I have an 82 ram 150 pickup 2wd.
I have 2 questions:

1. I do not know what carb i have. I know its a Holley. But it has the vaccum ports of a Holley 1945. But it has a bowl vent solenoid and there is also a vacuum port on the top back passenger side of the carb that idk what to do with. There is also no idle solenoid stop. Im not sure why. The part number on the side is 9153 2431. Im not sure which is the Holley part#. Theyre are side by side.

2. Im trying to figure out my vacuum system and fix it. When i got the truck last month. It had some vacuum lines that were missing and were not hooked up so ive been trying to fix that.. One problem, I have a chilton repair manual but the vacuum diagram thats in that is different from the one that is on the wheel well on the truck under the hood. That is why i am confused.

These are both from the fender.





sorry im not quite sure how to post pics.

If anyone could post some pictures of their vaccum system in their truck thats the same year, it would be much appreciated. I have two charcoal canisters in my system and the lean burn stuff.

Thanks

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Old truck: 82 D150 225, 2bbl, dutra duals, 2.5" straight pipe to dual 2.5" tail pipes. Mud tires, 4spd, old forest service truck.
Current truck: 98.5 Ram 2500 ccsb, sport, 24v cummins, 5spd, 4.5" lift, 35's, 5" straight pipe.

Judging from your vacuum diagram, it looks like you have a Holley 1945 carburetor but a Spark Control Computer (or Electronic Spark Advance, or ESA as labelled on the sticker) that runs the timing advance on the distributor.



Hook the hoses up as described in the diagrams.

If you are trying to increase power and fuel economy, you will need to dump the ESA computer controlled ignition for a standard electronic ignition system. The good news is switching to HEI from ESA is a very simple and fairly cheap swap. You will need to make sure that your carburetor has a ported vacuum for the distributor vacuum advance though. You just need to make sure it has a port that has no vacuum with the throttle closed but that gets vacuum as the throttle is opened.

You might have to fine tune the timing advance curve on the new distributor you get when you swap to HEI, but that isn't that hard.

Keep posting questions and pictures, we'll get you sorted out!

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

I know i have the Holley 1945 but it has the bowl vent solenoid like on a 6145. thats what im confused about. also if you look at the diagram how it is in the picture it shows on the top right of the carb a hose that goes to manifold vacuum source wich also has a vacuum delay valve. 2 things about that. 1 is that valve important? 2 why is that port not pictured on either the Holley 1945 or 6145 carbs? also what is that little filter looking thing on the egr solenoid do i need that?

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Old truck: 82 D150 225, 2bbl, dutra duals, 2.5" straight pipe to dual 2.5" tail pipes. Mud tires, 4spd, old forest service truck.
Current truck: 98.5 Ram 2500 ccsb, sport, 24v cummins, 5spd, 4.5" lift, 35's, 5" straight pipe.

The bowl vent solenoid is an emissions device that functions independent of the computer. It has to do with the charcoal canisters on the side of the truck and the collection of evaporating fuel vapors from the float bowl. It came on 1945 and 6145s. Leave it hooked up.

You might also have the curb idle stop solenoid. Leave this hooked up and functioning too.

I am not sure what that vacuum delay valve is. The carb should get all the vacuum it needs from the throat of the carb. Is there a chance that the goes up to the choke pulloff diaphragm? I don't think it is necessary for anything, even the choke pulloff diaphragm. If it is there, leave it alone, but if it is missing, don't worry about it.

Are you referring to the vacuum solenoid on the EGR vacuum amplifier? If you are dumping the EGR valve system (which I actually encourage you to do if you don't have to pas a visual smog equipment check) you can remove the EGR vacuum amplifier and all associated hoses and hardware. Just cap any vacuum fittings on the carb.

If you are keeping the EGR system intact and functional, then the purpose of that EGR solenoid is to control the timing of the vacuum signal being applied to the EGR valve. You will need to make sure all the hoses, the amplifier, the solenoid, and the electronic EGR timers on your fender are all hooked up correctly and functioning to keep the EGR system working right.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

oh ok that makes much more sense now.

I do not have a curb idle stop solenoid. What it shows in my diagram is the vaccum from the manifold going to the tube on the top of the carb on the passenger side in the back. That i guess is supposed to have a vacuum delay valve.

Yes i am reffering to the solenoid on the egr amplifier.

Im not sure if I have to go through a visual smog inspection. I do have to go through DEQ by th end of the year. My smog pump isnt hooked up anyways and i dont have the parts to hook it back up on the intake side.

So if i take the egr system off after going through DEQ what will i need to do? and what fittings need to be capped off? will i need the ccegr thing that is on the front of the engine? i read its a temperature valve for the egr. also where would the egr timers be?

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Old truck: 82 D150 225, 2bbl, dutra duals, 2.5" straight pipe to dual 2.5" tail pipes. Mud tires, 4spd, old forest service truck.
Current truck: 98.5 Ram 2500 ccsb, sport, 24v cummins, 5spd, 4.5" lift, 35's, 5" straight pipe.

If you still have one, you need to remove the catalytic. Running a carb and a cat and disabling the air pump will lead to a clogged catalytic converter very quickly. You cat might already be clogged. If you need to pass visual inspection, cut the cat out of the exhaust line, hollow it out, and reweld it back in.
If you want to remove the EGR system, start by removing the hose from the nipple on the EGR valve. Now, trace that hose and remove all hoses that are in its circuit, as well as all mechanical devices connected to the hose until you get to the carb. Leave the CCEGR valve in the radiator/cylinder head since it plugs a hole in your cooling system, but disconnect the hoses from it.

The EGR timer(s) is(are) a box, usually red or orange, mounted on the firewall with two or three wires going to it. It will be electrically connected to the EGR vacuum solenoid. It can stay mounted on the firewall and just unplugged from the EGR solenoid. You can unbolt the EGR vacuum amplifier and EGR vacuum solenoid from the head and remove them.

Doing that should clean out most of the extra hoses and items from under the hood.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

hah i guess you and me are on the same page with the cat. i wanted to do something like that anyways. but i dont have a welder or i would:(

ok so i have a rough idea of what hoses need to be pulled but, my vacuum system was messed up from the get go. thats why i was trying to fix it. but i should be able to fiure it out. what do i do with the ported vaccum line that is supposed to go to the distributor? i dont have a distributor with vac advance.

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Old truck: 82 D150 225, 2bbl, dutra duals, 2.5" straight pipe to dual 2.5" tail pipes. Mud tires, 4spd, old forest service truck.
Current truck: 98.5 Ram 2500 ccsb, sport, 24v cummins, 5spd, 4.5" lift, 35's, 5" straight pipe.

let me know if i can plug any of these on the carb: ESA signal tube, Diverter valve tube, Egr tube, and the ported spark tube.

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Old truck: 82 D150 225, 2bbl, dutra duals, 2.5" straight pipe to dual 2.5" tail pipes. Mud tires, 4spd, old forest service truck.
Current truck: 98.5 Ram 2500 ccsb, sport, 24v cummins, 5spd, 4.5" lift, 35's, 5" straight pipe.

Until you switch out your spark controlled ignition system (including the distributor) for a standard electronic ignition system, you MUST make sure the ESA hose goes to the computer, and you MUST make sure that the computer vacuum transducer (the thing the hose hooks to on the computer) holds a vacuum. The vacuum hose and transducer is one of the main ways the computer figures out how much spark advance to give the engine.

When you get done pulling hoses, the only hoses going to or coming from the carb should be the ESA hose, the PCV hose, the bowl vent hose, the canister purge hose, and the hose that actuates the heated air door on the air cleaner (the one labeled "to temperature sensor"). Every other vacuum tap on the carb should be capped with the little rubber vacuum caps (including the ported vacuum advance hose). The ported vacuum advance hose will be used if and when you switch to a standard electronic ignition system and get a distributor with vacuum advance.

The ported spark tube, EGR tube, and diverter valve tube should be disconnected and the nipples capped.

By the way, if you DO remove the ESA computer and distributor, let me know. I might be interested in buying it off you.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

ok i will make sure that i keep that hose connected.

well i thought about doing the electronic ignition, how much would that cost?

The previous owner put a remanufactured esa computer on i think back in may or so. idk id have to look at the receipt in the glove box. Im not sure in how good of condition my distributor is. But if i do do the switch i will let you know, if i remember.

I plan on doing a tuneup in the spring. If i have the money i might do the conversion too.

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Old truck: 82 D150 225, 2bbl, dutra duals, 2.5" straight pipe to dual 2.5" tail pipes. Mud tires, 4spd, old forest service truck.
Current truck: 98.5 Ram 2500 ccsb, sport, 24v cummins, 5spd, 4.5" lift, 35's, 5" straight pipe.

The conversion is actually fairly cheap. The cheapest and easiest (but also most effective) ignition swap is to switch to HEI. Depending on where you get your parts, you can spend under $20 or over $200 to swap to HEI. In the FAQ post in the engine section there is a link to how to swap to HEI. However, since you have a lean burn system you actually have an easier swap ahead of you. If you do decide to do HEI, post a question about how to do it and I will walk you through swapping a lean burn ignition system to HEI.

Try running the spark advance computer for now. It might actually work if the computer is new and everything is set up right. Be sure to check for timing chain stretch and vibration dampener slippage. There isn't much to fail in a lean burn distributor. Just make sure the pickup(s) is/are gapped correctly and the cap and rotor are in good shape.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.