Man, has it been ages since I worked on these old engines so I need help.

Just got my son a 1984 Dodge Ram Prospector with a 225 slant 6. We bought it from grandpa who always had it serviced but the shop I believe was not the best.

This thing can barely pull itself up a steep hill, you have to floor it, and is slow out of the gate.

It runs a bit rough also but not too bad in that respect.

Have not done much yet but clean the rotor and cap (yes, I'll buy new soon) and try to check the timing. Plugs look as if they are burning good.

What I find odd about the timing is that I found the distributor all the way clockwise which reads about 14 degrees BTDC with a timing light. The data plate on the fenderwell says 16 BTDC with ESA disconnected so I'd say that is in the ballpark but odd that it is fully CW to get to that point.

Now for the stupid questions: Looking at the harmonic balancer there are three timing marks equally spaced around it. WHY?

The timing plate itself has a cylindrical tube which I assumed would be TDC but the data plate itself shows 0 degrees outside of this tube and goes all the way to 20 degrees BTDC.

Not sure why it is such a pooch? I haven't done a compression check or anything yet.

Where do I start to breathe some life back into her?

Are you emissions exempt? If so look at ditching the lean burn system. Go with an HEI upgrade.
Look at the FAQs at the top of each section and READ alot.
Welcome to the forum.
Frank

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Scrapple: Because a mind is a terrible thing to waste.
73 Duster - Race Car
66 Dart Wagon - DD
178" FED
82 D150
All Slant powered

Checked compression last night and all cylinders are good. 110-125 was the range high and low.

Did find a leaking fuel filter once I pulled it in the garage and could smell it. Was a pretty steady drip coming from the seam in the can, not sure that would be my problem.

Both pickup coils, start and run, ohmed out ok at about 290 ohms.

Picked up a new rotor, cap, plugs, wires and fuel filter today, was cheap enough to just replace in case.

Am wondering about a comment I found somewhere about disconnecting the coolant temp sensor when setting timing. I did not do that, I just disconnected the ESA so possibly my timing is retarded more than it should be?

Also found a brittle and cracked hose that runs from the carb to the vapor canister, not sure if that line really has much vacuum so not sure if that is an issue.

Replacing all of these parts tonight and having another go at the timing and see what happens. Also moved the distributor a tooth or two so I have some leeway to advance and retard instead of it being maxed out clockwise as it was found.

Only other thing I can think of is to unbolt the exhaust and run it to see if I have a restriction there causing my power loss.

If none of that works I'll have to assume my slant 6 is just a POOCH!

Any other advice folks????? I am open to suggestions.

Oh yeah....... 154,000 miles on engine with a rebuild done at 65,000 according to grandpa. He stated that he doesn't remember it being a pooch, we have had it setting in our driveway untouched for about a year.

IF your local emissions lkaws allow,

(1) as suggested, remove the Lean-Burn ignition and carburetion systems and replace them with a standard electronic ignition system and carburetor. HEI is an excellent upgrade.

(2) route the vacuum advance line from the new distributor directly to the vacuum advance port on the carb
(3) disconnect and plug the hose going to the EGR valve, or remove all the EGR valve hoses and equipment
(4) remove the catalytic converter(s)
(5) upgrade to 2 1/4 inch exhaust and a free flowing muffler. Get a stock muffler for a truck with a 360.
(6) readjust your timing so it is set to 16 BTDC. There is a second bolt on the bottom of the distributor that can be loosened to permit additional distributor movement
(7) check if the outer ring of the vibration dampener has slipped, changing the location of your timing mark. My brother's van had a timing mark that had slipped show it showed the timing at 8 degrees advance from where it really was. This meant that I was setting the timing 8 degrees retarded from where I thought I was.

That should at least get your truck able to go up hills. The lean-burn system is notorious for not operating properly, even when brand new. Retrofitting a standard ignition and carburetor will probably make the biggest difference.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

So...... then I would need a new single pickup distributor with vacuum advance, a new intake manifold, a new carb and an HEI module? Plus a bigger exhaust?

I'm just trying to get my son's old truck on the road with a reasonable amount of power, not looking to spend that amount of money (I don't even have a clue how much $$$$ those mods are but too much).

We are emissions exempt but that still doesn't mean I can legally cut out the cat right?

Also I manually turned the engine to TDC on #1 last night and the timing mark was right where it was supposed to be.

Yes
No
Possibly
Possibly.
Only if you want to.
If you are emissions exempt, you probably can get away with removing the catalytic converter. There is some debate about whether or not Federal law prohibits private individuals from removing emissions devices on vehicles older than 5 years old. See THIS.

Lean burn systems came in three flavors (1) computer controlled distributor only; (2) computer controlled carb only; (3) computer controlled distributor and carb.

You mentioned that your distributor has two pickups. This means that you at least have a computer controlled ignition system. This means tat you will need at least a single pickup distributor with vacuum advance. You most likely will want to purchase a distributor spring recurve kit to tailor the advance curve of your distributor to your truck, but that can wait until you get the truck up and going.

HEI is a simpler swap, a simpler systen, and a superior system to the old factory mopar electronic ignition. However, you can swap to the Mopar electronic ignition if you are a purist. I will say that when converting a lean-burn equipped vehicle to a non-lean burn ignition system, HEI is a simpler swap than Mopar ignition. For instructions on swapping in HEI, see HERE. Those instructions are written for someone swapping a point ignition equipped or standard Mopar electronic ignition equipped vehicle to lean burn. Since you have lean burn, all you have to do is find the (+) for the lean burn computer and use that as the (+) for the relay. Now ground your unit, attach the wires to the coil and distributor, and you are done.

You may or may not have a computer controlled carb on the truck. The easiest way to tell is to check if there are wires going into the float bowl. If you have wires going into the float bowl, then the carb is computer controlled and you will need a standard non-computerized carb. If you don't have wires going into the float bowl (don't confuse them with wires going to a "dashpot" or "idle stop solenoid" on the side of the carb under the idle speed screw), then you can keep your current carb.

If you decide to stay with a one barrel carburetor (I don't see why you shouldn't) you can keep your stock intake manifold. Chances are you have the desirable single piece aluminum intake. You can just change carbs and be done. I recommend a Holley 1920 model carb, preferably the economaster version.

Oversize exhaust helps in the power and economy department, but it is not necessary.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Thanks for your detailed reply Reed!

Now if I can sort out what it all means I'll possibly give it a go if the costs are reasonable.

A lot of folks say it was an easy conversion but I am still a bit lost over what I keep and what I get rid of as far as the old wiring etc......and I don't want to be a PITA on here having to be handheld all the way through it. LOL!

OK. FInd your Lean burn computer. On trucks they were mounted on the air cleaner and later under the battery tray. Unplug the connectors going to the computer. You can leave it at that, or you can unwrap the harness going to the computer and trace each wire back and remove it.

The only wire I recommend you keep is the fat black wire that provides the switch (+) feed to the computer. You can find it with a test light or a volt meter. The other wires will go to various sensors on the motor, the distributor, the alternator, possibly the carburetor, and maybe inside the cab. your best bet is to get a wiring diagram for your truck with the lean-burn system tat matches what you have and trace the wiring on the diagram first. You do not want to accidentally remove part of the charging or starting systems.

I have an 84 Factory Service manual for Dodge vans and would be happy to scan the appropriate diagrams for you. However, I need to know if your truck has an oxygen sensor in the exhaust manifold.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

I'll look at the truck after work to check for the O2 Sensor.

The lean burn computer is in fact in the air cleaner.

Thanks for your help.

Where can I find a factory service manual?

Do you know if I am supposed to disconnect the coolant temp sensor to set timing? I have conflicting info on that issue.

Check eBay for a service manual, or your local public library.

One other thing you might want to check before you go nuts replacing things if is the vacuum line to the vacuum pod on the computer is hooked up and not cracked, and that the vacuum pod on the computer holds a vacuum. If this vacuum pod doesn't get a vacuum signal either through a bad hose or a bad diaphragm, the computer defaults to a limp-mode and the engine runs poorly.

Timing should be checked with the hose to the vacuum pod on the computer disconnected and plugged (at the computer end). Timing should be checked with transmission in neutral. If your carburetor has a idle stop solenoid or switch, connect a jumper between the switch and a ground. I find no reference to disconnecting the coolant temp sensor. However, the timing is supposed to be set with the engine at operating temperature.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Finished install of all parts, Reset timing and seems to have usable power at least. Will not win any races though. Haven't tried dropping exhaust yet, may see if that gives a bit more.
Purred like a kitten when cold but did get a small amount of shake when fully warmed up. Still better than what I started with.

Reed, no O2 sensor on exhaust.

May just run it for a while as is, concentrate on a few dash lights that are still inop and the MANDATORY teenager replacement of the factory AM Radio.

This suggests a vacuum leak, a lean mixture, a worn carb, or a dead lean-burn computer. No O2 sensor most likely means no feedback carb, which is a good thing, since that means you can adjust it yourself.
OK, but I'll bet you a penny that your lean-burn system is dead and you would pick up both economy and performance if you went to a standard electronic ignition and dumped the cat(s). But, you'll get there eventually. Good luck!

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

You are correct, no comp controlled carb. Sprayed flammable contact cleaner at base of carb, no change in rpm, if a vacuum leak exists I am not finding it. Timing advances when vacuum line is hooked up to lean burn computer.

May run it as is for a while, do teenager sound upgrades, then hop it up later.

You are correct, no comp controlled carb. Sprayed flammable contact cleaner at base of carb, no change in rpm, if a vacuum leak exists I am not finding it. Timing advances when vacuum line is hooked up to lean burn computer.

May run it as is for a while, do teenager sound upgrades, then hop it up later.

I wouldn't consider removing the lean-burn a hop-up. The lean burn is an unreliable system and could very well leave your son stranded. I consider removing lean burn a regular maintenance item and safety upgrade. That, disconnecting the EGR, and removing the catalytic converter(s) will probably wake the slant up enough to make your son happy.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.