I have a '68 Dart 270 3.7l, 225. I have a holley 1945 carb (never used ..so it's new) installed and an automatic electric choke thermostat from a company called CarbsOnly. During the summer the carburetor together with the electric choke worked great, but I knew when cold weather came I may need to make adjustments.

..And so here's my problem. First off, I'm not very keen on engines (yet) and especially carburetors. When I try to start the car on a cold morning I tap down on the accelerator, which causes the choke flap/door to snap fully shut. Then I turn the ignition (electronic) to crank, and it turns over and very quickly cranks right up. It holds for about a couple of seconds then very very suddenly it stalls and goes dead. At this point trying to crank it again becomes very difficult, and the only way that it will finally start back up is if I lay on the gas and then (once cranked) keep on it for a good bit after ..if you don't it will stall out. After some time it will manage to idle w/out my help.

I had someone watch the carb this morning when I cranked and they told me that the choke plate/flap did close fully when I tapped the gas but that when I turned the ignition and cranked it, that the choke flap immediately opened all the way up ..fully. Of course the car followed that by stalling out dead, as usual. From what I've read the choke should snap shut then, once cranked, it should open up but only just a little bit at first, and then slowly as the car warms open more until eventually it's opened all the way.

What should I be checking that might be the reason the choke is opening all the way so fast. Could the electric choke be the reason, or the choke vacuum diaphram thing? Again, it almost always cranks great the first time but dies out right after, and I believe it's because the choke is wide open too much to soon ..like instantaneously.

Help!

Sounds like the "choke vacuum diaphragm thing" needs to be adjusted. You need to get a factory service manual for your car to get the exact setting it should be adjusted to, but a very rough ballpark setting is that the choke should open about 1/8 inch as soon as the motor starts. This is adjusted by bending the little wire linkage piece between the diaphragm piston and the eyelet on the side of the choke butterfly.

As an immediate alternative to getting the factory service manual, everything you need to know about adjusting your carb's choke can be foubnd in THIS ARTICLE. However, if you are at all serious about working on your car, you should get the factory service manual.

Since you carb is new, you should check all the settings- choke pulloff, fast idle linkage, fast idle speed, curb idle speed, idle mixture, accelerator pump.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

It is the choke diaphragm thingy-its called the choke pull off. Look at the linkage that goes from the choke pull off to the choke flap valve (big one on top of carb). The link should have a"U" shape kink in it. use pliers or a screw driver blade and spread it apart/open it up some. IT should open the choke valve about 1/4 inch or less with the engine running-not all the way open until the engine is warmed up.

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50 chrysler,54 Plymouth, 64 Valiant conv 4 speed, 66 Valiant V8 wagon, 70 Challenger R/T 440+6 conv 4 speed,80 Colt, 98 Neon ACR,84 Honda V45 Magna
Taking care of 57 300C conv,48 T&C conv. Missing my 67 GTX and 36 Ply coupe

Thanks for the replies.

I read the article link and some material about the 1945 carb and it seems as though bending the "U" in the choke pull off linkage is the answer. So I tried to spread the "U" shape a bit wider but it really did not want to open up, and I felt like I was going to damage something if I applied more force to get it to spread more. I did get it a tiny bit wider but when I started the car it still cranked up then died, and the choke opened up fully upon cranking. Is there a better way to spread apart the U shape? I turned a screwdriver to spread it but it wasn't working very well.

Is anyone familiar with the electric chokes from Carbs Only? I feel like it may not be set right. I got one because I read on these forums that they're the way to go. The choke has marks on it for setting LEAN one direction or RICH another. I found that if I tried to set the choke on one of those marks that there wasn't enough tension to close the choke plate/flap. When I had it set to one or any of the markings this is what happend. When I'd press the gas to close the choke plate (to crank the car) the choke plate wouldn't move beacuse there wasn't any tension to snap it shut when I had it set to the markings. So I've had it turned so as to have enough tension for the choke plate to be able close fully (if it needs to close). But this means that I'm not lined up on any of the marks on the choke housing, in fact I've got it set opposite of the marks.

The instructions from the manufacturer say to adhere to the markings when making adjustments on the choke. I don't see how I can do that and still have the choke plate be able to close? If anyone is familiar w/ the E choke from Carbs Only please let me know if I need to keep it on the marks or not ..for it to work right. I can take a picture of my settings if anyone would like to see what I'm describing, or would like to see anything else in regards to this issue.

How tight is the choke flap valve when its closed? You can check it by your self. Engine cold-take off air cleaner/filter housing. Use your hand to open throttle. Hold throttle open and use your fingers to poke at the flap valve-does it snap closed? Does it almost close?

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50 chrysler,54 Plymouth, 64 Valiant conv 4 speed, 66 Valiant V8 wagon, 70 Challenger R/T 440+6 conv 4 speed,80 Colt, 98 Neon ACR,84 Honda V45 Magna
Taking care of 57 300C conv,48 T&C conv. Missing my 67 GTX and 36 Ply coupe

two needle nose plyers are good for making rod bending type ajustments.

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1972 Plymouth Valiant / slant 6 auto

The kits from carbs only work just like other electric chokes- the factory "neutral" setting is putting the mark in the middle of the gauge. You can tighten or loosen the tension on the spring that closes the choke by loosening the screw holding the big plastic bump and turning it in either direction. However, I really doubt this is the problem since this unit should take some time for the spring to heat up enough to move the choke.

Try this- disconnect and plug the hose that goes to the choke pulloff diaphragm. Now start the car and se if the choke still slams open immediately. I bet it doesn't.

Now go reconnect that hose and adjust the pulloff by bending the "u" in the linkage until i make about a 1/8 inch gap between the choke butterfly and the side of the carb throat when the choke diaphragm piston is fully seated.

Some pictures of the carb would be very helpful if you can post them.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

I did your test and it went just as you said it would, so now to try to adjust. Do I need to manually pull back the throttle and rest it on fast idle cam (highest step) then make this adjustment in the linkage? Or not? Is the piston considered fully seated when its down towards the "saucer looking disc" diaphram. I know probably a stupid question..

The piston is fully seated when it is sucked in all the way (down towards the saucer). If you have a hand held vacuum pump like a Mity-Vac, attach it to the choke pulloff diaphragm and suck up about 18 inches of vacuum. That should fully seat the piston.

If you don't have a hand held pump, disconnect the hose that goes to the choke pulloff diaphragm from the carburetor at the nipple on the carburetor. Now push the plunger on the diaphragm in until it is seated. Holding the plunger in, stick something in the hose you removed form the carburetor (like a golf tee or screwdriver) to plug the hose and keep the plunger from extending again.

Once the plunger is depressed and held there, disconnect the Carbs Only choke rod and place the fast idle screw on the highest step of the fast idle cam. Now lightly close the choke flap and see how far from the edge of the carb throat the edge of the flap is. This gap should be roughly 1/8 of an inch. Bend the U in the linkage to adjust the gap. Once that is set, unplug and reattach the hose, reattach the Carbs Only rod, and see if the car starts correctly and if the choke works right.

This is really a Mickey-Mouse/shadetree mechanic way to set this. You really should get the factory service manual and the right tools to adjust and set the carb. The method I described above is OK and will get you by, but you should take the time to set it correctly.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

You should also check out the Holley 1945 manual and training video linked to in this thread.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

..I have another question about the choke diaphragm piston itself. It has 2 different in and out movements within the same part/piston, thus it's confusing me as which movement am I to look at to consider it "seated".

Here are some pics showing what I'm seeing...
1. Pic 1 shows me pulling up on the linkage w/ the U bend, towards the carb, passenger side of car..<img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5047/5266197615_94f0139e37.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="up action 1" />
2. Pic 2 shows me pushing the linkage down the other way.<img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5284/5266804266_a8a90641b2.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="down action 1" />
3. pic 3 shows the entire mechanism up.<img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5048/5266804516_a349f94316.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="whole mechanism up" />
4. Pic 4 shows me pushing the entire mechanism down.<img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5085/5266804644_0fa4ab9192.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="whole mechanism down" />
5. Pic 5 is an overview.<img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5249/5266804120_dcf2a9a151_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="carb overview" />

So which is it? Do Pics 1 and 2 show piston seated and not seated, or do Pics 3 and 4, show piston seated and not seated? Iv'e gone to some trouble to to display my ignorance, but please bare w/ me...Thanks

If it were me... I would remove the pull-off link and "flatten-out" the second small "v" bend I see, up by the carb end of the linkage.
(Stick it in the vice jaws and close the vice on it then tap with a hammer to "fine-tine")
This will make the rod longer.
In general, the pull-off rod should be near the middle of the slot and not as close to the "more action" end of the slot, as it is currently set.
DD

Like Doc says, getting rid of the extra kink would allow the choke to stay on and not pop open like you described. Right now it is set up to come off too early or too quick before your car has had a chance to warm up. I believe the carb manual says you should have about a 3/16 gap in the choke blade and the horn once it starts, not pop open all the way. Then as it warms it should gradually open all the way.
You may have to set your electric choke for a little more pull to keep it shut, (more tension on the choke blade).

Hang in there, this is a simple job fine tuning the choke operation. Once you get it dialed in you will have a nice trouble free set up!

Great pics! makes helping you very easy!

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

I have been holding back as I have not seen an aftermarket electric choke for one of these carburetors all mounted. By the way, that’s a real nice looking carburetor.

As Doc said you may have to lengthen the pull off rod. Also by loosening the screws holding the black housing of the electric choke you should be able to turn it clock or anti clock wise to enrich (+) or lean (-) the choke mixture. What turning the black cover dose is add or remove the tension of the bi-metal coil housed within it which changes the amount of choke opening.

Where your choke is pulling off too quickly, turn it in “+â€￾ direction. There should be some kind of indexing marks on it to gage the adjustment, if not make some with White Out, or pencil.

One other test you can perform is taking a length of vacuum hose, attach it to the pull-off diaphragm & suck on it to see how it reacts to vacuum. This will give you an idea how far it moves once the engine starts, and help to determine how much to modify the length of that rod.

When the engine is stone cold, as in over night cool down, you can simulate a cold start. By hand, rotate the throttle to wide open, and than release it. Now suck on the vacuum line to figure out how much adjusting needs to be made in the pull-off rod to pull open the butterfly about 3/16th of an inch (use a 3/16th drill bit as a gage). repeat this simulated cold start several times making sure it performs properly.

Simulate engine warm-up by opening the throttle just enough to move the high idle cam down one step at a time, and observe how the choke butterfly reacts. It should become floppy, and want to be open wider as the last step is applied.

Reattach the vacuum line to the carburetor, set the choke by depressing the gas peddle to the floor, letting up, and start the engine. Adjust the high idle to around 1500 rpm at higest point on cam.

Now to set the electric bi-metal pull off. Loosen the screws just enough to be able to rotate the black metal housing. You will have to figure out which way to turn it and how much, and you may have to repeat this several times over several cold starts until it is dialed in.

Once you get it all adjusted, reset the high idle so the engine is on the highest idle step, and adjust to about 1500 rpm if needed. Than as the bi metal spring heats up by an applied voltage from the ignition, the choke will start to open wider until it is full open, about the same time the engine is getting warm. As the choke opens, one can kick down the idle one step at a time with a blip of the gas peddle.

Sometimes, for what ever reason, the electric choke control, will open the choke too fast before the engine is warm enough to run smoothly on a leaner mixture. If this is the case, Holley has a “thermister**â€￾, that can be added into the choke circuit that reads coolant temperature, and slows down the movement of that bi-metal spring to slow the choke’s opening.

Adjusting this device will take a bit of fiddling around, as it is a balancing act to match engine warming, to speed of choke opening.

** A thermister is a device that is temperature sensitive, and changes electrical resistance. When in series with the 12 volts feeding the electric choke on a cold engine, it will reduce that 12 volts which slows the choke’s opening. Once it warms up, a full 12 volts is delivered to the choke allowing easer warm/hot starting during subsequent starts.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

Bill,

I thought that the electric chokes from SL6Dan's link came with one. I read where guys were trying to figure out where to mount them...........

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG