i just did this on my valiant. it seems to be a nice upgrade.for a heatsink, i used a 1/4" piece of aluminum about 3x5, without fins. i mounted it on the fender with nuts under it (spaced out from the fender) so it has some air flow under it. anybody know how hot this should operate? i know the module is inside the dizzy on a chevy, so i'm thinking 250ish. i don't want it to overheat. here in the desert keeping things cool is a major concern. its gonna be 109 today thought about mounting it on the radiator support over a hole so cool (109) air can blow on it.also wondering about putting a capacitor on the power feed. is it needed?

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71 valiant 225, 904, 7 1/4
69 W200 power wagon 318, np435, np205, d44 front, d60 rear

Hi BUCKET 656, summertime in our part of the world makes the time it takes to respond to a post a bit erratic!
In your wiring diagram, the two dark blue wires are on the feed side of your ballast resistor, one is coming from the 'run' postion in your ignition switch, the other connects to the voltage regulator. The ballast resistor will lower the current feeding the coil. The output side of the ballast resistor is where one blue and one brown are connected. The blue wire feeds the coil, and the brown wire comes from the ignition switch's 'start' position, and will bypass the ballast resistor to give full power to the coil via the blue wire, only when starting the engine. You can measure the voltage coming in through the twin blue wires on the resistor feed side, it should be the same as your battery's voltage when the ignition switch is turned on. Measuring on the other side, depending on the size of the resistor, you should have a lower reading in the blue wire, the brown wire should give full voltage only when twisting your ignition key to the 'start' position. When converting to HEI, and the ballast resistor is removed and the wires are connected, the blue wire feeding the old coil is the one you should connect to the relay #86 to trigger it.

I guess you referred to the circuit diagram low in the HEI Electronic Ignition Retrofit How-To page. There is drawn one brown GROUND wire from the alternator's mount to a mounting screw for the coil bracket, and the same point would be a logic choice for the #85 ground wire for the relay. The input to the relay #30 terminal could be from the alternator output wire terminal, it is closer than the battery. Dan's text describing the diagram should cover it all.

If you bought the wire connector Standard #S-539 or it's twin, the Summit #PCO-5712PT 'Ford ignition coil connector', for your FD-478X coil, as shown in the picture on the same page, it will have two green wires running from the negative (-) terminal. One of them is connected to terminal C on the ignition module, and the other can be used for attaching a rev counter. The single red wire is positive (+) and connects to the module terminal B, and they both connect to the output from the relay's terminal #87 (with a red wire, of course?).

Another link worth browsing is MOPARZWALKER's thread HEI Conversion Finished and Lessons Learned.

The Napa Echlin MO3000 rotor should be used together with a Standard Bluestreak CH-410X dizzy cap (with copper alloy posts - stock are aluminum). The MO3000 rotor has a tip that is .060" longer than stock, and is made from a superior material. The only source other than Napa itself is dmauto.com, if ordering online, search by brand ECH to find it. If ordering by email, use the part number MO3000.
As far as I know, no one else makes it.

I hope this was useful to you. Also take a look at page 1 in this thread, there are posts from Dan and others regarding other ignition modules available in Australia. You should take the time to sit down and read through ALL pages in the threads about HEI, there are lots of tips. I also sent you a pm.

A lot of material about the same HEI conversion can be found in different AMC and Jeep forums, definitely worth looking through.

Re: powerwagonpaul's heatsink: Sounds perfect, just use plenty of the supplied paste (same as for a CPU) to ensure good heat transfer from the module to the heat sink. Your radio will tell you loud and (un)clear if you need a capacitor!

Olaf.

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Aspenized

Olaf
All i can say is that is awesome info.Thankyou,and everyone else for your time and information.Much appreciated.
Cheers
Greg

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DRIVE IT,DON'T HIDE IT

Is the Chrysler ignition system on my '77 D100 \6 so bad that I really should convert over to HEI? I was collecting all the infor from the various threads and looking elswhere on the web, and ran across a forum for Ford guys, and they were converting their points to the Chrysler ignition, search Dirt Cheap Electronic Ignitions. They had a similar "this is how you do it" thing and they were taking parts from MY TRUCK and putting them in their cars and calling it progress.

I checked some other discussions about the reliability of the Chrysler ignition and find folks who say its good.

I also priced spare resistors and they are about $7. ECU is $60 form NAPA and half that from a salvage yard, probably free from one of you guys with HEI.

Are there any merrits to a low energy ignition? I don't plan on running any big sterios or bright headlights, just a truck to drive around in.

Richie,

You make a good point.........not all the racers at the Puget Sound Raceways drag strip are running MSD's, etc. Some 10 second cars still run MOPAR ECU's.

No, it's not that bad especially if your running the older style ECU's. If you want to do a minor upgrade to yours, scrap the resistor and buy a 3 ohm Pertonix coil, either the round stock style or the HEI style. I installed the HEI version (60,000 volts) and the plugs burn very clean! Starts are crisp and power is strong! That gives your system a full 12 volts like the HEI.

You can always follow SL6Dan's advice on upgrading your wires, using the NAPA/Echlin MO-3000 rotor with the .060 longer tip and the CH-410 Blue Streak cap and some awesome NGK UR4GP/#2869 spark plugs gapped at .045. That is what I have been running the past 7 years or so...

Some of the new MOPAR ECU's are not made as good as the old ones and may die an early death, so it is always good to carry a spare. SL6Dan lists the better built ones and there is always some old stock at Old Car Parts.com in Kent, WA.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

I wouldn't call chrysler electronic ignition bad but, I wouldn't call it the best either. There is a comparison of GM HEI and chrysler electronic ignition on this site. The gist of the comparison is HEI has a stronger spark and no ballast resistor which was the weak spot
In chrysler set up.

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85 d-100 HEI 2BBl
06 Toyota Corrola

If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

If my car had come with properly-functioning Chrysler electronic ignition, that's probably what it would still have. Instead, it came with points.

When the points aggravated me enough, it just happened that the GM HEI parts became available cheaper than and before Chrysler parts did.

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"When you find a big kettle of crazy, it's best not to stir it." - Pointy-haired Boss

1964 Valiant V200, 225/Pushbutton 904
BBD, CAI, HEI, LBP, AC, AM/FM/USB, EIEIO

Aggressive Ted,

Thanks for the info. By old type ECU do you mean the 4 pin one that uses the single resistor to the coil? Just get the hot coil and nix the resistor?

I have the five pin ECU now. Can I get the hot coil and run a single resistor for the fifth pin? Until it breaks? I'll get the 4 pin ECU as the spare.

On both the 4 pin and 5 pin ECU, the fourth pin, from the negative terminal of the coil, is in circuit with a resistor. Will the hot coil provide the resistance that the 4th pin is expecting? It sounds like yes cause you have run it this way for 7 years. Just checking.

Again much appreciated,

richie

Richie,

After 1974 you should be able to use either box 4 or 5 pin, it will not matter. Pin 3 is basically dead. Pin 5 should always see 12 volts.
When racing the guys are running a single resistor set up and a hot coil, like .5 ohm to 1.5 ohms.
Some go a step further and are running with out the resistor (with either box), but use a 3 ohm coil.
I recently switched to that set up to eliminate the resistor and it works very well and produces a much hotter spark.
Sure, but the resistor is not in the circuit for pin 5, to power the box.
The resistor is in the circuit for the coil only......
If you buy a coil that doesn't require a resistor, like a 3 ohm coil you just eliminated a week link in the chain and simplified the ignition circuit.

If you need a schematic, send me a PM.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

I did the HEI conversion on my 1960 Dart. Your instructions were straightforward and your parts list perfect. I appreciate the work you put into posting the project.

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1960 Seneca 225 turbo soon to be EFI

Great thread, thanks for posting. I have the stock ECU in my 66 Valiant, got some work to do!

Valiantdogs

Hi KenUSA and Valiantdogs.
Ken, I really hope that SlantSixDan read that, it is always nice to get positive feedback!
I see you both are not entirely new to the forum, even if your postings are few. It would be nice if you could publish some pics of your installations in separate threads, not all cars are alike, and there may be new members that wish to get some inspiration from existing installations.

Happy New Year!

Olaf.

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Aspenized

Hi Olaf,
I too hope SlantSixDan reads that, what an awesome guy.
I will post pics of my car in the Slixers gallery asap.

Happy New Year!

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1966 Valiant Signet 225 /6 built by Dick Ott, RIP.

Hi Everybody,

A few days ago i gave HEI a second chance on my car (1965 valiant with a 170 slant six); bought a new module and installed everything again. Fired the engine up and it runs, but the same as previous time: when i throttle the engine will run very bad and finally fall out.

I put a stroboscope on it and saw that the ignition time doesn't advance but delayed(is this the good English word?) when i throttle. Now i've compared the old distributor with the new and there is really no difference (except for the contact points of course). I have also put (only) the electronic part onto the old distributor en have still the same problem.

Some pictures from the distributors:




Does anybody have an idea why my distributor delays? I've asked the same question here in the Netherlands but so far nobody knows it.

Thanks in advance!

Hi Willard,
By "delay" do you mean "retards"?

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1960 Seneca 225 turbo soon to be EFI