I just bought a red wheel at a local Mopar junkyard. My interior is blue - so I'm going to paint this one. Is the red on there now paint or some kind of plastic or acrylic coating?


I figure that if I hit it with a maroon scotchbrite pad, a little body filler in the cracks and some bulldog I should be able to get new paint to stick.


Joe

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Be sure to use a urethane based paint and finish with a compatable clear coat or you'll be sorry later. Other finishes can produce outgassing. ( a chemical reaction between paint and a pororus surface).Urethane also has the advantage of duribility when done right. Would use epoxy to fill any cracks as can't see body filler holding up in this enviorment...Remember PREP, PREP, PREP, PREP makes all the differance, that and some stock in scotch brite. Good luck..Dave

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Thanks Dave - I started sanding today, It's going to take alot to get it smooth.

JOE

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Been there, done that.......Dave

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Troops on the battlefield have a far better view of the battle then the generals who lead them

I used a vinyl dye to paint my steering wheel.

I used a combo of bumper epoxy and a sport epoxy (Stuff used to patch water skis.)

The water ski stuff ended up being quite a pit more solid. But it took quite a few layers for it to build up.

I think the next time I restore a steering wheel, I'm going to use the kit from POR-15. I've used their other products and have been very pleased.

John

Por-15 want's $70 for the repair kit..

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That's more than I thought it was.

When I did my steering wheel, I ended up spending a bundle once I added all the little things together.

I don't know if I would pay that. I think Eastwood has a kit out there as well. I wonder how much that one is.

I probably have about $50 in the restoration of my current steering wheel (including paint). I think the bumper epoxy kit was $20. Then I know I used 3 tubes of the sport stuff at $5 a tube. Then paint and hardener…..

It is holding together fairly well. I get cracks where the arms join the center section. (This is after about 3 years of use). I really wish I had used the proper stuff and done the job right the first time instead of experimenting and trying to save a buck. (I’m a really cheap guy. Just because I wish I had done it another way doesn’t mean I still would end up doing it that way).

I do think $70 is too much. Maybe if you shop around from vendor to vendor, the price will be cheaper. A lot of times the manufacturer lists the price higher than it sells for on the street.


John

One of the mopar mags did a story on repairing your (well not YOUR, but you know what I mean) steering wheel. I'll try to dig it out this weekend. One thing I do remember specifically though is keep it clean. Use marine clean or something?

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Grip it and rip it

I have a buddy that owns a company called Body Shop Supplies. (in fact, I'm setting up his DSL today) I'll find out how much he sells that kit for.

Joe

_________________
My 63 Valiant
http://www.readersrides.com/rides/class ... aliant.htm
<img src="http://www.readersrides.com/slant6-02.gif"/>