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PostPosted: Sat Apr 24, 2010 7:41 am 
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EFI Slant 6

Joined: Wed Apr 18, 2007 6:06 pm
Posts: 268
Location: Back in Tucson, AZ
Car Model:
I finally got my tax return back and its time to get this thing on the road. I have a budget of 2k to play with wich is not much for what I am attempting. Its a 64 Valiant 2 door when I purchased the car way back in 2002 the previous owners son worked at a local shop and had replaced the front bushings, ball joints, tie rods but left the old torsion bars, leafs, and shocks. I am looking for a mean car that car handle anything I can throw at it on the street. I have the steel laying around and will be boxing the K frame. stiffening the lower control arms and installing subframe connectors.

1'' torsion bars from Just Suspension.
Feel Firm road race rear leafs
Edlebrock IAS Shocks front and rear. Not sure if I should get the Classics or the Performers?

So keeping the budget in mind all this comes with a price tag of $750. leaving me only $1250 to have my engines machine work tuned and in the car. Its all going to be tight. Right now she is sporting a fresh set of break shoes in the old 9" drums. Not the best but don't have the funds to go disc's just yet. My thought is I need shocks and rear leafs now they are shot. When the car is up and running I can work on getting the rest of the parts for the breaking system over the next year.

Any one have experience with these parts any recomendations or suggestions?


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 24, 2010 7:58 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Tue Feb 22, 2005 5:35 pm
Posts: 1044
Location: Maine
Car Model:
I think you should re-prioritize your spending.

You said you're looking for a mean car that can handle anything you can throw at it on the street.

But with early sixties era brakes, you're gambling your car and your life that the street doesn't throw anything back.

Grab your pencil and find out what you can leave out until next year so that you can do the brake work this year. Then go out and tear up the streets with this cool '64.

My $0.02. :)

- Mac


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 24, 2010 9:30 am 
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Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
Posts: 24803
Location: North America
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Agreed. Move the brakes up (way up) the list. Leave the 1" torsion bars off for now.

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 24, 2010 9:50 am 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Fri Feb 21, 2003 1:07 pm
Posts: 840
Location: Bremerton, WA
Car Model:
You can only drive as fast as you can stop. It'd be a shame to have all your hard work and money on the rest of the car go to waste because you couldn't stop in time...

That aside, sounds like a fun build.

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 24, 2010 9:55 am 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Thu Jan 27, 2005 8:32 pm
Posts: 7834
Location: Portland-ish
Car Model: Fiat 500e
Brakes first, always. It's too bad all those 9" drum ball joints will have to go, but that's how the cookie crumbles. I've only run the small bolt pattern K-H brakes on a car that came with them. If I'm going to all the time, effort and expense to swap disc onto a drum car then the car will get large bolt pattern wheels and tires. Just putting on disc brakes, a big front sway bar, decent shocks and 15x7" wheels with good tires will radically transform the car.

1" torsion bars will probably require better than Edelbrock shocks for a good ride. Better save some more $$ and get Bilstein dampers. Also, $260 for rear springs is too much. I'll buy some stuff from Dick Ross, but not leaf springs. Go get ESPO 6-leaf springs and ask if they can de-arch them about 1 1/2". You could buy the adjustable spring hangers instead of de-arching, but that's more money.

So the priority, as others agree, is disc brakes first. Also, every steering and suspension part needs to be in good to very good condition. This includes rear springs that are of the proper rate and ride height and good dampers. Next a good wheel and tire package with a front sway bar.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 28, 2010 5:14 pm 
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EFI Slant 6

Joined: Wed Apr 18, 2007 6:06 pm
Posts: 268
Location: Back in Tucson, AZ
Car Model:
I agree the breaks need to be done soon but I cant squezz the budget to upread the breaks. I need to keep my small bolt pattern to use my rims and tires. The only way I see I can do this with out swaping upper arms is by using a $700 wilwood kit. I have aquired a set of leaf springs for free. They are stock springs out of a 71 duster that has a v8. I know they are still old springs but at least they still have a arch to them unlike my current ones. I am also thinking of just installing kyb's at half the cost of the edelbrocks. As for now the stock T bars will stay in.


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 28, 2010 5:37 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Thu Jan 27, 2005 8:32 pm
Posts: 7834
Location: Portland-ish
Car Model: Fiat 500e
Brakes first always.

Your neck is yours to risk, but please think of those around you when you have trouble stopping.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 29, 2010 6:10 am 
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Joined: Mon Oct 21, 2002 11:08 am
Posts: 17296
Location: Blacksburg, VA
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I would wait on tbars, and use the older leafs, but get the Edel shocks. IIRC, the only difference between "classic" and "perf" is the paint color!

I'm not convinced my Darts have been much quicker around a road course with higher rate tbars. Much more difference from brakes, weight reduction, and good low profile tires.

Lou

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 29, 2010 9:39 am 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:20 pm
Posts: 13276
Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
If you need to keep your SBP rims and tires, try and find a parts supplier for new brake rotor blanks- that is, a rotor that has no lug stud installed and is not drilled for any lug pattern. Then take the rotors to a machine shop and have them drill the rotors for the SBP and press in the right lug studs. Problem solved- late style disc brakes with SBP. Just make sure your rims will clear the calipers. $2k is enough to track down all the necessary hard parts and buy whatever new parts are needed for a disc brake swap.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 29, 2010 11:53 am 
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Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
Posts: 24803
Location: North America
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Quote:
If you need to keep your SBP rims and tires, try and find a parts supplier for new brake rotor blanks- that is, a rotor that has no lug stud installed and is not drilled for any lug pattern.
Interesting idea. Has anyone found such a source for those rotors?

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 29, 2010 6:32 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Mon Sep 26, 2005 5:09 pm
Posts: 2946
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
Car Model: 1962 Plymouth Valiant Signet
Seems to me that if that will work you should be able to drill the small pattern between the existing studs and accomplish the same thing. What am I missing?

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 30, 2010 3:16 pm 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Thu Jul 03, 2008 8:57 am
Posts: 150
Location: Edge of the World
Car Model:
Yeah. Brakes first. The KHs for SBP are fine.

Before you reinforce the LCA, decide whether you want to install a front sway/anti-roll bar. IMO, If the bar is in your future, start looking NOW for factory LCA that have the tabs for the bar. It is a much better design than the aftermarket tabs that mount on the lower shock mount bolt.

McVeigh Spring makes a good 5 leaf replacement for the A-body. I've used it with the stock TBs and am happy with the results. The McVeigh springs came with new shackle busings, too.

The 64 Valiant is a cool looker IMO. Good luck with your project.

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