I'm getting ahead of the work at hand, but hey I'm feeling chatty so humor me

If we get up to that point, it's likely the axle in the Dart will need to be rebuilt. I'm pretty sure that it's the culprit behind the heavy grind/growl noise. Randy's Ring & Pinion up here has a full kit with all the bearings, seals, shims, etc for $65. That seem like a good deal? It's got pretty much everything but extra spider gears, but they have those in stock if necessary.

Is this work I can do with the axle on the vehicle? There isn't much for bench space for me to work, and nowhere that I can take it to do it either. The options are that I rebuild the axle on the vehicle (which I can give or take, but the learning experience would benefit me), or we take it to RR&P to have them do, and that's okay too since I know they do excellent work.

And on another note, will B-body torsion bars fit an A-body?

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

A-body bars are 35.8" long
B-Body (65-72 at least) are 41" long (and so are E-body bars)

Do you know what the number on the bars in your car are? (they may be on the anchor end, but you'll have to scrub hard to see the numbers... 664/665, 890/891, 892/893...)

-D.Idiot

Get a chilton Manual this is my guide for my used 7.25 in my case will only be doing seals and bearings as the R&P is good. that $65.00 price sounds good, need to place my order also. Maybe this will inspire me to do a complete 7.25 rebuild on the one that is ready to chuck the pinion bearing. Yes you can set up our own gears, Send me a pm with your address and I can send copies from my chilton as their is a lot of adjustments involved....Dave

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Troops on the battlefield have a far better view of the battle then the generals who lead them

I think her dad may already have a Chilton's. I'll take you up on that if it turns out he doesn't.

I just haven't looked yet, since I'm such a Hayne's fanboy

Oh, and DI; No clue on what the numbers are. I dug out a steam cleaner though so I'll probably find out tomorrow

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

Ah, you gotta love the Haynes manuals. Especially when it gives you the wrong torque specs for your flywheel bolts, resulting in flywheel separation at 5000+ RPMs (and 24lbs of boost), a ruined flywheel, and four of six bolts sheared off in the crankshaft!

Maybe Haynes just doesn't like Fords?
I have those same problems with Chiltons manuals when working on my Land Cruiser (Toyota), so I have the factory manuals and a Haynes to work out of when I need 'em.

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

I have a set of Chiltons complete from 1935 to 1977 and they cover some obscure makes that are no longer with us in addition to marine,farm implements and some foreign jobs, unfortunaly my father sold all the books prior to 1935 shortly before he passed away and was in the process of disposing of the whole collection when I offered to buy them from him. wouldn't take my money, so gave them to me...A fond memory I think of whenever I use them.............BTW: within the next two weeks hope to have a disc setup from a 70 duster for a very nominal cost (read Free)..stay tuned to see if the deal goes south on me or we have a go...Dave

Hmmm. I din't think the banjo rear ends were rebuildable at home. I would like more info on that. What about the separtion of the hosing to remove the gears. and pinion bearing preload. Don't these take special tools and presses? thx raydart

Well to be a stickler you could purchase the correct tools, but under normal circumstances common hand tools will sufice. Got fed up with the cost and quality of presses, so manufactured my own specificaly for axle work using 3 ton bottle jacks, pipe, steel plate and odds and ends. This was also made to press that stubborn pin in my Ball & trundle. This is extremely time consuming process setting and resetting the gears into the housing using marking compound to get the right mesh pattern or use a pinion depth gauge if available (hindsisght being 20/20 wish i'd spent the money for one) Each time you have to make a shim adjustment you have to disassemble add or delete shims install gears and repeat procedure until you have the pattern right. All manfactures provide a video tape as well as excellent tech support. I spent two weeks just familarizing myself with the process before I ever picked up a wrench...Dave