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 Post subject: Idling a bit rough
PostPosted: Sun Mar 07, 2010 5:55 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Sat Nov 07, 2009 5:54 pm
Posts: 71
Location: Washington State
Car Model:
Okay so heres what I got: 68 valiant, 225/904, remand carter bbs, petronix convertion kit, new vac lines, and new air cleaner. New cap, rotor plugs and wires, solid state regulator and readjusted the rockers running at temp.
So I finally got to go for a nice sunday drive today since ive bought the car and it started out smooth but by the time I got home after working on my buddies 71 duster it was idling rough at each stop light. Off idle its fine and smooth but at idle its just horrable. Any ideas or areas to focus on?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 07, 2010 6:13 pm 
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Board Sponsor & Contributor

Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
Posts: 24522
Location: North America
Car Model:
"Reman" carb is always a suspect. Most of them are junk. Carburetor operation and repair manuals and links to training movies and carb repair/modification threads are posted here for free download. Tune-up parts and technique suggestions in this thread. Other potential causes of rough idle are a tappet that isn't tight enough to hold an adjustment, or vacuum leaks at the carb-to-intake or intake-to-head junction, or in vacuum-operated accessories connected to manifold vacuum -- such as the brake booster if the car has power brakes.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 07, 2010 7:40 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Mon Aug 24, 2009 5:19 pm
Posts: 310
Location: New Hampshire
Car Model:
I would check for vacuum leaks first around the carbs base.
I have always used the WD-40 spray method. Then I would try the idle mixer screw once it was warmed up.
Do not touch the ignition-it is fine, or at least good enough.
Is the warm idle speed ok? To slow will cause a rough idle, use a tach. Does your egr valve work?
Lynn


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 08, 2010 5:28 am 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Sat Nov 07, 2009 5:54 pm
Posts: 71
Location: Washington State
Car Model:
Ill double check it all on wenesday. I did have to use the old carb base with the new carb since they were different but I did check to see if it was level and used the new gaskets. The EGR valve is new but I may have installed the wrong one.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Mar 11, 2010 3:53 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Sat Nov 07, 2009 5:54 pm
Posts: 71
Location: Washington State
Car Model:
So I did my own rendition of the fuel line mod. Went to O' Reilly and picked up a stick of preflared 5/16" fuel line. Bent it 90 deg up behind the alt, ran it in front of the valve cover (in case I need to pull it later on). then 45 deg over to the carb. Making sure theres plenty of room to change the number 1 plug. I know Im running the frowned appone fram semi clear plastic filter but the car is relatively new to me and want to monitor the condition of the gas tank. I also pulled apart the "remand" carb and found a few shoddy items and swapped the float, jet, metering rod and needle and seat from the old carb (the needle and seat are 6 months old). Reinstalled it and after warming it up tried to set the air mixture screw by ear (tach still in storage). It seems to be idling smoother in gear. I know the plugs are also frowned appone champions. Ill have to take her for a drive on my next day off and see how it goes before I start swapping out anymore "new" parts.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Mar 11, 2010 5:10 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Mon Aug 24, 2009 5:19 pm
Posts: 310
Location: New Hampshire
Car Model:
Do you have a vacuum gauge? If so we need a reading...
Lynn

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50 chrysler,54 Plymouth, 64 Valiant conv 4 speed, 66 Valiant V8 wagon, 70 Challenger R/T 440+6 conv 4 speed,80 Colt, 98 Neon ACR,84 Honda V45 Magna
Taking care of 57 300C conv,48 T&C conv. Missing my 67 GTX and 36 Ply coupe


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Mar 11, 2010 6:36 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Sat Nov 07, 2009 5:54 pm
Posts: 71
Location: Washington State
Car Model:
In gear or in park? Hmm now it has a problem starting, I might review the parts I swapped.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Mar 11, 2010 7:50 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Sat Nov 07, 2009 5:54 pm
Posts: 71
Location: Washington State
Car Model:
Okay the two main jets have different numbers and the rod from the remand was steel while the one in the "stock" carb was brass which is why i swapped them, but the thing is the stocker had a gasket under it (from when I rebuilt it) but the remand didnt.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Mar 11, 2010 8:20 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Mon Aug 24, 2009 5:19 pm
Posts: 310
Location: New Hampshire
Car Model:
Quote:
In gear or in park? Hmm now it has a problem starting, I might review the parts I swapped.
How about both? I would think "park" should be higher than "drive".

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50 chrysler,54 Plymouth, 64 Valiant conv 4 speed, 66 Valiant V8 wagon, 70 Challenger R/T 440+6 conv 4 speed,80 Colt, 98 Neon ACR,84 Honda V45 Magna
Taking care of 57 300C conv,48 T&C conv. Missing my 67 GTX and 36 Ply coupe


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Mar 16, 2010 12:03 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Sat Nov 07, 2009 5:54 pm
Posts: 71
Location: Washington State
Car Model:
Havnt had a chance to get back to the carb... Been working on doing a complete brake job and OMG ive never broke a single hard line on any of my other 4 A bodies but this car broke each line to all four wheel cylinders, and the driver side going to the porportioning valve. :x


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Apr 20, 2010 1:27 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Sat Nov 07, 2009 5:54 pm
Posts: 71
Location: Washington State
Car Model:
I finally got to check the motor out friday. We sprayed started fluid around the intake and the idle picked up and smoothed out. Saturday I started working on it at 6 am and took my time changing the gaskets. It had all metal shim gaskets. I wire brushed all gasket surfaces then cleaned it with carb cleaned and wiped it down. Had to re pare a broken stud closest to the fire wall. Applied copper RTV to all gasket surfaces and let setup for about 20 min before torqueing it down to 120 in lb. Used a fel pro gasket set. Best I could find in a pinch. I allowed it to set over night before firing it up. Tuned that POS remanded carb the best I could with a tach. Right now it idles at 800 and 600 gear. It still shakes a bit in gear but that might be because of old motor mounts. I have new ones sitting in the box waiting for a good day to change them. Going to change the exhaust soon, probably going to go 2" with a glass pack.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Apr 20, 2010 3:25 pm 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Sat Jan 09, 2010 4:54 pm
Posts: 215
Location: Lincolnton, North Carolina
Car Model:
Quote:
frowned appone
frowned upon?

Sorry, I obsess over spelling :oops:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Apr 20, 2010 3:34 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Sat Nov 07, 2009 5:54 pm
Posts: 71
Location: Washington State
Car Model:
sorry i was typing that on my Blackberry.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri May 07, 2010 12:56 am 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Sat Nov 07, 2009 5:54 pm
Posts: 71
Location: Washington State
Car Model:
Finally got the old Valiant running top notch, tomarrow im having the exhaust redone full 2" with a 18" glass pack. I also got bored after work and installed my gear reduction mini starter with new 4 ga pos and neg cables.


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 Post subject: a great story
PostPosted: Fri May 07, 2010 5:49 am 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Thu Nov 05, 2009 6:18 pm
Posts: 187
Location: Midland TX
Car Model:
I just think happy endings are great. And they lived happily ever after ...............until he sores the only hyper pack in the kingdom
max :D

These blurbs are what are what I like about this site.

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1964 signet conv. 170 turbo
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