I have 225 slant 6 in my 65 dart 2 door post car automatic. When it sits over night it is really hard to start i have rebuilt carb put electronic ignition in it new cap wires rotor starter relay everything works according to book.if i just put small sprits of starter fluid it fires right up and chock and everything works the way it is supposed to after that i can use it all day with no problems starting..............( help please i have no clue)[/b]

When the car is cold, pull-off the air cleaner assembly, work the throttle and see if the choke flap is closing completly.

Also check to see if the accelerator pump in the carb is working. With the choke flap open, work the throttle while looking into the carb, you should see a small stream of fuel enter as you mave the throttle.

See this article for choke adjustment info:
http://www.slantsix.org/articles/choke- ... adjust.htm
DD

My slant does the exact same thing. i have to pump it way more than i should to get it started. after that it starts great runs great starts very easy. i put an electric choke on it and that got it running better. i also added electronic ign. and i have looked when it was cold to see if i got a good pump squirt and it does. it's also a BBD. it's been to cold to go out and work on it lately.

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65cuda 360, 71 Duster 416 11.84@110mph , 72 dart 440, 72 dart /6, , 71 Dart /6 2000 Kota, 73 Imperal,
Legendary Dealer

Considering the fact that starter fluid gives you an instant start another carb focus might be the wet level in the bowl prior to trying to start it cold.

Verify you are not loosing gas from the carb by doing a cold wet float level check.

My 65 FSM specifies a 27/32" dimension to the top of the gas level for a stock 1920 Holley.
Figure 16 on pg 14-20 shows hot to do this check after removing the economizer cover & diaphram.

If it's low or empty you might want to look for the leak point. This happened to me & made cold starts requiring several turns to fill the carb first.

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1965 Dart 110k, 225, Carter BBD Super Six, 2 1/4 single exh., sbp manual scarebird front disc, 7 1/4 rear 2.94 sure grip, 14 x 4.5 OEM wheels, 833 OD with hyd. throwout bearing, HEI, electric fan, ram air/heated air, Accusump. http://plymouthcarclub.com/

My Holly 1920 leaks all the fuel out of the bowl overnight/over two nights. Then the next time I try to start, it takes awhile for the fuel pump to send fuel to the bowl at a sufficient level to get into the airstream. Normal startup takes less than 2 seconds of cranking. After the gas has dripped out of the bowl, it takes about 10 seconds of cranking, perhaps two or more times.

Make sure you are not leaking fuel anywhere. I'll probably be looking for a new float bowl cover; mine is warped from overtightening the screws, and that is causing the leak.

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63 Dart GT Convertible

i think your on to something. i do notice that it leaks out in the front of the carb. i am sure the top is warped. i had a guy do a rebuild this summer but it still leaks from the top. i have tightened the screws a little at a time. trying to get it stopped and not warp it anymore than it already is. i wish i had another carb to try. i have an extra 1bbl. but i have the 2bbl. manifold. i have two other slants both have 1bbl. it makes good sense that it is losing gas overnight and doesn't start till it refills the bowl. it starts great after that.

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65cuda 360, 71 Duster 416 11.84@110mph , 72 dart 440, 72 dart /6, , 71 Dart /6 2000 Kota, 73 Imperal,
Legendary Dealer

So, my float bowl cover was leaking, and I did confirm that the cover was warped probably due to overtightening. I did ask around here and read that the best thing to do is to find a new un-warped cover and/or a new carb. Being the "I'll try it the quick, easy, and cheap way first" kinda guy I am, I decided to find a suitable gasket in a tube first to see if it would work. So I called Permatex, and they said that their MotoSeal 1 was resistant to gasoline, and marketed to the motorcycle world where the parts are routinely disassembled.

$8 later, I used a new gasket and liberally applied the gray-colored paste to both the bowl and cover, and tightened it down. It has the consistency of cool honey; it flows, but not that fast. The packaging says it seals within 20 minutes, but I let it sit for the day. The next day, I figured I'd take off the economizer and check out what it looked like inside.

Well, inside the bowl, the paste had flowed, and pooled at the bottom of the bowl. It was still wet, whereas the paste that was forced to the outside of the bowl had dried up. Outside, dry but pliable; inside, sticky. So I left the economizer off for the afternoon, and it appeared to dry up inside as well. I did confirm that the jet was clear, the float wasn't stuck, and the float spring was still clear.

I put it all back together, fired 'er up, drove around for 45 minutes, parked it, and it's holding fuel! No drips! Normally, the fuel would seep out overnight, but now no leaking as of two days. I probably put too much on, and that is why it flowed and pooled. Otherwise, I can endorse this product, until further notice.

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63 Dart GT Convertible

just get a cork gasket sheet from the local parts store and cut a gasket out of it. No more leaks.

I used a pretty thin sheet for mine (1/8" I believe), and it works great.

I thought that the paste would solve the leaking float bowl problem. No such luck. After not leaking for a few days, it started again. I just lived with it for a few years now. Decided to take Jester's advice to see if a new thicker cork gasket would work. Bought a sheet of cork gasket material, cut out a similar shape, and presto! No leaks! It has been a month now, and still no leaks. Works great. Why didn't I do this a long time ago??? This was actually simpler than placing the liquid paste stuff all around the seal interface. Oh well, live and learn, and share the lessons with all of you.

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63 Dart GT Convertible