I trimmed the trailing edge off and welded the edge of the k frame. It made taking the pan on/off a whole lot easier while the engine was in the car.

Tom

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11.02 @ 120.56
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EAxRmoDgsdY
Chassis dyno
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wd6hFGzLJMc

Thanks Tom and Dennis - I will look into these ideas when I get the Engine in the car - I am running large 15" front runners and I can always crank up the Torsion Bars too! Maybe I will put A skid plate on the K frame ahead of the pan? if needed.

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Very nice work but I would bee afraid of 4 in,when your front end comes off the ground I would be afraid of smashing the pan when it comes back down.I also worked on my 2inch dropped pan today.I am on my second one.First one came out horrible.Guzzi mark

Here is the most likley final version of the pan. (except for adding the Bottom) - I will do that when I get a pickup to modify for this pan.

I added a dipstick Guide on the side of the pan - This should help Keep the dipstick away from the crank and Windage / Crank Scraper area.

I also completed the Top baffles / Drain directors.


Pics Below.


Greg

Dipstick Guide


Dipstick Guide again


Fowllowing Shots are baffling - The Big hole is for the pickup to fit through.

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Well Here is some progress over the week.

I finally got the Block painted on the inside for smooth oil drainback.


Greg

I used Glyptal:
























Crank Weight Is 75 ~ 75.5 Pounds


Crank installed


Rod caps for #'s 1 and 2


Pistons 1 and 2 are in.

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Looking good Greg!

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11.02 @ 120.56
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EAxRmoDgsdY
Chassis dyno
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wd6hFGzLJMc

Schweet!

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

Well Here are the most recent updates. The pan is all done except for a darin plug, and sizing the dipstick up. Pickup tube is legthened about 2 5/8" I also Need to leak test the pan.

After getting some work done with a pickup tube and level installed I had to cut quite a bit off of one side of the pan to get it to have a flat and level bottom. This required removing, and cutting / reinstalling the baffle so it sat level with the pan floor. So really the pan has more capacity but is only about 2.5~ 3" Deeper than stock with all the baffling.

O yeah I forgot Pistons, Cam and Crank / mains installed now too.

Need to get some of My Jeffrey parts and make a 2 Piece timing cover a'la Tilley style.


Pics Below.

Enjoy,

Greg

Crank In


#'s 1 & 2 In and mains buttoned up


From the top


Bottom End Done


Oil pump in


Tilley's timing gear With adjustability


Fitting oil pickup














Pickut Tube Final length


Finished pan shots minus drain plug














Trap Doors 1


Trap Doors 2

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Looks like great progress. Sounds like you'll have it out at Hagerstown?? Hope we can have another neck'n'neck heads up race.

Lou

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