If you were getting 20 mpg, go back to the bigger jets. Your fine.

Are you saying the accelerator pump that came with the kit wasn't the same as the one you took out?

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

it appears to be a larger rubber
deeper

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"I may be slow, but at least I'm not very fast!"
'69 A108 - 225, 727, 3.55, MSD6AL, a.k.a.-the brick

You may have gotten the 50cc accelerator pump rather than the 30cc. You can buy just the diaphragm.

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Joshua

would i find one that would fit in one of my one barrel carbs?

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"I may be slow, but at least I'm not very fast!"
'69 A108 - 225, 727, 3.55, MSD6AL, a.k.a.-the brick

No, your 1 bbl carbs use a different type of pump.
Shoot a photo of the one that came with the kit and if possible the one that was in the carburetor. If I have the correct pump diaphram from one of my kits, I'll mail one to you.

If you can get a photo of the accelerator pump housing and as best you can of the pump linkage itself. Pretty hard in a van, I know.

The 30cc pump is contoured around the bolt holes a bit more than the 50cc pump. The 50cc pump is square and much thicker. I'll get a pic of a couple different pumps to illustrate later today.

In order to run a 500 cfm 2300, most slants will like a 50cc pump. The 2305, I don't know. Sounds like you were running fine on a 30cc pump.

The one that comes in the kit should be a 30cc diaphram. It's not a plunger style pump. The pump diaphram is on the bottom of the float bowl. There is also a check in the system to keep it from syphoning that fits under the shooter. If you removed the shooter, there may have been a check that goes in there. Unless the diaphram is being depressed to overcome the weight, fuel should not drip from the shooter.
Another type is built into the pump itself. Of those there are two types, a hanging ball, and an umbrella type. We'd have to see what you had in there and what came with the kit to help you there.
Check in the used book store, or library for Holley Carburetor books. I have a pretty good one called "How to Build & Power Tune Holley Carburetors." There are others that will help as well.

Something else to consider: If the pump is set up too tight, engine vibration can cause fuel to dribble from the shooter. Adjustment, is important. If the pump lever is too tight, damage can be done to the diaphram if it get's over extended.
Having no experience with your particular throttle body, I can't speak to the lever adjustment. My Holley book doesn't describe that particular carburetor. Everything above the throttle body is apparently the same as a 2300 model, with different tuning due to the progressive operation.

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Okee dokee here are a couple of more pics

The shots above and to come are how the carb looks on the rig
It was running set up like this but hasn't lately


left side is the original --- right side came with the kit


the screw is all the way compressed - if I let it out at all, it never runs??

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"I may be slow, but at least I'm not very fast!"
'69 A108 - 225, 727, 3.55, MSD6AL, a.k.a.-the brick

OK, you have a 30cc pump. The secondary needs to be adjusted open just a skoche more to allow the primary plate to be closed a bit. If the photo is of the thottle plates at rest, you will notice a slot that runs vertically in the primary venturi. That is the transfer slot. That needs to be covered more, (almost completely,) for the idle circuit to work correctly.

It's hard to do this via the internet. Is there anybody close to you that knows Holley's? I'd think the closest would be the crowd in Chico. Perhaps somebody in Redding... ?

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Well, by adjusting the screw out a bit I can completely cover the slot - which is done now

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"I may be slow, but at least I'm not very fast!"
'69 A108 - 225, 727, 3.55, MSD6AL, a.k.a.-the brick

oh and Ceej

just in GAS to go to either of those places is close to $25.00 for me

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"I may be slow, but at least I'm not very fast!"
'69 A108 - 225, 727, 3.55, MSD6AL, a.k.a.-the brick

In order to idle, the secondary must be opened more. Look at the bottom of the carb.
There may have a small bolt or something similar that stops the secondary plate. Can't tell from the photos.
The correct adjustment is to loosen it till the plate fully closes, then tighten the gap up till it just touches, and give it 1/4 turn to nudge it open. With the slant, I've found that if you reach that 1/4 turn, go just a tiny bit further. All of my experience with these have been on four barrels. That should allow you to idle down the primary and keep idle mixture controllable.

Like I told you before, I'm not familiar with the 2305, so hopefully DusterIdiot will chime in. There may be a different method for setting the secondary plate idle stop. If I had one in front of me, it wouldn't take long to figure it out.

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

I hear you Dan. Being disabled on a fixed income has got to draw a vacuum.

Better get those kids to pay rent!

If I had a spare 500 Edelbrock laying around, I'd make the trade. The only one in my posession is on the Hooptie.

It's a 500 mile drive for me to get to your place... And over the worst pass on I-5. Darn it. Still thinking about it.

Check with Kidd and see if he has A Carter or Edelchicken 500. He collects all sorts of things. Have you got a 4 bbl intake? I have a spare Offy, though I wasn't looking to part with it at this stage.

Do you have anything you can bolt on to get around, like a BBD or something?

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

well, under the stop for the secondary there is an adjusting screw

so you are saying the secondary should be open a bit more

when i push it up, i can see the other slot - it appears that the plate is close enough to be almost a 1/16th away from the slot

as it sits now, the main plate and it's connecting rod - are not affecting the secondary adjustment

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"I may be slow, but at least I'm not very fast!"
'69 A108 - 225, 727, 3.55, MSD6AL, a.k.a.-the brick

alright so this is what I did so far

I adjusted both plates so that they are just covering the slots when I snap it / pull it into a shut down stage

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"I may be slow, but at least I'm not very fast!"
'69 A108 - 225, 727, 3.55, MSD6AL, a.k.a.-the brick

OK! Now we're cooking with gas!

The rod is supposed to slide in the slot to keep the secondary from opening up before the primary is substantially wide open. By adjusting the secondary to be opened slightly more, there will be enough air for the primary to be closed a bit more.
In your kit, there should have been instructions for setting the secondary idle. Usually, that will be 1/4 turn beyond contact. By contact, that means, just when the adjustment screw touches the fully closed secondary plate lever.
I usually will adjust it open another 1/16 or 1/32 turn tighter. Somewhere around that beyond the 1/4 turn setting. Slants are very good at wanting the secondary slightly more open to get the throttle plate on the primary in the right place for an appropriate idle setting.

I think the last time I bought just a 30 cc pump diaphram, it cost about $7. If yours is in good shape, just use it. If it isn't leaking, your good to go. As long as the correct WOT gap setting is there, you won't damage it.
The correct way to adjust it is to hold the throttle lever at WOT, and measure the gap when the pump is compressed all the way. There should be .015" or so gap between the lever and the diaphram pivot. Yours is a bit different than the average 4 bbl. but as long as there is a bit of gap, you won't tear the diaphram when you tromp down on it with your heavily booted foot. The measurement is not made at idle setting.

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

well, there were no directions whatsoever in the kit - NAPA yaknow

anyway,

how "closed" should the primary b?

should the slot be completely closed off or?

wish I had a shot of what the two plates should look like when close to the proper adjustment

I can adjust them which ever and wherever they need to be

_________________
"I may be slow, but at least I'm not very fast!"
'69 A108 - 225, 727, 3.55, MSD6AL, a.k.a.-the brick