Since I am a newbie, I posted this in the wrong place under parts for sale. I am re-posting it here in the engine section since I don't see a specific fuel management section. Sorry for the mispost previously.

I am new to the forum, so I do not currently have photos of my two slant six jewels. To summarize, I have a 1979 D100 and a 1980 Plymouth Volare coupe. Both are powered by the best engine ever made, which we all know to be the mighty /6. Both are also torqueflight 3 speed automatics. The Volare does still have AC equipment present, but it was stripped off of the D100 by previous owners.

With all of that said, I am in the mood to get rid of the notorious POS Holley 1945 carburetors and 1V intakes that are presently choking back the potential of my two beauties. To this end, I intend to replace the intakes with the Aussie Speed 2V hurricane intake. Since my budget only presently allows me to purchase one intake and one carburetor, I will be starting with the Volare coupe (it's 8 years of flawless service are to be rewarded, and I just bought the D100). I would be extremely appreciative if members already running the Aussie Speed 2v Hurricane rig and a Holley 2300 would provide details for the following questions:

(1) Can you use the stock exhast manifold at all? (I have to do this until I can afford headers). If it can be used, what specific mods must be made?

(2) Will Clifford shorties, over-priced as they are, mate up with the AS hurricane without mods? I am told that the Aussie Speed shorties are currently unavailable through AS USA.

(3) And for the love of God, if you are a person who did this conversion with a torqueflight auto in place, please tell me how you delt with linkages and kickdowns.

I know steel fabricators and machinists, but I am trying to keep this as simple as possible. I will later be seeking to get rid of the torqueflight in favor of a T5 conversion, because, venerable as the torqueflights are, I just hate 3 speed automatics (well, I hate automatics in general, especially in a truck). I appreciate the info guys. I have seen a few threads on the AS 4V setup, but I don't know details about how the exhaust manifolding was set up. I don't want to start spending gobs of money if I really need to be thinking about saving for headers too.

I sent you a PM and will delete the post in the for sale section.
Thanks,
Frank

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Scrapple: Because a mind is a terrible thing to waste.
73 Duster - Race Car
66 Dart Wagon - DD
178" FED
82 D150
All Slant powered

Unless you are going for all-out performance, my recommendation is to use the "Super Six" 2-bbl manifold from late 70's and early 80's slants. This should be a whole lot cheaper than the OZ manifold, and it has the added benefit of maintaining the "hot box" that warms the intake with exhaust heat. You can get these manifolds from Ebay or car-part.com (search for one off of a 1980 Volare, and specify 2-bbl).

Instead of headers, use a set of Dutra Duals. This will provide the added performance of dual exhaust while again maintaining the "hot box".

By maintaining the "hot box" you will significantly help the driveability of your vehicle. Without the "hot box", your vehicle will likely be very "cold natured" and cranky until the engine has come completely up to temperature.

The solution for kickdown linkages is available from Bouchillon Performance. See here.

Hi Six of Spades,

I am currently collecting parts to do the same swap into my 87 D150 with a 904 Torqueflite, the Holley 6145 1bbl on there now is a piece of $#!+. I am also extremely interested to know if Clifford shorties are compatible with the Hurricane??? (Aussiepeeds headers have been coming soon for months, probably more expensive than Cliffords too)

I have my Hurricane 2bbl manifold, so I've done some trial fittings and whatnot. I don't see why you couldn't use a stock manifold (I'm considering it) but you would lose the use of the hotbox like gmiller said because the carb pad on the hurricane extends atleast 4 or 5 inches farther from the block than the stock manifold. You would have to weld or cap the heat riser somehow though. Aussiespeed sells a plenum box that routes the coolant below the carb pad to serve a similar function, although I don't know how it compares to the stock hotbox approach. Also look at this link for another intake heating kit:
http://autoparts.rasoenterprises.com/pr ... ucts_id=32
Anybody know more about this method??? I live in Alaska, so manifold heat is going to be very important to me in another couple months.

As for the linkage, I bought a Lokar kickdown cable from summitracing, but I spaced the bracket kit to go with it so it will require either paying out the nose for that or a little bit of creativity and fabrication. I haven't toyed with the specifics of hooking it up.

Sorry for not being too helpful, but I had to jump in, having alot of the same questions you do. Hopefully the good folks here on the slantsix forum will help us out.

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1987 Dodge D150 Shortbox /6 904 auto
1982 Dodge D150 Longbox /6 833OD 4spd

The plenum warmers (using coolant circulating through a plate) do work... but remember that they won't start working until the engine warms up.

What is your driving environment... where in the country do you live?

- Mac

Hey Six of Spades, welcome to the /6 Forum. There is limitless information & experience available here for your slant sixing pleasure…

Slanted Opinion: gmiller001: Perhaps the stock Super Six could be a reasonable trade-off for, bucks vs. performance, on the truck, and you can get a bit more exotic with the Volare, considering you all ready have a few of the major parts on hand.

A bit about me, I got acquainted with these folks here on /6 a few years ago when I must have had, a mid life brain fart, and purchased a 1967 Dart GT ragtop, same year, but not model, as my first car. After several months of wrenching I got it on the road, and spent another year sorting it out, no make that almost two years now. Anyway, these people here were very helpful, holding my hand through every step when asked…

I have a different mechanicly, but not conceptually, from your goal of more performance from a /6 in a cold climate that you are attempting to cobble up. My 67 Dart has a common set-up for a /6; it consists of Clifford intake manifold & shorty headers, Holley 390 cfm 4V, and an A904 Torqueflight.

In other words, after market manifolds, no carburetor heat, non standard accelerator & kick-down cable management, and the Cold State of Maine.

I can tell you from experience, that your car will become un-drivable in temperatures below 35 degrees, not -35, but a balmy 35 degrees in that it will form carburetor ice, won’t idle, have a bad flat spot while at speed, and gas mileage will drop into the single digits. This drivability problem will start to manifest depending on humidity in the mid forties.

What I did to solve these short comings, was to use an electric choke controlled by a thermister, bolted to the head, that retards choke pull-off in respect to engine temperature. Before I installed the thermistor, the choke would pull off prematurely leaving the Dart a cold blooded stumbling heap of iron until fully warmed up.

Carburetor ice was negated by building a hot spot under the carburetor on the bottom of the manifold, and running hot coolant through it from the heater loop.

Transmission & throttle cable connections were easily sorted by the use of Bouchillon Performance’s universal Chrysler kick-down cable, their Accelerator Cable Mounting Bracket # BPE 3395, and one longer stud, holding the carburetor and throttle bracket.

So to sum it up, if you want to drive in anything but black fly weather north of the 45th parallel, you will need carburetor heat, an electric choke when using an aftermarket intake, and various adapters to attach throttle cable & kick-down cable to the carburetor.

This winter, I had to move my cars from our old house, where they were stored for the winter, to ‘The New Digs’, 100 miles up the road. The Dart’s was a sunny, dry road, 15 degree, January day. This was the coldest weather I had driven her in, as the old cars get put away by the end of October, and not used until salt free & dry roads prevail in mid April. The car started right up after sitting several months, ran flawlessly for 100 miles and gave its usual fuel mileage for warm weather.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

Welcome!

To answer one question:

Yes, you can use the Hurricane with the Clifford shorties. I did a little grinding on the sides of the runners where they hit the head to clear the header flange, but I believe you will have to do that even for a stock exh manifold.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Wow. Thanks to all who have replied so far. This is indeed a wealth of information, just as I expected from this forum. I am currently on vacation at Hilton head, so I haven't been on much.

It does seem that I need to be thinking about maintaining the hot box conditions since I live in KY, we have four seasons, and our humidity is crazy. The Volare has always been a real cold natured gal in winter, even with the stock hot box though. I do have a stock super six rig sitting around on a donor slant six that came out of a wrecked Dodge Aspen. I think I'll just go for that on the Truck maybe. As for the Volare, I have been torn between an EFI conversion and the Aussie Speed intake and Hollie 2300 with headers approach. As far as drivability is concerned on the Volare, it will not touch the road ever in the winter time. It has been retired from daily driver duty, and I am just planning to pep it up and make it fun. It already gave me 8 years of road duty, and I am at the point now where I need to think restoration and mods before it begins to succumb to the devastating effects of the midwest rust belt climate. The D100 will be a daily driver.

Thanks guys. I will reply individually to all who have posted as soon as I can. I think I'll supersix the D100 for drivability and go a bit more radical on the Volare for summer fun. I'll keep up with the info on this post since another slant six brother is interested in the same mods. I wish they had done a factory EFI rig on these beauties rather than sacrificing them for front wheel drive 4 cylinder junk. We all know it was done because the slant lasted too long and retarded the volume of car sales.

Hi fellow slant fans, just an update on a few things that have been happening down under, The new slant six headers will be on there way to Frank for the final fit up. they will be available in both 1 5/8" & 1 1/2" . also we have a new model intake manifold near ready for release for guys wanting a intake simular in style & design as the hurricane but not as long in the runners. it will be available in 2B,4B & a blower version. it will be a bit easier on linkages,kickdown & wont hit on the brake booster or master cylinder.. will post pics when we get the proto types back..
regards Mark

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www.aussiespeed.com

Awesome!! Can't wait to see them!

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For performance, bolting a 400 CFM Weber DGES onto a Super Six manifold is stupid simple. Weber sells the adapters to bolt directly to the Super Six manifold. Bouchillon performance sells the kickdown cable and throttle bracket. All you need to do is fab a simple flat bracket to tie it all together.

The Weber DG series of carbs goes onto the Super Six like they were made for each other.

Hi and welcome, Six of Spades. Regarding cold climate operation: I have a '77 Aspen Wagon with a SuperSix setup as my daily driver all year round here in Norway, and never really had a problem with the cold, except for when I forgot to hook up the hose for the actuation of the hot air flap in the air filter box, that was really hell before I found my mistake! Heat is good! My old BBD is worn out, so I have bought a Motorcraft 2150 carb like the one they use for replacement on the Jeeps, and ordered it with a slow acting, old style hot air type choke, with an air pipe that runs down along the exhaust pipe, which gives the engine time to heat up fully before the choke disengage completely during the cold season. The choke also have an extra electrical element as an override that only works above a certain temperature (65F?). I am currently fabricating the heat shield and other things I need for the setup, I'll post pics later.
As for temps here: Midsummer and low 60's! We say that there are two winters here, one white and one green. The worst is the green, because then they turn off the heating!
Olaf

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Aspenized

Wow, a mid length 2 and 4bbl from Aussiespeed!? I wonder if it will hook up to the heat riser? I wish that was out now..

On that note, does anybody know how well if at all a hurricane with a holley 350 will mount without hitting the brake booster/master??? I want to do this on my 87' D150, but it seems to be mighty tight, especially to give the kickdown and aircleaner enough space.

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1987 Dodge D150 Shortbox /6 904 auto
1982 Dodge D150 Longbox /6 833OD 4spd

Cool. I think I am going to wait to see what the new manifold is before I go ahead and buy the original then. My Volare has AC and power brakes, so I am sure it is going to present many problems with the original long runner manifold.

On that note, does anybody know how well if at all a hurricane with a holley 350 will mount without hitting the brake booster/master??? I want to do this on my 87' D150, but it seems to be mighty tight, especially to give the kickdown and aircleaner enough space.[/quote]

This is good to know. If that rig won't wiggle in on a D150, it for sure won't wiggle in on a Volare Coupe. I'll wait for the new intake to come out and work on the D100 in the meantime. I'm gonna take some wise advice and go for the supersix setup with a Weber DGES on that. I hate Holley carburetors anyway. I'm considering and EFI project on the Volare. The AS intakes are attractive due to their close cfm matching on each runner. I figure a multiport EFI conversion with close cfm air intake should be the best possible combo for the slant, provided that one can sort out the finer details of tuning. I see that one tek exists on here involving the megasquirt and a stock 1V intake system. I have a donor Buick 3.8 tor grab parts from. it is originally TBI, but I figure one can probably manage to modify that TBI unit to be an air valve only. For instance, just remove the original injectors and use only the remainder. That avoids the need for rigging up a TPS. I would sacrifice one of my junky Holley 1945 carbs to this end, but it would require additional fabrication, and I am not sure that the junkness of the 1945 would not simply commute over to the EFI system. I'll keep everyone posted on my plans so they can be scrutinized before I make mistakes.