if my brain wasn't toast already
you guys have fried it now!!

hahahaha

okee dokee

here's what I heard above -
bad carb, bad carb

I
know!!

lolol

the jet's that I have been running in there until recently were 61 and 68
now they are 50 and 61

the throttle plates are sitting at flat when in the postition it runs at now

which has always bugged me as it seems that there should be at least a little air moving through the damn thing at idle?

have no idea how to adjust the pump cam
when I adjust the idle bleed screws I can defintely make a dif in the noise etc.(wobble,wobble) - both screws will make a dif in the idle rather quickly - within a half a turn or so

this thing ran like an sob everywhere for a long time - we are talking 80+ in the goforittwoormorelanes in the bay area - as fast - or faster as anything there
did absolutely beautiful in the mountains - loaded to the nuts
4 round trips to Santa Rosa and back - again - from there to here - loaded to the nuts and having traffic "chase" me to pass me - when I choose to let them pass me

until the carb gurped and decided to finally mess with me I have been alost pleased with this thing

it worried me that maybe the smaller carb will leave it starving - but then again I have nothing to comapre it to right now

so...
as the stomach churns...

_________________
"I may be slow, but at least I'm not very fast!"
'69 A108 - 225, 727, 3.55, MSD6AL, a.k.a.-the brick

Is this a synchronous or progressive carb? If it is synchronous, why the heck are you running two different sized main jets?

_________________
Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

When did you change the jets to the smaller ones?

Smaller jets in this big a carb will make it run very lean. A lean surge should be very apparent, and you will find it dipping into the power valve quite a bit.

What power valve did you put in there? What was the old one? The numbers are stamped in the metal outside the diaphram.

The Large difference in jet size is interesting. The 2300 is a syncronous carb. Both plates move at the same time. Do you have a split intake manifold?

What is the number on the throttle body? It should be Holley # 112-2

CJ

_________________
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

both plates do NOT move at the same time - the main plate moves up to a certain point - then it drags the other side open

the sizes i have in there now - are what i had before - and since it wasn't running the way i thought it should - someone suggested larger - so that's why the larger ones were in there - and now - when I give it the gas it reaches a certain rpm and seems to act like it's starving - so i am guessing i will have to go back to the larger main again

have no idea on the power valve - when i rip it apart again - i will check

oh - and the #'s stamped in the horn - are 3250 (brain working here so bear with me?!) but when i went looking for part's - no one knew what these meant?

so do you guys know what the 3250# makes this carb??

later
d

_________________
"I may be slow, but at least I'm not very fast!"
'69 A108 - 225, 727, 3.55, MSD6AL, a.k.a.-the brick

Sounds like you might have a 2305 staged two barrel. They came in 350 CFM and 500 CFM varieties. Could you post some pictures? Especially of the throttle linkage between the primary and the secondary plates? That might help ID the carb.

_________________
Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

will give it a shot

_________________
"I may be slow, but at least I'm not very fast!"
'69 A108 - 225, 727, 3.55, MSD6AL, a.k.a.-the brick

Sorry if they are not perfect - it's freezing out there!!

_________________
"I may be slow, but at least I'm not very fast!"
'69 A108 - 225, 727, 3.55, MSD6AL, a.k.a.-the brick

Those are good enough for me. Looks like you have a Holley 2305 staged two barrel carb. The throttle linkage that delays opening the second valve is the dead giveaway. Holley 2300 rebuild kits should work for this carb. These came in 350 CFM and 500 CFM varieties. DusterIdiot recently played with a 350 CFM one and I believe he determined that it isn't a good street carb.

These are based on the 2300 design, which is the front half of the popular Holley four barrel carb (I think the 4160 model). Loads of parts will interchange between the four barrel and the 2300/2305, so you can get metering blocks, jets, power valves, etc...

While this carb is very tuneable, I think you would be happier with a Carter BBD or a Holley 2280. You can run your kickdown and the carb will be closer to what your motor wants. You also would see a big improvement if fuel efficiency and power if you worked up a cold air intake instead of sucking all the hot air from the top of the doghouse.

Hope that helps some. Maybe DI can chime in and offer some advice. Or Sam Powell. I bought the 2305 that I sold to DI from Sam and he also ran it on the street and might have some tuning advice.

One thing I did notice is that you are missing your choke assembly. I do believe that some of these carbs used a small vacuum passage on the choke assembly, so you should check that there isn't a vacuum leak on one of the holes where the choke should go.

_________________
Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

thanks Reed!

after i re-installed it i sprayed all around it and did not notice any leaks

guess i will wait for more input here and try to decide what i can do at that point

wish it was running better and i was in better shape to take a run up your way - have been wanting to come up and see all the folks that i haven't since i left that area in the early 80's

d

_________________
"I may be slow, but at least I'm not very fast!"
'69 A108 - 225, 727, 3.55, MSD6AL, a.k.a.-the brick

The vacuum leak would be fairly obvious, and I could be completely wrong. I wonder about why the choke was removed from that carb. Where did you get it? Was it from a racer who modded it for track use? Increasing airflow is the only reason I could imagine not keeping the choke intact.

I do remember the accelerator pump on that carb not being the typical Holley style pump with the cam. It was adjustable, but not much.

I agree with the diagnosis that if turning the idle speed screw doesn't change the idle speed then you have a problem somewhere else. I would first make that the accelerator cable isn't too short and holding the throttle open. Then I would start looking at timing issues.

_________________
Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

HERE'S a good deal on a cable style kickdown linkage that could be adapted to your setup.

_________________
Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Now that we understand what you are working on, I'll hazard that the carburetor is more appropriate than a 2300 of like size.

The 4412 number may be on the metering block, not the carb body itself.

The throttle body that the throttle plates are in is clearly not the part number noted above.

Was there a reason that you changed the jets out to the smaller ones? Fuel economy?

A 500 cfm anything isn't a mileage carburetor on these engines. I'd think the 350 cfm version would be wonderful across the board, but would require some tuning.

Unfortunately, anything that didn't come on a slant six originally is going to be a challenge to tune. A Carter 500 cfm AFB or Edelbrock of the same size would be a lot less hassle, and will provide better economy than the 2300/2305 2 bbl's.

A 2305 is a rare bird. It's not something folks are going to see every day, so if you snag something else to install, don't toss it. You may find a use for it later on. It would be good trading stock, especially for a performance application. You may be able to rig a straight across trade for a used AFB to the right person.

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Ceej, i put the smaller jets back in because since i put the larger ones in years ago it has always smelled like it was using too much fuel

I figure that if i can find someone that wants to trade i would in a second!

at this point i am still at a loss as to how i should progress - do i take it off and apart again to change back to the larger jets and check to see what size the pump is etc etc etc

_________________
"I may be slow, but at least I'm not very fast!"
'69 A108 - 225, 727, 3.55, MSD6AL, a.k.a.-the brick

What was you fuel mileage?

Without a charcoal canister, most carburetors will be stinky. Lot's of soot in the tailpipe or no?

If you were getting anything better than 15 with your setup and driving style, it was probably jetted right.

The jets can be changed by pulling the float bowl off, leaving the carburetor in place. I pull one of the bottom screws with something to catch the fuel placed beneath. Once you have removed the float bowl, replace the jets. Put the float bowl back on. As long as you don't disturb anything else, it should be fine.

I've never worked on a 2305, so haven't had the opportunity to look at the Pump lever.

CJ

_________________
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

actually,
until it recently started to act up real bad,

in other words - when it was running

i sometimes would get close to 20mph
and yes - soot and black smoke while it was warming up

i know about changing the jets
it's just that i have no idea what pump # is on it and that's underneath and was wondering if i should actually take it out and check the number

the one that came with the new kit seemed like it was too deep and ended up stuffed within the cover so am not sure if i should use it or not at this point

just came in a few minutes ago from trying to start it and it refuses to fire again

typical

later
d

_________________
"I may be slow, but at least I'm not very fast!"
'69 A108 - 225, 727, 3.55, MSD6AL, a.k.a.-the brick