HELP
I did the HEI conversion. Used the gm module Ford coil and relay.
I have 13 volts at module and coil. Wired as so, with module on
table plastiv side up and opening of crescent facing me. twelve new Blue Streak Cap and rotor. Terminal b is 12 volt. Terminal c is coil trigger. Other two go to dizzy. Swap them for hard start or bad run.
I am using the Ford hei coil with male coil tower.I used the Standard wire and cable connecter because it had a red and green wire
setup. Wired red on coil to power and green as trigger
to module. Acts as if no spark. HELP Ramcharger sat a year bcause
of BAAAAD timing chain. Turns over fine. I DONT want to see if cam
gear has two or more dots but may have to if the setup is correct.
I need coil pinout and module voltages all 4 pins if known. thanks c.r.

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brass handled wrench,bfh and a BIG screw
driver. If it aint drawn blood you aint done.

Hi shadetree, and welcome to the forum. I have the same parts for the HEI setup as you have, pics come later.
The letter markings for the HEI module connectors are for the Standard LX301 module.
Take the relay posts first:
30 - power enters from source (battery?).
85 is ground.
86 is the trigger that activates the relay, 12 volt input from a source that gives current when the ignition switch is in 'run' position, and cuts the power that activates the ignition relay when you turn the ignition key to 'off' position. A good choice is the wire feeding the old ballast resistor (a dark blue wire on my Aspen). NOTE: The ballast resistor also has a wire from the starter relay that bypass the ballast resistor to give full power to the old ECU when starting. If your engine starts and then dies immediately when you release the key, you have probably incorrectly used that wire as a trigger for the HEI ignition relay.
87 is power from the relay when it is activated by the trigger, it connects to the red wire from the the coil connector, as well as to the connector marked 'B' on the module.
The connector on the module next to 'B' is marked 'C' and is for the coil's green negative cable (the other green cable from the same coil connector can be used as the input to a rev counter). The colors referred to are for the wires in the Standard or Summit 'pig-tail' for the Ford-style coil; red for the 'plus' connector on the coil and green for the 'minus' connector. See pics in the HEI faq.
On the opposite side of the module are connectors marked 'W' and 'G', and they connect to the distributor wires. The narrow connector 'G' is for the brown/black wire from the dizzy if I don't remember wrong, the orange dizzy wire goes to the normal width connector 'W'. If the engine don't run good, try switching the dizzy wires.
The module must be grounded properly, I attach the ground wire for the relay to the designated ground screw mount for the module (the one nearest 'B' and 'C'), and from there a large wire to a good ground (actually to the bolt attaching the ground strap between engine and body in my car).

Here is an illustration without a relay that is copied off bronco.com, I cannot establish a connection to that site to confirm permission to use it, it is also viewed near the page bottom here.


The relay is placed between the ignition switch and coil '+' and module 'B' wires.

To illustrate why a relay is needed, I measured the voltage (engine not running) at my battery to be 12.27 Volt, and the voltage at the ballast resistor connector to 11.96 Volt! The power needed to trigger the relay is very low.

Olaf

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Aspenized

Here are some pictures of the HEI setup i made for my '77 Aspen Wagon. I used a 1.5 mm aluminum sheet and some aluminum pieces that I found in 'the big box full of useful stuff I didn't throw away 'cause I might need it some day', and carefully machined and assembled it all in my high-tech workshop. I use a Standard #LX301 HEI module and a Standard #FD478 Ford-style coil with a Summit #PCO-5712PT 'pig-tail' (same as Standard #S-539) for connecting the wires, a relay - any good relay will do, mine happen to be a Bosch, and I use the relay wire attachment 'pig-tail' for easy attachment in case of a relay replacement without having to dismantle the whole unit, and a fuse holder for a flat type fuse. it came with a 15 amp fuse and I'll go with that for now.


I mounted the wiring for the relay, fuse and module in a way that they have some protection from direct water spray, but still can be reached and replaced without unmounting the whole unit.


The beautiful, high-quality heatsinks are taken from a Compaq server with twin Pentium II cpu's that I found in the container behind a computer store; the width almost matches the coil 100%, and the holes for the screws were enlarged a small amount and lined up perfectly with the holes in the module! Jeez, these heatsinks are so well made that you just wanna hold them...

The battery voltage (engine not running).

If you ever doubted the need of using a relay to provide juice from a good source like the alternator or battery for the HEI module and coil; this is the voltage at the input wire to the ballast resistor. The voltage loss through the old wire harness makes it unusable to power the module. When using this source only to trigger the relay, it doesn't matter if the voltage is low, the power required to trigger the relay is very low.


Added some pieces to mount the unit, there is a slight curve to the panel where I'll mount it, so the brackets look a bit funny.

Almost finished, looks OK...


My sophisticated high-tech workshop

I will add some more detailed pics later, also from the finished installation in the car.

Olaf.

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Aspenized

Nicely done!

Please post the final install photos.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Olaf, yours looks amazingly similar to mine!


I am using the genuine GM module for an `81 trans Am because that's what was available NOS for under $35, so I went with it. Can't see it in these pics, but it's screwed to the back of the heat sink.

I did not use a relay at first, and I was rewarded with an always-running engine. I could turn off the engine, diconnect the battery, and walk away and the fool thing just would not shut down.

A relay fixes that!

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If it was easy, everybody would be doing it.

Hi coconuteater64, I think you have posted those pics earlier, and they were also contributing to using pc heat sinks for my setup, thanks! Your aluminum pieces were bigger than the ones I had, and besides i have limited space. I'll post the installed pics here later today or tomorrow.

I can give you all a link to one a very clean installation, and there I also found the part number for the original GM heat sink:

ACDELCO 10474610 heat sink.

Take a look at this HEI installation from one of our members (I have asked him to publish pics of his car rebuild too, you hear that Greg?).

Olaf

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Aspenized

I have a heat sink very similar to the original you posted the link to, except mine came from a voltage regulator for an old Apple computer.

One thing is for sure, our modules will never overheat!

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If it was easy, everybody would be doing it.

I did have to drill out the holes on the AC DELCO heatsink a bit to fit the BOSCH BIM024 module i used,but as it is made of aluminium/alloy is wasn't a drama.

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DRIVE IT,DON'T HIDE IT

What a great thread. Good photos, and entertaining writing. It would be nice to see a photo of the final unit on the car. Thanks for taking the time to document your work.

Sam

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I just did an HEI upgrade on my truck and had some problems blowing up HEI modules. I realized that I may not have been exactly keeping my HEI module cool enough. So I took a 4"X3" old aluminum Pentium 3 heat sink and the fan that came with it and mounted my HEI module to it. With the appropriate heat-sink compound of course. I wired the heat-sink fan to draw from the HEI's relay power out so that if my ignition is on the fan is going. So far so good!! COOL as a cucumber to the touch even after a highway drive.
I can post pics but my set-up is a little more "mad-max" than the others in this thread. lol Your guys stuff looks pretty.

-Marc

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1965 D100 225 slant 6, NP435 Utiline.

GM bolted these modules to the body of the distributor and they lasted for decades. I'm using a real GM module I pulled from a late 70s pickup. My heat sink is from an LT1 Caprice. Those cars had the module and coil bolted to the front of the left cylinder head. Why the massive overkill? This works fine:

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Joshua

My heat sink is my inner fender. More than six years of Texas summers, road trips, and traffic have caused no failures.

GM 4-pin HEI module on a stockish 225, Accel EI coil (yellow can) in the Slant's factory bracket.

I do have some chunks of extruded heat sink, and plan to use them one day. But, if it ain't broke ...

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"When you find a big kettle of crazy, it's best not to stir it." - Pointy-haired Boss

1964 Valiant V200, 225/Pushbutton 904
BBD, CAI, HEI, LBP, AC, AM/FM/USB, EIEIO

Well Joshua, we're natural born killers!
It's really very simple, one thing is posting a picture of the specific module heat sink and bracket, an other thing is finding it! A lot of time has passed since the first time the pics of that original GM solution was posted, until I found the part number and link to one supplier of that GM heat sink, and posted it above. I have no junkyard full of american cars and trucks in the 'hood, and money is a scarce commodity even when I can buy things new, so much of what I need is handmade by me. Some of us also simply find a pleasure in making things, regardless of what others think of the results!

Olaf.

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Aspenized

I did the conversion on my 65 Dart conv. and it runs perfect with new life. My only hassel was getting the new distributer lined up. I had to go back to the basics and find TDC. The super six now screams and will scream even loader when the new exhaust gets installed next week. I was a happy guy when I got it right. It beats that Petronix all to hell that I had installed prior.

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Ken

65 Dart Convertible Super Sixed

Good to hear, krosan. I have never had any ignition problems either, after starting the HEI first time. If you haven't done it yet, I can recommend a recurve of the distributor. Make a search in the forum, and you will find plenty of threads containing the info you need to do the job.

Olaf

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Aspenized