first off, hey my name is chuck and i have always had older cars, but i am new to the mopar scene. i have a pretty nice 63 valiant that is mostly original except for the stereo i put in it. it has a super 225 slant 6. lots of people tell me these things a tough ass little motors. i have a exhaust leak at the flange that i have to fix, both flanges or warped a little and have to flatten them back out, fairly easy fix. the motor does have some very little noise on the top end. several people told me that it is the rocker arm rod??? and most of the old slants have that noise. is this true. it has the 3 speed in the dash tranny, are these things supposed to go through gas like its goin out of style? it has a one barrel carter carb. on it. it seems like the idle may be up a little too high and maybe running to rich. it hiccups occasionally and i know in the past if they run too rich it may do that. i have not put a timing light on it as of yet and may need to adjust the points. speaking of points what do yall think of the petronics system in these things, do they work?but most of these thing are miniscule to the big picture. this is my daily driver and occasionally i have to drive about 40 miles to work and i hate to drive 50mph because if i go faster then that it burns up all kinds of fuel.

any help would be awesome.
thanks in advance

chuck aka stinkbug :shrug:

They are right. The slant six is one of the most durable yet simplest and easy to maintain motors ever built.

This is a common problem. You are right, it is an easy fix.
Partially. Until 1980-1981, all slant sixes had solid lifter camshafts and adjustable rocker arms. Setting the valve lash is a mandatory maintenance procedure on on these motors. Over time the rocker arms et out of adjustment and get noisy. Setting the valve lash is a simple procedure that will quiet the motor down and improve fuel economy and power.
No. It used to be said that the slant six can't pass anything but a gas station. It sounds like your car needs a serious tune-up and some attention paid to the carburetor.
You need to get the factory service manual for your car and do a good tune up, followed by a carburetor rebuild.

Like I said, you need to get the factory service manual and do a thorough tuneup. You need to get the basic tools necessary to work on your car, including a timing light.
Yes. There are better options out there, such as switching to an HEI system, but Pertronix work fine for a daily driver.
Again, it sounds like the car has not ben properly serviced in a long time. I would do a complete tune-up to include:

(1) cap
(2) rotor
(3) plugs
(4) oil and oil filter
(5) check timing
(6) air filter
(7) adjust the valves
(8) rebuild the carburetor, or at least make sure it is adjusted properly
(9) new points and condensor, or swap to Pertronix

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Start with a valve adjust,your rocker shaft is fine.Do a full tune up and your mileage will go up Chuck.
.I personally like the Petronix.

The mixture should be leaner once you take care of the vacuum leaks. Some really good manifold gaskets are available from Remflex or from the Australians. http://www.pentastarparts.com.au/sunsho ... ail&p=3094

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/6 '67 Barracuda convertible, electronic ignition, 4-OD, street cam, SBP KH discs, 3.55 SG 7.25" 1" t-bars. Bilstein.
340 '67 fastback, Doug Nash 5-speed.
1988 Toyota pickup work truck

Sometimes not......you may have to resurface the manifolds. If you just want to clean the surfaces up, use something like Docs head surfacing sanding board (3/4" 16 ply birch with a red 80 grit sanding belt attached to it) you can do a pretty good job. The head pipe flange gasket can sometime be a bugger. I have blown out quite a few of the FelPro type gaskets and have found that the RemFlex PN RF6006 2.25" donut gasket to be the best. I have reused it several times and it reseals great! It is very thick and will seal any imperfections. You get two in a package for $14. One of the most common upgrades is going to the 2.25" flange and head pipe to the muffler.

If you want to seal the head to manifold, www.Remflex.com gaskets PN RF6008 which is 3/16 thick and includes stove box gasket. Another good option is a Corteco #23020 for the intake manifold for $13.00. It is similar to the Remflex but a little thinner. Both gaskets are thicker than a FelPro and will reseal very well. I like installing the exhaust manifold first, then the intake.

Hope that helps! Having a good seal on the manifolds will improve your tuning efforts.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

it aint leakin from the head. i can feel it comin from the manifold to tailpipe flange. i replaced the flat gasket. is there supposed to be a ring type donut gasket ih there also??

Not on a stock slant exhaust. Just the flat flange gasket.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

The felpro gasket for the flange only has gasket material.The walker gasket has a metal flange on the inside of the gasket material.Go with the walker gasket.