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PostPosted: Wed Jun 18, 2003 1:26 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Sun Jun 15, 2003 4:45 pm
Posts: 41
Location: Santa Rosa, CA
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Hi All.

I have the Dist. Block from a mechanical disc brake '73 Valiant, as well as a '73 Duster which is a factory power disc car. I snagged the Valiant's Dist. Block from a junkyard before I had my '66 Dart Wagon in hopes of using it on my Duster when going from power to manual discs. I am putting that project on hold as a means of getting rid of the single m/c and 9" drums in the Dart ASAP.

The block looks pretty clean, and was from a complete, reasonably well cared-for looking car, so I figured it was the safest bet, but how can I test it to make sure it is clean and safe? I'd rather not have it muck up some new calipers and hoses. What type of shop can I take it to?

I'd like to be able to get away with NOT running the adjustable Prop. valve. Give me something I can adjust and I'll usually just screw it up.

I will be using the 8 1/4 that is currently in my Duster, along with its 11 inch rotors so I'll have the same bolt pattern front and rear, along with rear 10 inch drums, which I'll fit with 7/8 rear wheel cylinders, for proper bias and pedal feel with the manual discs. I think the 12 inch rotors would be overkill on a slant 6 car.

Master Cyl. will be one of the aluminum MP units with the adapter and pushrod, but which one of the two will work best for manual discs.

I'm assuming I'm on my own for the lines, which is fine with me, I have a cheap-o hand bender, and plan on investing in a double flaring tool, any good ones?

Is it true that the '76 A body calipers had a bigger piston than the 73-75 units?

I've done my research pretty thoroughly, but would appreciate tips and advice from people who've done DB swaps before. Let me know if I'm overlooking something, or unknowingly doing something the hard way.

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"When applied at precisely the right time, Ignorance is a powerful tool, usually even surpassing knowledge" E.J. "Michigan Madman" Potter.


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 18, 2003 3:50 pm 
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Joined: Wed Nov 06, 2002 1:57 pm
Posts: 2213
Location: Everett, WA
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I used the same year distribution block on my '65 Dart when I did the DB swap. I have no idea it if was from a manual or power brake setup. I don't think it really matters. I also have no idea how you would test one. They are made of brass, so corrosion isn't a concern. Just run some brake fluid thru it before hooking up the rubber lines.

The person that I bought my first disk brake setup from, said the '73 was the best for front/rear bias. He had tried many differant ones and the '73 worked the best. This is what he experienced with his Demon, and my brakes have never locked up on my Dart. So I guess he was right. The front hard lines were from a '71 Demon. The rear lines I made myself.

My master cylinder was from a '80 volare with manual brakes. These mount differantly then the power brake unit most people use. So I made my own adapter.

When I did my conversion, I had the advantage of a complete parts car, so my setup is basically the same as an OEM '75 Dart, with the exception of the volare master cylinder. My calipers also face forward, like God and Walter P. intended. I modified the k-member to make use of the '75 sway bar.

As far as I know, all of the fwd, single piston, sliding calibers, for 11" rotors, are the same from '73 on.

The brakes on my dart has a nice firm feel; stops in a nice, straight line; all without any lockups or major drama. There is a certain comfort, knowing, that the 9" brakes are history.


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 19, 2003 7:29 pm 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Mon May 26, 2003 8:11 pm
Posts: 109
Location: Albany, NY
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as best i could tell on my 73, when i was redoing the brake lines, i figured id take the p/valve apart. i found no valving other than the slide piston for the brake light switch. as i looked in my service manual, under the a-body stuff, it says brake tee with warning switch. under all other body styles it says proportioning valve with warning switch. soooo, being the less is more type of guy i am, i discarded the valve and ran my lines directly from the master cylinder and used the lineloc to split the front brakes left and right. its worked fine ever since and i felt no difference in braking with out it so id have to say that it is really just a glorified brake tubing tee.

--chad

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74 swinger slant 6, the slowest, most fun car i have ever owned.


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 20, 2003 1:10 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Sun Jun 15, 2003 4:45 pm
Posts: 41
Location: Santa Rosa, CA
Car Model:
Sweet, thanks guys!

_________________
"When applied at precisely the right time, Ignorance is a powerful tool, usually even surpassing knowledge" E.J. "Michigan Madman" Potter.


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