Ok here we go.

Been doing a lot of seraching on the site in the past few months and gee wiz have I learnt a lot of stuff about the slant 6. Im not too far away from finally assembling all of the engine so here is a final chance for some input before it's too late. I want the car to have a lot of power but I want to be able to drive it on the street, fuel consumption is no issue 98 octane will be used if needed. Here's what currently has been done.

Block has been preped, oil passages drilled out, oil pump mounting area smoothed out to match gasket, the 2 coolant passages blocked, acid tanked, decked minimal, bored and honed .045, lifter bores honed.

Head has port and polish job done, cylinder & gasket matched with polished chambers, 1.7" and 1.44" valves, bronze guides, hardeded seats on exhaust valves, moly retainers, double springs, teflon seals. my chambers are at 56cc.

Clifford HP manifold (unfortantly) I hear the older castings are better.
I polished mine up turned out sweet but there are some pits in the alli. Gasket matched, edelbrock 500cfm. Clifford 2 piece headers, contimplating DDuals due to the fact of the repostioning of the oil filter (aussie slant). And I hear better performance but a lot of grinding has to be done. Hey but what is'nt hard work.

Engine internals.
Crank minor polishing .010" over rebalanced, K1 H beam rods with oil holes drilled out, wiseco .045 over, engle kv1 cam, rollmaster timing set drillout ready for degree bushings, cam stop installed on timing cover, felpro gasket kit, arp studs on crank and head, drilled out oil pump (hardened gear yet to get from DD), romac balancer, new lifters, moly push rods standard length (Im hoping I didnt get these made too early), Reconditioned 1.5 standard rockers from rockerarms.com, bearing clearances are perfect.

The engine is going into a 4 door 62 valiant, auto, diff ratio not worked out yet.

My concerns before assembly,
The block that I had done all the prep work on as I find out later had a mill job done on it once before, and my pistons are .032" out of the block this would give me a static comp off 11.05 too much Iv'e been told so the pistons go to the machine shop next week so I can get my stati comp to 10.1.

Iv'e also seen the drilled out cam sprocket for the oil build up on the cam bearing, is this a common mod to do on a high performance build?

Seems the kv1 cam isnt a popular choice with my friends on SL6.org, esspecially for street driving. It has 270/270 duration, 108 deg lobe centres, 546/546 lift, duration of 239 deg. Valve events happen at intake opens at 14 closes at 45 exhaust opens at 51 closes at 8, all checked at .050". Iv'e degreed the cam and these valve events are true with the cam card. In one of my previous posts Joshua Skinner suggested this.

Your cam has 108.5° lobe centerline, it's ground 3° advanced so that the intake centerline is at 105.5° ATDC. The duration at those valve events is 239°, but you didn't give the checking clearance. If it's .050" of tappet lift I would advance the cam 4° more for an intake centerline of 101.5". You may very well have to advance the cam more or less to get that intake centerline. I'd also measure your piston to deck clearance and combustion chamber volume to make sure you're at around a 10:1 static compression ratio.

So the moral of the story is..... change my cenreline to 101.5deg or wrong cam choice, start again!

I know its long and winded but i dont want to scew it up and i want to try to get it right first time!!

Thanks again SL6.org



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No matter what degree you install that cam at it will need a reasonably loose converter and at least a 3.55 gear to have any low end at all.

I use a very similar cam and it worked very well with a 3500 stall and 3.91 gears.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

Glad to hear someones using the cam with success, just got the pistons back I have zero deck height, finally!!!

99-102 deg is the best range for intake centerline on a 225. I would install it at 100 deg.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

You have really done your homework before starting working on your engine, congratulations on a well planned job! We can't wait to see the pics, and later a video of the first burnout, perhaps??

Olaf.

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Aspenized

You should have run the DCR on that combination and stick, I'd take a guess that 11:1 might not have been that bad...I have a cam with about the same duration at 50, but a little less lift and the DCR came up at 8.9:1 with a SCR of 11.48:1 so it bleeds off enough to use 89 octane regularly with 92 every 2nd or 3rd tank (assuming you have worked out the distributor curve for it to work this way)...

-D.Idiot

Thats the next thing i need to learn about, I have a nos electronic dissy just get reading!