Just wondering if all stock 225's came with the same camshaft? If not what where the changes(what years & PN#'s differ)? oh and what are the stock specs?

Nope. They weren't.

The early camshaft had a 232 degree duration and .400" lift. The later, 71 to 77 had a 244 degree duration and .410" lift.

The 244 was often called the "Marine Cam," as that was where myth suggests it came from. (Might be!)

The Hyperpak cam had 276 degree duration, and .430" lift.

There was a 268 degree, .460" lift cam, and a 276 degree, .490 lift cam also from D.C.

The last three weren't installed at the factory AFAIK.

Not sure if the part numbers are going to help you much. Take a look for further information in the Articles section. (Hit the Home button and then look it up in the slant six racing manual.)

CJ

_________________
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Can they be interchangeable or would you have to change anything?

The 244 is a good upgrade for the older cam profile. Good all around cam. No changes needed other than new lifters, and making sure the rest of the valve train is in good health.

Look into an Erson RV10M, RV15M and some of the other options in the Erson Group Buy Thread. Josh may have some suggestions for re-ground cams. When you start spinning faster, or using a bunch more lift, you may need to examine the valve spring choice.

What are you trying to do with the car? It's pretty important prior to setting your sights on a bunch of lift and duration numbers. An Erson 280/270 RDP is a great cam, but isn't the best choice for running to the market or taking the twins to soccer practice.

CJ

_________________
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Actually I have one 1963 engine and a 1976, some of the stuff in the 76' is a little messed up so i was going to use parts from the 63'. I was just trying to find info from people who know whats what. As for the rebuild just doin' my first one(so super basic), so I'm trying to make sure i know whats going on. thanks for the help!

Just a question, even with the larger cam, would there be valve clearance issues. And what is AFAIK

Not with our engines, you'll cut out about .2" out of the head and deck and still have lots of room before you hit a piston at TDC...

When you decide to up the SCR to about 12:1+ then you might need to check depending on your cam choice...

For a daily driver mill you're still in the clear.

-D.Idiot

Alright then, sounds like there are some good options then, thanks

Just a FYI: This info is correct for the 225, but not the 170 engine. On the 170, with any head mill over about .050, and any aftermarket cam, you should check piston to valve clearance.

_________________
Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

AFAIK = As Far As I Know

CJ

_________________
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

The shop manual for 1979 says 244° duration, but .406" intake lift, and .414" lift on the exhaust.
For those interested, the other data are as follows:
Intake open 16° BTC
Intake closes 48° ATC
Exhaust opens 54° BBC
Exhaust closes 10° ATC
Valve overlap 26°
Lash is set at .010" intake and .020" exhaust

And tip of the day for those who tear off their hair (I'm close to bald!) every time they need to use some degrees and try finding that f.....g little °, try: Alt Gr + shift + 0
(that is the Alt on the right side on the keyboard - the key nearest to the big space-bar, plus shift and zero simultaniously)

Olaf

_________________
Aspenized