crap, so now I remember why it's been put on the back burner... I need an accelerator cable, electric choke and lost the spring for my supersix kickdown... plus the transmission connection.

and there are broken bolts in my supersix exhaust manifold. Is it easy to drill those out?

Not real easy, but if you have enough sharp long shank drills you can get them drilled out. I believe I had the best success with a hardened 135 degree machinist milling drill. Get a couple and lube it up with cutting fluid and go slow. I have drilled out 3 manifolds now. Just replace with under size full length stainless bolts, washers and nuts.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Well, it took about 4 hours, but I managed to drill out the two exhaust manifold to exhaust pipe bolts and also drilled out two of the long bolts attaching the exhaust mani to intake mani... But I need to re-do those bolts with a bigger drill bit.

Gotta go to the hardware store for new bits and some bolts. any idea what I can do about the accelerator cable?

Is liquid wrench a decent enough penetrant to help ease the removal of all my 1 bbl setup's nuts and bolts? Just keep applying it every night for a few days and let it soak in?

Possibly. I like "Knock 'Er Loose" or PB Blaster. Once overnight soak should be plenty.

For the rest, I recommend you order the aftermarket electric choke conversion (see HERE), use a Lokar or cable style kickdown linkage, and grab a throttle cable and pedal out of a K-car or minivan.

From several other posts on this site (found using the search button):

The triangle washers are still available from Dodge/Chrysler dealership, part # 3751 636. Be prepared - they are somewhere around $2.70 each.

Brass nuts - Dorman Part # 680-001 or 849-001 (same nut, sold to stores in different packages)

New studs (Grade-eight) - Dorman Part # 675-093

New castellated nuts for the end studs Part #AN310-5 (5/16-24) at this website.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Thanks, Reed! I'm all over the electric choke.

Quick question... Is it possible to replace the intake without removing the exhaust manifold? I see that the electric choke works with the 1bbl exh manifold, and there is no big difference between 1 bbl and 2bbl exh mani's.

wishful thinking?

Thank Slantsixdan. he found the product and brought it to our attention, I am just parroting what he posted.
Well, not really. You have to undo all the same bolts to take either the intake or exhaust manifold off. The manifolds are usually removed and installed as a unit. There are three different studs or bolts that connect the intake to the exhaust manifold, but those are independent form the manifold to head bolts. I suppose you could remove all the triangle washers and the three round washers, leave the exhaust pipe bolted up to the exhaust manifold, and then remove only the intake by removing the three intake to exhaust bolts/nuts. That way the exhaust could remain hanging from the outermost two studs on the head and still be attached to the exhaust pipe. So I guess it is possible, but there isn't really an advantage to it since you will want to replace the intake manifold gasket and you need to remove the exhaust manifold to do that.
Depends. There have been several different iterations of the slant six exhaust manifold. They are all physically interchangeable. However, when it comes to chokes, there are two main styles. The "open" choke pocket and the "closed" choke pocket. The closed choke pocket was used on early one barrel carb applications. The open choke pocket appeared in the early 70s on one barrel applications and was the only style used on the factory two barrel applications. The aftermarket electric choke conversion kit I linked to will work with either the open or closed choke pocket. If you use the aftermarket electric choke then you can use any exhaust manifold.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

hmm... I have a supersix kickdown linkage and all the brackets to attach to the manifolds etc. The spring where the rod connects to the transmission is on the shop floor somewhere, but I'll find it. I read the supersix article over and over, but can't tell if there's a bracket I needed to remove from the donor cars tranny.

Mine is a '72 Dart. How do you put a "camel hump" in the 1bbl throttle cable?

If you can get it, and if you know the donor car to be an original factory installation Super Six vehicle, the kickdown lever on the donor car's transmission is worth getting. It is the arm with the box and nut that the kickdown rod slides into. To get it, you must remove the gear selector arm first.
Put a "u" shape in the cable.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

I don't have access to the donor car any longer. Can this be cobbled together some other way?

lol, oh a way of shortening the throttle cable. Hmmm... basically just use a zip tie or something to hold it to the correct length.

Reed, you answer questions so fast it's unreal Thanks!

I am assuming that you are talking about the mounting bracket? It goes in the same location and the bolts go through it. Click on the red link below my name to view photos of how it's mounted and the stainless steel bolts.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

This isn't critical. Just make sure that the kickdown is adjusted properly after the swap.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Has anyone used the Holley 64-1590? Summit Racing says this is a stock replacement for a 1980 2-bbl slant-6 carb. Is this the same as a 2280?

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1980 Volare, Super Six Intake

It's just a number for a Carter BBD remanufactured by Holley.

http://www.dragtimes.com/parts/Holley-6 ... 89425.html